I thought about it. Ive never built an h series before. Ive built 1 d16 with vitara pistons.

 

so, i got the valve cover off to check valve lash. And i cant even fit a .002 under the rock arm. Too tight. I read the spec for exhaust valve lash is .008 and intake valve lash is .006 so it looks way off to me. Adjusting them today and try again and re do a conpression test

 

Bent or burnt valves was my issue. Its sucking in air through exhaust. Although it can run now without stalling and idle alot smoother

 

Did you take the head off? How do you know it's burnt valves? Not trying to knock you, just want to know how you came to that conclusion.

 

while researching i came across some info on how to test if you have valves that arent sealing properly from being burnt or bent. What was said is if you put paper, or a paper towel in front of the exhuast and it sucks the paper into the exhaust, then there is a valve problem. And after adjusting the valves to spec, it cleared up my misfire pretty well, and i performed that little test, and it did suck the paper inside the exhaust. From what i read and understand, it should only blow exhaust gas out, it should never suck back into the engine. That's how i came to that conclusion.
in addition to the fact it had bad injectors and the valve lash clearances were tighter than .002 on the exhaust side. The smallest gauge couldnt fit in between it before i adjusted them. And, it had low compression and the motor doesnt show symptoms of it having worn down rings. No smoke or oil burning. Very minimal at high rpm when revving. Which is probably not a bad thing for h22. They burn oil anyway

 

Is this what im looking for or does lower timing cover and balace shaft pulley have to come off to look behind it

 

THats the mark on your crankshaft all right, but yes the cover needs to come off to see the mark it lines up with on the oil pump. You should be able to see a mark on the flywheel as well, lined up with the tooth/ notch in the bell housing.

 

Thats behind the balance shaft pulley. It looked off so i removed the tensioner. Replaced it with a manual tensioner, aligned the crank spot on. But with it right on the dot, the cam gears wont line up. Was it already ok before i took it off.

After adjusting the crank.

 

It was pretty darn close, what do the cams look like?

 

in the first pic, the cam gears lined up perfect, 2nd pic after i turned the crank a little, intake cam is one tooth below exhaust cam. If the crank is spot on, the belt doesnt fit inside the ribs of the pulley on the cams but on top if that makes sense. I dont have a pic to explain im at work right now. Ill mess with it more tonight

 

the "new" engine is in and running. Albeit not 100% yet. Just to close this out. Low compression was the main issue