It's entirely possible your distributor is either fully advanced or fully retarded and needs base ignition timing set. And are you sure there are no codes ?

 

there are no codes showing at all. Timing was advanced fully on the distributor but I tried moving it to the middle but it runs the same. I think the distributor is just bad.
I did stop at the junkyard and I seen some accord distributors will they bolt up to the h22? These were f22 motors. There is a 5th gen prelude but that's obd2. Just trying to see if i have other options before buying a new distributor

 

different coils, same result. I ordered a new td61u distributor offline. Gonna change it out and go from there. Thanks for all the help. I believe somebody said that was their fix too

 

ok. So ima update here now. At this point, I have a new distributor, new plugs, another external coil, and it's still doing the same thing. Ecu is a p13. No cel, when i start the car, it still has a that misfire or miss that makes it sound like a Subaru, it's not smooth it's lumpy. Or choppy. Timing was good and checked by my mechanic. But the ignition system is practically all new in the car now. Is my spark plug wiring wrong? Is Jdm and different as far as hooking up the the spark plug wires? I looked at a diagram on google, a few and I'm still getting t e same thing. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong diagram? I just spent 100 on this distributor plus another 30 on wires and im still having same issue. What else could it possibly be? Fuel filter? Bad injectors? Help please
Als​​​​​​o to add, with the car running there is a strong smell, almost like it's running rich? At least I think so. But it is strong. It doesn't smell like gas, and doesn't smell like coolant which is a sweet smell. I'm leaning towards the injectors but at t is point i feel like I'm just guessing and throwing parts at it. How do I know exactly it can be? I found used h22a1 injectors for 80 dollars online but i want to be surr if i should get them or not

 

So I'm still looking for a little push in the right direction. I took a screwdriver and put it on each injector to listen to see if thry were all firing the same. And they all sound strong and click at the same speed. Any suggestions y'all? I'm still tryna get this thing going I'm missing so many events it sucks not having my car going I'm so close

 

Another cause for misfires is the EGR system. Take off the EGR valve (located to the left of the fuel rail) and clean all the gunk out of it with brake cleaner and a flathead. Look into the ports it was covering up and see if there is substantial carbon buildup. There are 6 EGR plug ports on the intake manifold under the fuel rail. To fully clean the EGR system you must get these plugs out, remove all the carbon buildup and put new plugs back in. It is a pain in the *** but if you haven't done it, it needs to be done. Definitely a source of misdiagnosed misfires.

 

Thanks for the reply. I was working on the car today, changed fuel filter. Same problem. Then i noticed something. A hissing sound coming from the engine bay near the center of the firewall behind the im. Couldnt find any vavcum leaks. Then I took the intake off and throttle body, cleaned it, but noticed the inside of the manifold was wet and smelled like gas? And it left a residue inside the I'm the was grayish black and wet. But the throttle body back, checked the fpr line, and it looks suspiciously wet. I removed it but there was no fuel inside of it. Re installed it, and started it up. Still runs rough. Has a consistent miss. I revd it with the intake tubing off and the intake backfired. I then shut it off. I'm thinking a new fpr might help. I ordered a new fuel pump. Also when reving, only under light throttle will it rev. Under hard throttle, it bogs and back fires. Currently, I'm planning on fpr, fuel pump, and new injectors with o rings. However, I will also check egr ports. But I'm not thinking a bad egr will make it run like it does. I'll update soon. Any other opinions or advice please comment. Thanks guys, I'm going to keep working with it

 

from idle problem thread - but can also fix other issues:

"quick what to do list

usually these things fix bad idle or/and hesitations:

- new spark plugs & wires
- new distributor cap & rotor
- new air/fuel filters
- clean injectors/iacv/egr/fitv
- bleed the coolant
- new pcv
- adjust valves and ignition
- adjust idle from tb's screw and throttle cable
- check does sensors work properly: map, iat and tps (and try calibrating tps)
- then check wires, connectors and hoses

check o2 sensors and vacuum/exhaust leaks (check all the seals - IM/header/TB gaskets, injector seals, maybe even buy valve cover gasket set...)
check timing. after that: double check timing

clogged cat might you give some trouble as well (usually when driving) - check cats condition

those are basic maintenance as well."

 

the vacuum hose for the fpr obviously should have no fuel smel, if it does then replace it

 

Ok. So, so far I've replaced fuel pump with a 340lph. The fpr. Removed iacv and it wasn't dirty but cleaned anyway. Removed egr, it was dirty, thought about blocking it off but I don't want to be driving around with a code. And I'm just waiting for my injectors to be cleaned and flow tested. That should cover my fuel system and ignition and cleaning the Iacv egr and fitv was a suggestion from a member here. One question, the spacers that go into the intake hole for the injectors are plastic. Those shouldn't need replaced should they. I wouldn't think those go bad. But all rubber seals ima change. After I get my injectors back I'll post and let yall know how it runs. Intake is prolly hella dirty but looks like a mf to get off. Don't wanna deal with it.ill do a fuel injection cleaner or something to get the carbon buildup out the intake after I get it running

 

I am going to throw this out there, but have you done a compression check and leakdown test on the engine? I am sort of getting the impression that this car/ setup is new to you, so the condition of the interior could be suspect as well.

 

I haven't done a compression test. But I might have to before I throw anymore money at this. I will do a compression test and post what I get for each cylinder

 

Any updates? I'm trying to track down a misfire on my H23a.

Did you try unplugging the spark plug wires while the car is running? If you unplug one and there is no change in how the car runs, then you know it is definitely something in that cylinder. If this is the case, try swapping a spark plug, plug wire and injector from another cylinder to see if those are your culprits. If you swap something and it stops misfiring in that cylinder, you know which part is bad.

Also wouldn't hurt to do a compression check. The set is $30 at Harbor Freight.

 

Well, here's where I am trying to clear my bogging/consistent misfire issue:
New plugs
New wires
New distributor ​​​
Replaced external coil with known working one
​​​​​Cleaned egr, iacv, fitv, throttle body, fuel rail, fuel injector filter baskets, replaced seals.
New fuel filter
New fuel pump
New fpr
Took a multimeter to injectors, all within 2.5-2.6 ohms
Added fuel injector cleaner to tank
Checked timing
and I'm still having the same issue. I haven't tracked down which cylinder is the problem, at this point it's either 1 or more injectors, or low compression. I'm going to check compression wen I get ahold of a compression tool, and if that's good, then I found a set of injectors online for 150, or injectorRX cleans and flow test injectors for about 100 and I'd have to send them off. I did notice one injector had a broken or cracked pintle cap and a different sized lower injector swap than the rest. But they all look the same, injector wise so I wouldn't know if it's a different rate of flow for that injector or if that's faulty or clogged. I'd guess clogged because the ohm test came out good on all 4, but they all did look ok during visual inspection. I'll be back to update after the compression test. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

Ok so i got 195-180-180-195
And 2 of the injectors looked bad
What would cause and injector to do this? And always wen i pulled one of them out again i noticed it dripping from the tip. Im guessing my compression is ok? So i bought a set of oem injectors from honda. Should be here by end of the week and i pray it solves my issue. They also look dark around the caps? Is that normal?

 

Heat or age, or a combination.

That is a big chance it is your issue, and fueling issues could have washed your cylinders down and caused compression issues as well.

 

so is my compression low? What should my numbers be?
And the new injectors should be here Saturday. 06164-p0f-0000 was the part number iirc. For a h22a1. Id imagine h22a1 and jdm obd1 h22 injectors are the same. Anyway if this isnt it im all out of ideas. All my ignition and fuel system components will be all practically new. If it fixes it ima change the oil since i might have gas that leaked into the pan from the cylinders im sure. Ill update after i get them in and fire her up.

 

www.youtube.com/watch?v=jra2EIqo5eM
I tried posting a video but i guess you csnt on ht. But thats a youtube link and you xan see how it ran before i recently took the injectors out

 

it won't hyperlink if you're on mobile, only on a desktop version of the site so if you're on mobile click on "Request desktop site".

 

Ok so update, injectors came early. Installed them. Got everything in, started her up, she came right on. Sounded alot stronger, revved it, no bogs anymore, however. The "chug a chug a chug a chug" idle is still there. I cant say its a misfire, its more like a.... Idk. Anyways, i removed the spark plugs from cylinders 1-4 while the engine was running, cylinders 2-4 all killed the engine when i pulled them one by one. Cylinder 1, when pulled, the engine still ran , just worse. Also to add, there is a loud hissing i can hear from the engine near the firewall which seems like its coming from by the brake booster area. Somewhere in that area. When the engine cuts off, you hear it distinctively for at least 3 or 4 seconds before it goes away. Leading me to believe there is also a vacuum leak. I got this car knowing it had issues. I have a spare h22a short block to use if need be. My question is, where do i go from here? Idle goes up and down, idles really low when warm. Whats the best way to track a vacuum leak? Should i re do the compression test? I don't see how i could have done it wrong.
No smoke, no overheating, no knocking.

 

new gaskets for intake manifold side or try to tighten the bolts first and see is all the vacuum lines ok

did you get leak test done?

 

i havw not done a leak test. Never dpne one before. Gonna have to figure our how that os done. I did spray carb cleaner all over the vac lines and intake manifold gaskets, nothing out of the ordinary happened.

 

Found my problem. Misfire or chugging was coming from low compression. My friend his compression gauge over and got 80-120-140-80. From dizzy to timing belt. So motor is done. Going to be swapping the motor out

 

Just doesnt make sense. With compression numbers like that, if its the rings it would smoke like hell, and it doesnt. It could be valve problems for sure. Im going to check the valve lash before i tear the motor apart. I was reading if the valve lash is wrong or far off it can cause my symptoms im having. Maybe some of the valves are so far off they dont close all the way. Last thing i can do before i slap a head on my other block and swap.

 

youd have to rebuild that "new" engine also if you want to make it last