I am running a stock JDM B16A with a 5MT in a 1994 Honda Civic EX Coupe. I am looking to change my current motor mounts back to stock. I have some questions about stock mounts and part numbers.

1. Rear T-Bracket Mount

• 50810-ST7-Z00 --> 97-01 Integra Type-R
• 50810-ST7-000 --> Basically all 5MT Integras and CR-V's
• 50810-SR3-030 --> A lot of Civics, and also the Del Sol VTEC w/B16A3

Anyone have any ideas of the differences? They're all from B-series applications (and even some D-series civics), and all should fit the T-bracket that I have but the pricing ranges from about $58 for the Civic/Del Sol mount, to $75 for the Type-R mount to over $100 for the Integra/CR-V mount, so that's why I'm curious. I know Honda used some hydraulic mounts in certain applications and I am wondering if the Integra/CR-V mount is hydraulic while the other two aren't. I am assuming the durometer of the Type-R mount is probably highest. Curious if anyone has any thoughts.

2. Right side transmission mount

• 50805-SR3-900 --> Any 5MT 94-01 Integra (excl. Type-R)
• 50803-SR3-A01 --> 5MT Civic/Del Sol including Del Sol VTEC w/B16A3

Here I think the difference is that the Civic/Del Sol part number is a hydraulic mount while the Integra number is not, just based on price alone ($175 for the -A01 mount vs. $100 for the -900 mount).

3. Left side timing belt mount - NOTE: All numbers below are for 2-post mounts only

• 50820-SR3-J11 --> Certain Civics and Del Sol VTEC w/B16A3
• 50821-SR3-020 --> Early 92-95 models (i.e. 92/93) and all CX hatches 92-95

The -J11 mount is obviously hydraulic because the part catalog says so, while I am assuming the other number is just regular rubber based on being used in the barebones CX hatch trim and only early model year (92-93) civics.

SUMMARY:
Any thoughts on hydraulic vs. regular? I am assuming since the hydraulic mounts are significantly more expensive they are superior at vibration damping. Also, my main questions are about the T-bracket mount above since that's the one I am going to try and replace first.

 

I've had both hydraulic and regular and I can't say there is much of a difference. Honda put one hydraulic mount on the timing side and I really don't see the point in doing so. If they had made all 3 hydraulic then maybe it would have made a difference. Also the hydraulic mounts can rupture during hard clutch usage.

And ask yourself what exactly do you want the mounts to do.

Regular & hydraulic: vibration free with a bit of engine torque during clutch engagement

Poly mounts: vibration with rock-solid clutch engagement


I have run all regular, all poly and my favorite set up was one rear poly mount and L&R regular mounts. Best of both worlds imo

 

Thanks for the helpful reply, especially since you've run so many different combinations. I think I am going to end up running the Type-R spec T-bracket mount (p/n 50810-ST7-Z00) with some combination of regular and/or hydro timing belt + trans mounts. I also have the two torque mounts from a Type-R as well, so this should provide more than adequate setup for my use, which is basically daily driving, occasionally spirited but by no means burnouts and/or hard launches.

So you're saying the only hydraulic mount they ever offered was at the timing belt side?

Thanks again for your insight.

 

To me both are fine. Its more about how deep are your pockets. I sprung for the hardrace kit.

 

***Disclaimer...this is from memory of my own research***

The Type-R had stiffer torque mounts (two front & one rear). The front pair require modification of your frame rails to use. The integra mounts have an integrated metal bumper that mounts flat against the frame rail. In contrast, the Civic mounts don't have this, and instead straddle a bumper that's integrated into the frame rail. If you want to use the integra mounts, you have to chisel/cut the bumpers off both frame rails.

There is even another version of the trans mount on the Type-R (50805-SR3-010). The difference here is it's missing some kind of weight or cover attached to the top on the "900" version. 900 and 010 are the same price. Not sure what makes the A01 Del Sol mount is so crazy expensive.

 

I added just the Hardrace front torque mounts and it turned my car into a vibrating nightmare. Definitely not my style.

 

Really? My civic is fine after a couple months.

 

I see... I took mine off and sold them after a couple days.

 

Wow, really great info here thanks for contributing. I was unaware that the Integra torque mounts would require frame rail modification. That's a shame and a screw-up on my part for not doing more research first. Good news is that I need to have someone fix a broken nut inside the passenger frame rail anyway for the mount so maybe I will just grind off this "bumper" you speak of on both sides and then hit it with some paint to clean it up or something at the same time there's welding or other work going on to fix the nut. I'll take a look at them closer and see what I'm up against but good to know that they won't bolt right up. I wonder if you could cut/modify the Integra mount instead of the frame rail. Could compromise the integrity of the rubber housing though I suppose. I will try and post a picture for comparison if I have a Civic style mount somewhere. Actually, you can see this from the parts catalog online:

INTEGRA (#12 & lower right):


DEL SOL (#13 & #14):


Interesting info about the -010 mount for the Type-R transmission side. When I was doing research I showed that part as discontinued but when I look today it isn't. I must have been looking at the wrong thing. The other interesting tidbit is that this -010 part number also cross-references to the 92-93 Civic CX hatchback, and is ~ $5 cheaper from Honda. So weird some of the applications for these things. As far as the Del Sol mount, I think for the price it's worth avoiding- that thing is too expensive especially given all the other options that work at a cheaper price point.

I looked at the Hardrace stuff but I am worried it is just going to be too much vibration for me as well.

 

Good idea on modifying the R mounts. Since you have everything in hand already, take some time to measure the height of bumper on both the Integra mounts and the Civic frame rail. If the height is the same, then modifying the mount should be fine.

One question though, is the bumper on the Integra mount rubber or steel? If it's made of rubber, then the effect will be quite more harsh if modified and placed agains the steel bumpers on the civic frame. In this case I would say it's better to modify the frame.

 

What do you mean by measuring the height of the bumper? It seems to me that as long as I cut out the metal bar on the R mounts then it should work with the Civic frame rails. Here are a few pictures (R mount left, Civic mount right, both mounts are FR):







To answer the second part of your question, the bumper on the R mounts is metal, not rubber.

 

Don't worry about it. I'm just super **** like that and think of every little stupid detail.

Since the R-Mount's bumpers are metal, cutting them out should work just fine.

 

Haha I hear you. I might try and source some Del Sol VTEC ones, because modifying these seems kind of hacky, although I bet it would work. I don't think the mount (rubber) is connected at all to the metal piece I would remove and I don't think removing the metal would compromise the integrity of the mount since I think it would still rest on the "bumpers" you speak of underneath the Civic's frame rails. It's hard to hack up a perfectly good OEM piece though...

 

Also, in case anyone wants to see this "bumper" on the Civic frame rail that's being mentioned, here's a picture (passenger side):



You can also see a broken bolt and missing nut in one of the mount holes. Depending on what I decide to do to fix the mount holes, I might just have that "bumper" removed to avoid having to modify the R mount frames. I tried finding a picture of the Integra frame rails without the mount attached to see if there is any bumper under there or whether it's just flat. I follow @Built2grind thread (thanks for the picture!!) and remember that he had lots of photos and possibly one of this area. Indeed, after scouring his posts I found this photo, which appears to show that on his 98 Integra R, the frame rails are flat with no raised metal "bumper" portion:





Next question- the bracket that bolts to the transmission for the passenger torque mount.

This post here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post47954089

tells me I can use any 3G Integra w/MT bracket for that spot. But the Del Sol VTEC has a different p/n than the Integra bracket, which is also different than the 99-00 SI bracket:

50843-S04-N10 --> 99-00 SI
50843-SR3-N11 --> Del Sol VTEC w/B16A3
50827-ST7-000 --> Integra

So I think using the Integra mount should work even though I am running a B16 transmission (S4C, specifically)? Does that seem right?

 

SR3 refers to 5th-gen 3-door chassis. S04 refers to 6th gen 4-door chassis. I've seen several times SRx parts get replaced wtih S0x parts. One example is lower ball joints. Either way I'm sure you will be fine with either mount. I definitely have a 97 ITR trans w/ S04 trans mount in my 94 CX Hatchback with the original 94 CX torque mount.

-Sean

 

A rivnut is your friend in this instance.

I broke the nut off inside the frame rail trying to remove the bolt. Had to cut the bolt head off, then use a grabber through the front frame rail hole to pull out the snapped nut and bolt from inside the frame rail.

After that I just used a carbide tip dremel bit and widened the bolt hole enough to accept the rivnut and set the rivnut into place. I also goobered the hole with some hondabond flange sealant (Permatex The Right Stuff) so that the freshly exposed steel is sealed up from water, dirt and salt before riveting the rivnut into place.

Worked perfectly to restore the fastener on the passenger side torque mount.

 

Thanks TomCat. I've been deciding on ruvnut vs. having someone weld the problem. Do you have the special hydraulic rivnut tool or did you make your own rivnut installer? I spent some time in the Jeep world so I am familiar with homemade tools for installing them somewhat. I'd like to retain the factory bolts which I believe are M10x1.25 but I can't find any rivnuts with that thread pitch. Maybe I'll just upgrade to M10x1.50 grade 8 bolts. Should be plenty strong. I've also read about people using some loctite bearing retainer on the rivnut where it pinches the sheet metal so that if you ever have to remove the bolts again it reduces the risk the rivnut spins. I suppose if you install it correctly there's low chance of that anyway but a little loctite can't hurt.

Did you just get the rivnuts locally?

Also I did not know you could access the frame rail from the front. I will have to look at that a little closer next time I have the bumper off.

 

Neither for the tool. I bought the manual tool and rivnuts from Amazon.ca (being in Canada and all.







And yeah, I switched that bolt to M10 x 1.5 as the M10 is a rare beast in 1.25 it seems.

 

I take way too many pictures.. lol. Glad I could help. What you think you see is correct, the frame rails are flat in that area.

 

Was it the same mounts as in this kit ?

Hardrace Motor Mount Kit (2 bolts timing belt side mount) 5pcs /set - 92-95 Civic - 5826 - BuyHardRace.com

I have my motor out to replace the rack in my EH3 and other maintenance, and torque mounts are spent, I was going to replace all 5 with the above kit.

Motor is JDM b16a and EXedy OEM spec clutch

 

No, I had the kit with only the two torque mounts (see link below)...

Hardrace Front Lower Torque Mounts EG EK DC - 5827-B - BuyHardRace.com


If you look close, you'll notice they have a completely different design than the OEM mounts (though it looks similar). The OEM mounts allow a free up-down movement of the center sleeve. That sleeve is surrounded by rubber shaped to provide a progressive contact with metal surround (or the frame-rail bumper for the Civic). The Hardrace mounts have a direct solid rubber connection to the center of the metal cage. This means when you hit the gas, the engine is pulling directly on the rubber instead of rocking and mushing gently into a bumper.

BTW: Just because the center section of your old torque mount has ripped away from the cage on the drivers side torque mount, it doesn't mean your mount is toast. The only part of the drivers side torque mount that counts is the part that makes contact with the center of cage or the frame bumper. Those little rubber arms that always rip do nothing except ease assembly.

The passengers side torque mount is a little different since it has stronger connections to the outer cage fore & aft. If these are splitting, then replacement is probably a wise decision.

 

Today I stumbled upon another interesting bit of information. I had removed a P7J A/C bracket from a CR-V at the local pick-a-part. I couldn't get the mounting nut off the end of the bracket so I took the torque mount with me. This was from a B20 equipped CR-V (obviously). Today I pulled out that torque mount and noticed that even though it was from a B20, it did NOT have the metal bar across the top like the Integra torque mounts. After digging further, it appears that for whatever reason the torque mounts for automatic transmission (AT) equipped Integra's and CR-V's do not have a metal bar across the top, while the manual transmission (MT) mounts do. Here are the P/N:

Driver Integra/CR-V w/AT: 50842-ST0-N81
Passenger Integra/CR-V w/AT: 50841-SR3-984

I have no idea why the AT equipped models received a different p/n than the MT models.

Here's a picture of the driver mount:


For comparison a picture of the Del Sol VTEC mount:


I would imagine these might be as decent of an alternative to the Del Sol VTEC mounts for anyone running a B-series motor in a 92-95 Civic with the "bumpers" on the frame rail. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of the passenger one so for now it seems like all I can confirm is that the driver mount looks virtually identical.

 

Good research! This thread is a solid resource.

 

 

Functionally they are the same. The difference would probably be either how hard the rubber is, or how progressive the impact response is.

BTW: I would love to see someone remove the bumpers on the frame rail. If you go that route, please document it and post images here. :D