what do you mean by you have a CK9? A torch head?

 

You can unscrew a 17 head and put a 9 head on it.
You guys want pedals I dropped my price on them. You can get them here
Miller lincoln everlast ahp

 

What are you guys using for a gas lens setup on a 17 torch? Is the Furick stuff just a big hype?

 

I use a 20 liquid torch. I like the furick cups. I use the 12 and 14. I also use a pyrex gas saver 16 cup. Which is my favorite so far with stainless. Not good for tight spaces though.

Everything depends on you though. I would get some to try and see if you like it.

 

Got to help out at a local Fab shop last week during my regular jobs holiday shutdown. Helped with various tasks and one of which I welded up a set of headers for a Radial Vs. the world Pro-mod. Each primay is 2-3/4" there is a lot of time that went into welding all this up. turned out pretty good .

 

Looks nice!

 

really good job!!

I have a question guys, I'm currently using a really big torch. Is a 26. I would like to try something smaller. What torch do you use? There is a big difference in term of precision?

Thanks!

 

You could try using a stubby gas lens kit on your 26 torch. It really makes it a lot smaller. Here's a link to the one I have, it works very well. There's all kinds of cool stuff on that site, grab a tig finger too if you don't have one already.

https://weldmongerstore.com/collecti...kit-3-32-2-4mm

 

Thanks! yes I already have the tig finger and it is a must I think!

 

Get a 17 torch and cable. Or to go a lot smaller get a 9.
The threaded connection for the power cable on the 9/17 is different than the 26

 

9 caps out at 125amps though iirc, if possible it's better to get a 20. All we use are 20's at work.

 

Depends. Torches can get so hot to hold you drop it although you won't hit the duty cycle of the torch and it depends on how long your welds are
Currently I'm using a ck9 flex torch on AC at 193 amps. The runs are pretty short so it's not an issue at all.

 

Awesome work on the headers. Love seeing different stuff like this in this thread!!!

 

Heres a few things ive been working on lately ..... Evo 8 Front mount turbo kit. S2000 tubo kit, I fabbed up a 3" to 4" exhaust for a friend of mines LS3 240sx.

 

Solid work kr3!

I've not had a chance to do much at home since I dont have a garage anymore but I've been doing smaller projects at work....

 

Also I like the #20 torch we have at work. Way easier to handle then the #26 that comes with the AHP. I am going to upgrade my home setup to a CK9 as soon as I can.

 

I tig welded some BMW E30 suspension stuff for a friend. It got smokey for a bit. Rear arm reinforcement plates on 1st pic and front shock tabs for a sway bar 2nd pic.

 

Not too much to add here. Just been doing a lot of repair work lately at my workplace.


Made a table for lunchtime


A bit of GTAW for a job at my shop

 

Been real slow for me lately. Decided to help my neighbor out with his chopper build with some stainless exhaust tubes. Here are the bases. There going to be running out the front of the bike so pie cuts are needed as much as I hate doing them but should look pretty sweet. Also finished up my grill which works great

 

Got all my exhaust pieces to finish for my hatch. Went to 3" vband and used a vibrant 5" muffler. Just need to make the turn down and add the hanger. Also started on my neighbors bike exhaust

 

nice!!!

 

When welding tubes to a header flange which way will the flange tend to warp? Do the ends pull up or does it bow in the middle? The flange will be bolted to a purge block during welding if that matters.


Here is my offering, an engine mount I welded today:

 

I have not welded a header flange but I would assume it will pull towards the welds.

My experience is with sheet metal fabrication, and this is usually the case when something is not secured in a fixture.

Also things like the direction of your weld can change the way the metal warps.

The order in which you weld your runners will also affect it.
Welding out to center brings the heat towards the center, which would more than likely cause it to bow out in the middle.

Welding center out would allow the middle to cool while the other welds are being completed, and will most likely bow in, in the middle.

YMMV and most likely no matter what the flange will need to be machined.

I know you said it would be connected to a purge block, but will the part be clamped/bolted to a flat surface?
​​​​​

 

I can clamp the purge block to my table if needed (purge block is 3/4" aluminum, table is 1/2" steel, flange is 3/8" SS). Reason I'm asking is that I noticed my flange already has a gap of maybe 1/16" (in the middle) when set on a flat surface. I'd like to try and make any warping from welding work in my favor or at least not compound the gap I already have.

So if I understood you right: Bolt it down with it bowing in the middle away from the purge block, then weld center out, that should tend to reduce the gap?

 

I would clamp it as flat as possible.

A 3/4" AL block is going to act as a heat soak. Weld a section at a time and let it fully cool before continuing.

Is your purge block as wide/long as your flange?