Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Street Build Guidance

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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 10:26 AM
  #26  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by TomCat39
You are not comparing apples to apples here.

LM7 is a 5.3L V8.

And you compare it to a 1.6L inline 4.

That would be like comparing the LS1 to a classic VW beetle motor.

But just for fun, lets break this down. 158 HP to 1.6L The B16A6

Now your engine, 285 HP to 5.8L the LM7. To be in range it should be pushing out 575 HP at least on that 5.8L. But instead it's only getting HALF the HP per liter.

So yes, more HP per liter with the Honda engine. Much more efficient.

Apples to Apples my friend, not Apples to Persimmons.

What I'm curious to see is the Dyno's of NA V8's. I am curious to see how wide the power band is on typical V8's.
You can even expand on that as well, you can buy a J32A3 04-06 Acura TL motor for around 600 bucks. 3.2 Liter V6 with 270hp and 233lbs or get the Type S that has 286hp. You can also get a nice 6 speed trans for this setup. I've seen this swap running 11's N/A in stock form with a few bolt on parts and I think a few guys have been 9's on a stock block forced induction.

Hell my motor is making 550whp per liter, Speed Factory is at about 800hp per liter.

Not sure what the OP is trying to get at but if you want 30mpg and a good daily not sure a 5.3 liter V8 is the best option no matter if the motor is $500 bucks or not.

Last edited by AZ_CIVIC; Feb 28, 2017 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 10:40 AM
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 10:55 AM
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
Hell my motor is making 550whp per liter, Speed Factory is at about 800hp per liter.
Per Liter?

So your motor if it's a 2.0L is making 1100 WHP? And Speed Factory would be 1600 HP on that same 2.0L?

I see I typo'd and jumped the LM7 from 5.3L to a 5.8L hahaha
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 10:58 AM
  #29  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by TomCat39
Per Liter?

So your motor if it's a 2.0L is making 1100 WHP? And Speed Factory would be 1600 HP on that same 2.0L?

I see I typo'd and jumped the LM7 from 5.3L to a 5.8L hahaha
Yes my motor is technically a 1.9 liter and getting very close to the 1100whp mark, Speed Factory is around 1600HP but I am not sure if that is WHP or Crank.
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 11:06 AM
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by MadSc1ent1st
How is comparing the 2 not acceptable they're both engines? What good does HP vs Displacement even prove? You realize that making things bigger doesn't equal a consistent growth in power due to more rotating mass & friction correct?
I'm not so sure. I haven't seen Honda build a V8 5.3L to their max capability.

Being domestic manufacturers said it was impossible to utilize the CVCC technology on the big ol' V8 and Honda turned around and took their motor and did it......

I don't know if Honda could get relatively close to 100 HP per Liter N/A on a big bore V8.

I suspect if they put their minds to it, the 5.3L LM7 would put out close to 495HP maybe even 505-510....

But really, until Honda engineers decide they want to work on the gas guzzling big bore V8...... We won't know.

To me personally, if I'm going for a V8 or bigger it's going to be a Top Fuel as efficiency isn't important, only output. But that's not a street car. Street car with 400-500 HP on 94 pump gas is more than adequate and that's easily done with Honda and still get 30+ MPG doing it if you want. It might not be as cheap as you want but that would be the only downside. But usually, you get what you pay for and imports cost more due to duty and taxes anyway, that's to be expected.

Actually comparing GM 4 bangers to Honda 4 bangers, GM sucks *****:

LQ2
This engine was similar to the LQ5 however it did not use throttle body fuel injection, instead it had a 2-barrel carburetor. This engine was used in the Chevrolet S-10 and GMC S-15 compact pickup trucks and their Blazer and Jimmy counterparts until 1985, when it was replaced by the 2.5 L Tech IV engine. This engine produced 83 hp (62 kW) @ 4600 RPM and 108 lb·ft (146 N·m) @ 2400 RPM.

LQ5
A stroked version of the 1.8 L engine, displacing 2.0 L, was introduced midway through 1982, to provide more low-rpm power for the J cars. This engine replaced the 1.8 L engine altogether and had throttle body fuel injection. It produces 86 horsepower (64 kW).

LM3
For the 1990 model year, GM replaced the 2.0 L engine with a stroked version displacing 2.2 L; with throttle body fuel injection (TBI). Commonly called the 2.2, it produced 95 horsepower (71 kW) and 120 lb·ft (163 N·m) of torque.

L46
The 1.8 L pushrod engine was the first engine to power the J-Body cars. Introduced with the models in 1982, the 1.8 used a 2-barrel Rochester carburetor and produced 88 horsepower (66 kW) at higher rpm. Acceleration in these cars was quite sluggish, with a test 1982 Pontiac J2000 accelerating from 0–60 mph in 16.3 seconds, with a quarter mile (~400 m) time of 20.6 seconds.

LN2
For 1992, the 2.2 received multi-port fuel injection (MPFI) replacing the TBI version in the J-body cars increasing power to 110 horsepower (82 kW) and torque to 130 lb·ft (176 N·m). In the L-body cars it was converted straight to Sequential Fuel injection. In 1994, all 2.2 L engines were updated to sequential multi-port fuel injection and power increased to 120 horsepower (89 kW) with torque increasing to 140 lb·ft (190 N·m). The MPFI and SFI versions produced enough power to allow the 2.2 to replace the old Pontiac Iron Duke engine as the 4-cylinder offering in the S/T platform trucks and A-body cars. For 1996, it became known as the Vortec 2200 in the S/T trucks.

For 1998, the engine was revised for emissions regulations and became known as the 2200; this revision lowered power to 115 hp (86 kW) at 5000 rpm and torque to 135 lb·ft (183 N·m) at 3600 rpm. The engine was discontinued in 2003, replaced by the 2.2 L DOHC Ecotec engine. Although it displaces 134 cu. in, the 2.2 L OHV is still commonly referred to as the GM 122 today, and has been reputed for its simplicity, reliability and ease of maintenance in the J-body cars and S-Series trucks, and a few L-Body cars. The 2003 model LN2 is equipped with secondary air injection.


So yeah, if Honda made a V8, I'm sure it would put GM and their holy grail LS engine to shame. They already smoke the hell out of the equivalent GM inline 4 motors with their inline 4's.

Last edited by TomCat39; Feb 28, 2017 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Apple to Apple comparison.
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 11:51 AM
  #31  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Okay I now understand where your argument was coming from and that was in reference to my original post about the actual "fuel efficiency" so sorry about that, I just know in lighter vehicles with a high set of gear ratios such as an S10/240/rx7 30mpg is easily attainable. Anything over 30 is good enough for me, especially when I can be making 5-600 hp on the stock bottom end without even thinking twice if it was going to survive or not and when it's mated to a stock $300 transmission that will put up with 700 lb ft of torque all day. As far as Maximum efficiency I would love to see how much your "550 hp per liter" cost.

Last edited by MadSc1ent1st; Feb 28, 2017 at 11:53 AM. Reason: Edit: ^and your torque numbers since everyone decides to not mention those on the Honda forums.
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 12:41 PM
  #32  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by MadSc1ent1st
Okay I now understand where your argument was coming from and that was in reference to my original post about the actual "fuel efficiency" so sorry about that, I just know in lighter vehicles with a high set of gear ratios such as an S10/240/rx7 30mpg is easily attainable. Anything over 30 is good enough for me, especially when I can be making 5-600 hp on the stock bottom end without even thinking twice if it was going to survive or not and when it's mated to a stock $300 transmission that will put up with 700 lb ft of torque all day. As far as Maximum efficiency I would love to see how much your "550 hp per liter" cost.
$1300 bucks to have it Golden Eagle Sleeved, O-ringed, bead blasted, bored and honed.
$700 bucks for Turbo Tuff Rods
$550 for CP pistons
$150 or so for bearings
stock crank, stock oil pump and water pump.
Block itself cost me $150 because it had a spun rod bearing.
So $2850 bucks for a block that is good for 1000WHP plus.

If we were comparing same power per liter potential for your 5.3 you need to be making 2900whp to be comparable to my motor and I would be interested to see what the costs would be to make that happen.

Now if you are looking at platform as in FWD vs. RWD hands down I will give it to the RWD cars. I mean 1100 WHP in my car vs. 1100 WHP in a Fox Body Mustang both of us utilizing good components I am sure I would get beat in the 1/4 mile.

At this point in time I am ok with having a mid 8 second car.
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 10:15 AM
  #33  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
$1300 bucks to have it Golden Eagle Sleeved, O-ringed, bead blasted, bored and honed.
$700 bucks for Turbo Tuff Rods
$550 for CP pistons
$150 or so for bearings
stock crank, stock oil pump and water pump.
Block itself cost me $150 because it had a spun rod bearing.
So $2850 bucks for a block that is good for 1000WHP plus.

If we were comparing same power per liter potential for your 5.3 you need to be making 2900whp to be comparable to my motor and I would be interested to see what the costs would be to make that happen.

Now if you are looking at platform as in FWD vs. RWD hands down I will give it to the RWD cars. I mean 1100 WHP in my car vs. 1100 WHP in a Fox Body Mustang both of us utilizing good components I am sure I would get beat in the 1/4 mile.

At this point in time I am ok with having a mid 8 second car.
Are you ******* retarded? Once again... Liter vs Horspower literally means nothing, how much torque are you putting out? Also, there are stock bottom end Gen iii and Gen iv Chevrolet engines running mid 8s on $300 stock bottom ends or as you call them "blocks" so it's cute you spent that much money on your engine.

In reference to TomCat how about you compare your engines to other manufacturers that are actually attempting to build sports engines, for instance the newest turbo Type R engine vs a 2008 Chevrolet Stage 1 2.0 turbo, or the 2004 Mopar Stage 3 2.4 turbo, or the newest VW engine, or the newest Focus RS engine.
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 10:35 AM
  #34  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by MadSc1ent1st
In reference to TomCat how about you compare your engines to other manufacturers that are actually attempting to build sports engines, for instance the newest turbo Type R engine vs a 2008 Chevrolet Stage 1 2.0 turbo, or the 2004 Mopar Stage 3 2.4 turbo, or the newest VW engine, or the newest Focus RS engine.
I was looking for an apples to apples comparison.

Comparing a 4 cylinder that is limited in displacement to a V8 which does not have such limitation is apples to oranges.

So the way I see it, my comparison of the turbo diesel to the GM V8 stands and the GM V8 sucks ***** in comparison, their both engines, right?

I'd gladly like to compare all 4 cylinders together regardless of MFG. That's exactly my point.

You were comparing 8 cylinders to 4 cylinders and saying it's a fair comparison.

Where you have a point is price point, which I already covered, domestic's in the USA are a dime a dozen, imports are not. Much like how the VW beetle was back in the day. Or the next super common car in the salvage yards is going to be the Mazda 3 etc etc.

Now I am going to ask once, please refrain from dropping to a 12 year old mentality and start name calling. Lets keep this a civil conversation even when in disagreement.

Thanks.

Last edited by TomCat39; Mar 1, 2017 at 11:54 AM. Reason: typo correction
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 10:41 AM
  #35  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by MadSc1ent1st
Are you ******* retarded? Once again... Liter vs Horspower literally means nothing, how much torque are you putting out? Also, there are stock bottom end Gen iii and Gen iv Chevrolet engines running mid 8s on $300 stock bottom ends or as you call them "blocks" so it's cute you spent that much money on your engine.

In reference to TomCat how about you compare your engines to other manufacturers that are actually attempting to build sports engines, for instance the newest turbo Type R engine vs a 2008 Chevrolet Stage 1 2.0 turbo, or the 2004 Mopar Stage 3 2.4 turbo, or the newest VW engine, or the newest Focus RS engine.
Of course liter vs. horsepower doesn't really matter. Just like comparing a 5.3 liter V8's to a 1.6 liter 4 cylinder doesn't matter. Who really gives a **** if you can find a motor for $500 bucks that is 285hp, I gave you an example of a comparable V6 Honda motor with the same damn power that can be had at a junk yard for $500 bucks.

So what is your point? Why come on a Honda forum pretending your looking for advice on a Honda if your intention is to talk **** about how you can build an 8 second Chevy S10 with a $300 dollar motor.

Why come on here talking about a 30mpg 300 horsepower Honda if you are so hung up on junk yard Chevy motors? I read the same damn article you did with the budget built 5.3 liter motor on the China Turbo. I mean if an 8 second domestic only costs $500 dollars I sure as **** wonder why I never see them at the track when I'm racing. When I do see an 8 second or faster domestic they aren't running some junk yard built setup.

This is the type of BS that always strikes a nerve with me...I love import AND domestic vehicles especially when they are built right and go fast. However there is always the guy who reads an article who knows it all, the guy who talks **** because he has a friend of a friend who knows a guy who's wife is friends with a guy who has a fast car.

I at least can say I have an 8 second car no matter what it cost, can you?
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 06:14 PM
  #36  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
Of course liter vs. horsepower doesn't really matter. Just like comparing a 5.3 liter V8's to a 1.6 liter 4 cylinder doesn't matter. Who really gives a **** if you can find a motor for $500 bucks that is 285hp, I gave you an example of a comparable V6 Honda motor with the same damn power that can be had at a junk yard for $500 bucks.

So what is your point? Why come on a Honda forum pretending your looking for advice on a Honda if your intention is to talk **** about how you can build an 8 second Chevy S10 with a $300 dollar motor.

Why come on here talking about a 30mpg 300 horsepower Honda if you are so hung up on junk yard Chevy motors? I read the same damn article you did with the budget built 5.3 liter motor on the China Turbo. I mean if an 8 second domestic only costs $500 dollars I sure as **** wonder why I never see them at the track when I'm racing. When I do see an 8 second or faster domestic they aren't running some junk yard built setup.

This is the type of BS that always strikes a nerve with me...I love import AND domestic vehicles especially when they are built right and go fast. However there is always the guy who reads an article who knows it all, the guy who talks **** because he has a friend of a friend who knows a guy who's wife is friends with a guy who has a fast car.

I at least can say I have an 8 second car no matter what it cost, can you?
My intentions were to test the waters with the Honda platform to see if it was the best bang for the buck, it was not. Now my intentions are to properly educate you "gearheads". I've read the sloppy mechanics article of the junkyard builds and those aren't my style. I will however buy a salvage Silverado that was wrecked (Because the engine was still running see how that works?) for much better, more reliable, and cost effective engine platform. I do not have an eight second car, mostly due to the fact I'm not willing to waste money before doing research.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 05:57 AM
  #37  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

MORE RELIABLE... LOL
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 06:44 AM
  #38  
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 06:55 AM
  #39  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by DWP_Racing
MORE RELIABLE... LOL
In a modified application? Absolutely! My money would be on Honda stock vs stock for making it to 500k miles, but mainly due to the less rotating components and drastically less stress due to power. However, by increasing displacement you can maintain a compression ratio that is safe and prevents detonation while not pushing the stress limits too far. Your engines aren't the only ones that are siamese bore from the factory, AND the Gen iii and Gen iv sbc are 6-bolts mains for god sake. You have to build your bottom ends, and once it comes apart 99% it will never go back together as well as it was assembled from the factory.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by DumpdEJ6

Sure seems like someone should... ^ The "Mobile Mechanic" starter kit. Honda guys can't even talk **** without getting roasted?
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:05 AM
  #41  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by MadSc1ent1st
My intentions were to test the waters with the Honda platform to see if it was the best bang for the buck, it was not. Now my intentions are to properly educate you "gearheads". I've read the sloppy mechanics article of the junkyard builds and those aren't my style. I will however buy a salvage Silverado that was wrecked (Because the engine was still running see how that works?) for much better, more reliable, and cost effective engine platform. I do not have an eight second car, mostly due to the fact I'm not willing to waste money before doing research.
Yet you were willing to waste money buying a new 2016 WRX just to sell it a year later? I would like to know how you reading articles is going to properly educate me? Trust me, I understand there are a lot of different platforms for Drag Racing and RWD is an excellent choice. However, I personally like the styling and look of an EK coupe and that is what I chose to work with.

One thing I really think you fail to realize, mainly because your experience consists of reading magazines and articles is the true cost of building any platform correctly. So you go and buy a Silverado for the engine, do you even have a vehicle to put the motor in? Do you think you're going to just drop that motor in and not have to modify it in anyway? You plan on running a turbo? What are your plans on making power or do you just assume that putting a Silverado motor in an S10 will instantly make it fast?

Either way, good luck on whatever your plans are and hopefully you don't end up like the other 99% of guys who have all these big intentions and get nothing done.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:21 AM
  #42  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by MadSc1ent1st

Sure seems like someone should... ^ The "Mobile Mechanic" starter kit. Honda guys can't even talk **** without getting roasted?

I give help on things I have experience with, and ask for help on things I don't. That's sort of the point of the forum. You, however, come in asking for help, then start bashing the entire marque that the site is based on. Here's an idea, if you don't want a Honda, then hows about you go find a forum that is dedicated to whatever it is you've decided you want. The problem isn't that you don't like Hondas, trust me, no one cares what you like. The problem is your dumb-***, father-knows-best shitty attitude. Oh, you know nothing about Hondas and need advice? 3 days later you're an expert who's gonna "educate us"? LMAO miss me with that bullshit.

Oh and I'm flattered you'd go to all the trouble to look up my previous posts. No need to look at the one in this thread where I took time out of my day to help you out with engine choice possibilities...
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:43 AM
  #43  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
Yet you were willing to waste money buying a new 2016 WRX just to sell it a year later? I would like to know how you reading articles is going to properly educate me? Trust me, I understand there are a lot of different platforms for Drag Racing and RWD is an excellent choice. However, I personally like the styling and look of an EK coupe and that is what I chose to work with.

One thing I really think you fail to realize, mainly because your experience consists of reading magazines and articles is the true cost of building any platform correctly. So you go and buy a Silverado for the engine, do you even have a vehicle to put the motor in? Do you think you're going to just drop that motor in and not have to modify it in anyway? You plan on running a turbo? What are your plans on making power or do you just assume that putting a Silverado motor in an S10 will instantly make it fast?

Either way, good luck on whatever your plans are and hopefully you don't end up like the other 99% of guys who have all these big intentions and get nothing done.
However, I personally like the styling and look of an EK coupe and that is what I chose to work with

That's what I'm ******* saying! And that is completely fine. I'm not trying to "educate" anyone in a disciplinary action, but I am throwing out heavily debated subjects upon which I have citations to back every single argument I ever make. My experience consists of more than just articles, it dates back to the 30+ products I have engineered that are used in top tier international races. I know what bullshit articles are, and I know when people are spitting out complete lies to attempt to justify their "opinions" vs my facts, but sometimes you have to intentionally grind some gears to get the answers you really want. This would be Phase 1 of my daily S10, I split it up into phases so that I could daily drive it between major modifications in case I ran into problems.


I still have no clue what I'm going to do at this point in time, but Ill post back once it's done. Good luck this race season.

P.S. The Subaru is already worth more than what I owe, they're definitely a great investments... They're just slow investments.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 07:57 AM
  #44  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

So you're an engineer and have created over 30+ products that are used in international racing. I would like to see your website with the parts you make, and the race cars your parts are currently running on.

Post up some pics of the products your created. Everyone likes to see good fab products, I know I do, if you don't mind post up you website so I can read up on some the cool stuff you're creating.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 08:08 AM
  #45  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
So you're an engineer and have created over 30+ products that are used in international racing. I would like to see your website with the parts you make, and the race cars your parts are currently running on.

Post up some pics of the products your created. Everyone likes to see good fab products, I know I do, if you don't mind post up you website so I can read up on some the cool stuff you're creating.
I choose not to affiliate my employers to myself, as I tend to be a Dick and that would poorly represent those companies and that's not fair to them. However, of all the products I have designed only a few are used in top tier racing the rest have been affordable bolt-on aftermarket products.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 08:12 AM
  #46  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
Post up some pics of the products your created. Everyone likes to see good fab products, I know I do.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 08:40 AM
  #47  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

Originally Posted by MadSc1ent1st
I choose not to affiliate my employers to myself, as I tend to be a Dick and that would poorly represent those companies and that's not fair to them. However, of all the products I have designed only a few are used in top tier racing the rest have been affordable bolt-on aftermarket products.
Understandable, how about the aftermarket bolt-on parts you've created, post some pictures, you don't have to list who you work for but post some pictures of the products themselves.

We have a fabrication section, people post their stuff all the time.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 08:51 AM
  #48  
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Default Re: Street Build Guidance

It's really going to sounds like I'm bullshitting here, but the only images available are on our for sale website. Phones are a big no-no in our shop to prevent prototypes in progress from getting leaked, and are grounds for terminition.
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 08:53 AM
  #49  
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I could post some pictures of my projects/3D printed parts later tonight though.
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Old Mar 3, 2017 | 03:54 PM
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