jhonmoche

Ok i have Honda Civic 1999 LX .manual . i am really not good with cars so please bare with me . i did some checks and tests following YouTube videos . so i have no fuel pressure i think the pump is good because i have put in a good pump and it didn't work . so i put my old one back in . and i did spray a starter spray into the air what ever it is under the air filter . and the car did start momentarily . so i know there is spark . i guess . i checked the fuses while the key is on position and i found out that there is some fuses that don't receive power . It was super cold outside . so i might be off on a fuse or two . but here is the list of fuses that don't have power . 4-5- -21-22-30-32. ok another clarification as i was trying to diagnose the problem i accidentally allowed the hot bolt (positive )on the starter to touch the ground and caused a huge loud spark . so i dont know if those fuses went out before the short or after the short . i found the number 27 fuse broke . so i changed it . so please help . Part 1 -Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box (1996-2000 1.6L Honda Civic)

jhonmoche

sorry i am really confused too . just to add i did check the hazard light and he front lights and they are working properly . except the turn signal lights they are not working .
so i will need to recheck the fuses again .

jhonmoche

Ok i just checked the wires going to the main relay while the key is on the on position . one of them doesn't have power . and i checked it with a working main relay and the car still didn't start so i don't think the main relay it self is the problem . so where do i go from here ? fuel pump is good . main relay is good .

CX-Adam

Your car cranks but doesn't start.
You think you have spark.
You don't think you have fuel pressure.


Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel filter? Prime the pump, remove the key, disconnect your battery, and loosen the banjo bolt of the fuel filter just a small amount. Does fuel leak out?
Spraying starter fuel into your intake manifold doesn't test if your fuel injectors are open. If you've pressure in at the fuel filter, test to see if you've a constant 12V signal to your injectors with the key in the ON position (push your multimeter into the side with the yellow wires).
If you've fuel pressure and 12V at the injectors, check the ground circuit between the injectors and the ECU.

jhonmoche

Thank you for your help my friend . Ok i did follow your instructions . first when i started the car it cranked and almost wanted to start so i did couple of times the car just cranks .I checked the fuel at fuel filter and it did leak a little . which is the first time it did that . so checked the yellow wire voltage in the injector and no voltage even tho i had voltage there before . so that is why i am getting confused . there is fuel at the filter and no voltage to the injector .

jhonmoche

sorry it was not done right . there is 11.5 voltage in the yellow wire with good ground . is that enough ?

CX-Adam

That sounds a little low but I'm not sure if it'd be the cause of the problem. Do you have another battery that you know is good that you could swap in and test?

jhonmoche

there is a Honda CRV . can i use the battery from it ? i did jump it from the CRV while it was running but it didn't start .

CX-Adam

12V is 12V

Step through the information in the following links and tell use where you get hung up.
FAQ: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tions-1998336/
Basic crank no start: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...2A%2A-1992733/

jhonmoche

i ma really sorry to be late . ok I still have spark . but i did recheck the lines going to the injector with a test light . i don't think i have have ground going to the injectors . i poked the yellow positive wire with my test light while grounding the other end . it lit red led light . but when i poke the brown ground wire and having the other end in the positive on the battery . it supposed to lit green led light . but it didn't at all . which means it doesn't have ground am i correct ?

CX-Adam

You're partially correct.

The ECU sends the ground signal to the injector. When the ECU grounds the injector, the injector opens and lets fuel in. When the ECU removes the ground signal, the injector closes. So, the Injectors shouldn't have a constant ground. Sending 12V to the ground wire won't show conductivity because the ECU is in the middle of the circuit and it's saying "don't open."

You can download the Factory Service Manual for free. You just need to search for it. Step through the PGM-FI procedure(s). Here are the pages from the 1996-2000 Civic Manual for the PGM-FI section. If these don't help, we'll move on to another section.

jhonmoche

You are right i just checked the injectors and there is a pulsating signal to the ground . and jumped the car again with full battery still didnt start . My car is not a1999 sorry again . it is a 1998 . LX i will do all the main relay testing when i get back . i am heading to the junk yard . so what would you recommend me to bring from there ? i ma thinking another main relay . should i bring the ECU ? any other relays ??? any thing that could help make the diagnosis much easier ???

jhonmoche

Ok i just got back from the junk yard and i used the third main relay . it almost looks brown new . it clicks an everything . but the car doesn't start . i brought with me an ECU . and the top numbers match but the bottom number don't match . i am very nervous about plugging it before you give me the green light . ok it from a 98 civic ex . when i did my reseach online it said i can use the ecu only from the same year 98 civic ex . lx . dx .hx . so what you think i should do . also i found a broken ground that i fixed but it didn't make any difference . in the front between the engine body and the front of the car driver side . the numbers that match are 37820-P2E-C13 the ones that doesn't match are 1110-31432 that is the one on my car . and the one i bought is 1110-106225

jhonmoche

Ok as of this morning i have good spark on all four wires . power and ground received at the injectors ( i checked the continuity in the injectors before . i could check them again if recommended or any other checks on the injectors ) . used both relays . used the new ECU . still no start . checked the ground on thermostat and it is good . please help . i am running out of time . and i am in the middle of many things that hit me at once like a ton of bricks . should i go ahead with the Mian relay tests mentioned above any way ? and if so which numbers i go by . there is two sets of numbers just on that page itself . should i use the numbers on the main relay picture or go by the numbers on the electrical diagram below it . thank you my Friend i really appreciate you help

jhonmoche

CX-Adam thank you i did the tests you suggested on both Main Relays they turned out to be fine . and then proceeded to check the Main relay connector . and i didn't find voltage between # 2 terminal and the ground . the solution suggested is to check the fuse number 13 according to this diagram Part 1 -Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box (1996-2000 1.6L Honda Civic) . im not sure if i fits my Civic 1998 LX . so checked that fuse for the million time and there is power going through it from both ends . the other solution is to fix the short?Open in the wire between main relay connector and the fuse # 13 . how can i do that any ideas suggestions or instructions diagrams or anything thank you . if that is the right fuse ? i am thinking to just run a wire from the # 2 pin in the main relay and the Fuse .but i am not sure if that is good idea or a no no . the voltage i have in the working connections are just 11.5 v . but i did jump the car many times with a good battery . or could it be a problem of voltage drop ???

CX-Adam

:Let me see if I can find the diagram that shows the plug between the fuse you're talking about and the main relay. You may have the same problem I had where a pin in the plug popped out and isn't making a connection. I'll also post a few other flow charts. Give me a minute or, two.

Autozone will test a battery for free if you're unsure if the battery is good. But, the FSM says 9.6V or greater is ok.

CX-Adam

Two Questions:
1. Have you done a compression test?
2. Is the check engine light on?

CX-Adam

Looks like Fuse 13 is under dash. There should be a direct connection between it and the PGM-FI Main Relay. To answer your question, yes. You could directly connect the PGM-FI Main Relay to the fuse to test it. Here's the diagram.

CX-Adam

Not sure if these'll help. Here are the other PGM-FI diagrams in the FSM.

jhonmoche

Ok thank you so much my friend for all the diagrams and your time i really appreciate it . it is snowing very hard right now . I have never done a compression test i will find videos on how to do it . the check engine light it is not on . when i pull the codes by a short in the double pin connector . the SRS flush only once . it disappear and then it reappear i am not sure if that is a code . or is it a code Zero ? the CEL just disappear . Could that wire from fuse 13 to pin #2 be controlled by the ECU in any way ? is that a good permanent fix to run a new wire from fuse 13 to #2 ? or is there a better fix ? and how ? what you think if i hot wire the pump through a relay and connect it to an existing unnecessary fuse that just gets power when the car turns on . merry Christmas my friend .

jhonmoche

I don't think i can do a compression test . i don't have the tools . i will test the pump when the snow slows down .

jhonmoche

Ok i think from looking at that diagram i had a false diagnosis .according to the test i check the connection #2 on the main relay connector while starting the car and depressing the clutch . but the new diagram you posted . on the page 23-69 . it chows that fuse 13 is activated when the ignition switch i on the IG1 position . does that make my test result wrong ??? i thought it should be activated at the start position according to the test .

jhonmoche

I was wrong the solution is to check the connection between the connector #2 and the fuse # 31 starter fuse . i will try again tomorrow

jhonmoche

I think i screwed that car . I allowed two guys to work on it now it is much worst . I dont blame them they tried to help the best they could . any way i found a missing fuse so i put back . and i checked the wires again there is voltage going to pump still wont turn on and the voltage in most all the right places they must had done something right . then i hot wired it and the pump did turn on but the car wont start . when i know it did start twice with the starter fluid like a champ before . everything in place but still wont start . the sound now from it is horrible . it used to crank really nicely . and i can see the motor turning smoothly . but now it is barely turning with some weird sound almost like it is jammed . i hope i didn't kill the motor or the starter . any ideas ? i am ready to just keep the pump hot wired which i should had done in the first place I just need it for one last trip . and i will scrap it . i cant afford to buy another car .

CX-Adam

Any updates?

Post in paragraphs, please. It's hard to answer tons of questions when there's so many in a single block of text.

I don't know why HT doesn't host the manuals. Here's a link:L http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/downloads.php