LeeMajors19082

Wednesday, June 1st is the dyno appt. fellas! After sorting out the turbo drainage issue, breather tank setup, and wideband voltage offset and grounds, I FINALLY went today and got my inspection done and rescheduled my dyno time! Just wanted to thank everyone that's helped with suggestions and input and I especially want to thank Wagnasty from Honda-Society for ALL the help and time he's given me on this build. I couldn't have done it without you bro...Thank you. And of course TheShodan for all your help, along with MAD_MIKE, GhostAccord, and a few others I'm sure I'm forgetting (my apologies to anyone I forgot to name) Thanks to ALL of you, I genuinely appreciate all of your help. I know I've been saying I'll get vids up.... I'm giving my word now, that I'll post vids of the dyno session in 2 weeks time. And we'll see what kind of power we can squeeze from her before the cheapo manifold starts causing us a road-block!

LeeMajors19082

Is anyone out there running a similar setup to mine? And if so what size spark plugs are you using? Right now my boost cut is still set @3psi and the plugs I'm running are only one size colder than stock... can anyone give me a good estimate on what size plug gap I should be using before I head to the tuner next week? Thx in advance

LeeMajors19082

well.... I'm VERY sorry to report that we still don't have any legit power numbers And before I get into specifics, lets just say I made a very bad decision due to my impatience and I should've gone to Derek @Innovative MotorWorks in Carlisle, PA.. All that aside, after 5+ hours on the dyno I drove home w/o a complete tune So I can only assume it will be quite some time before I make my way back onto a dyno but in the meantime I will try to keep everyone updated on whats going on. And as always thx to everyone that's been following this build

TheGageinator

Following this build, as I hope do the same. Just got a spare f22 to build up. That sucks about your tune. Hope you get it figured out soon. You are using a p28 on Neptune right?

LeeMajors19082

Sry bro I completely missed this^^^ I appreciate the reply and to answer your question yes I'm using Neptune on basically a P28 (it was converted from P06)

And, I don't want to get my hopes up after my last experience but hopefully I'll have my tune sorted out on Monday..?

LeeMajors19082

This is just a small update... as some of you may know I've been having a heck of a time chasing down a fuel/ignition cut issue, so currently the engine still isn't fully tuned. Right now it won't rev past 5000rpm (usually won't go past 4600rpm) which of course really blows because THAT'S WHERE ALL THE POWER IS! Lol! Anywho, as of now the car's making 214wtq @4375rpm and 200whp @4980rpm on 8psi which I can't really bitch about considering the circumstances... BUT I built this to do MORE! So today I finally got a small package which contained a few thing's that were recommended to me to try and get this issue sorted out so here they are:

A set of NGK "Blues" (HE73's)



A set of NGK Iridiums



And this came last week... A completely rebuilt/remanufactured Hitachi Distributor (No longer available bnib from Honda).






Also just a quick note about these distributors^^^: the Hitachi dist on the 94-95 Accord EX has a different ignition coil spec than ALL the other distributors for the Accord. So IF you own a 94-95 Accord EX, and you happen to be having distributor issues, make sure that you're getting the right replacement part/parts for it.

CRZ1

OP last year said (in #6) " I'm doing the same build log over on HS' website" What is the url for HS?

Thanks!

LeeMajors19082

LeeMajors' HS build log.... - Page 5 - HondaSociety Web Community

h1ghboost

how are you running your intercooler piping? through which ports on the subframe?

LeeMajors19082

I'll have to take some pics for you but I basically took the path of least resistance. So passenger side I go straight through the hole for the original air-box and on the driver's side right behind the headlight there's a similar hole (a bit smaller) and you have to reposition, or completely remove, the windshield washer fluid reservoir.

LeeMajors19082

Okay, so recently someone brought it to my attention that I had never posted any engine bay pics of the build once it was complete and I really don't know how I dropped the ball on that one but I'm going to fix it now. I will also add basically all the pics I forgot to add after I got the motor back in the car. So I'll start with the process of routing/test fitting the charge pipes and intercooler, and then some completed bay pics, and lastly a small interior update. So here they are:






























There's been some changes to the PCV/Catch-can setup since these pics were taken. I'll try to get some up-to-date pics taken this week and post them right away.









My interior was absolutely horrendous! Tbh it still kind of is but it's much MUCH better than it was before, as you can see. It's still a work in progress but I finally had a chance to clean the carpets and add the 96-97 (4-way adjustable) power seat and nice passenger seat, so I jumped on it last week.



















Also, I found these while I was going through my pics. Unfortunately I never did a build log on my system, but I always talk about it and just thought maybe some of you would be interested? I built a trunk-wall/"Pony-wall", completely sealed off from the trunk, with a forward firing upward ported 4.5cuft (after displacement) box tuned to 30hz w/8in diameter round port. The sub is a XSv2 15in wired @.35ohm (nominal) running on a single Crescendo 5k. 2 Group 31's relocated to the rear, tons of 3/0 cable, Singer Alt, Hertz mids/highs, Pioneer deck, etc...etc... All this extra weight is part of what motivated me to boost the F-series Anyway, here's some pics from when I was building the box and basically how it looks now:














test fit

LeeMajors19082

Well gentlemen I know it's been awhile but not a while lot has changed im still chasing this rev issue so im still tuned on very low boost (8psi) but overall she still runs great im narrowed the Rev problem down to either the alternator or the fuel injector resistor box, but I'm leaning more towards the alt. There's a very significant drop in voltage (hence the battery light coming on) just as it begins to break up around 5k RPM it's going from 14.6v - 14.8v all the way down to 13.2v - 13.5v (which is about my resting voltage) so im pretty sure it the alternator im running. Not a bad alt under any other circumstances but I just don't think that when Mike Singer was building it he had any intention of it being in a boosted Honda? So for any of you that may be running a high output alt, to power a large system or extra battery bank, and planning to boost your engine this might be something to consider...? I'm pretty sure the smaller alt pulleys used on those types of alternators aren't really intended to spin up to recline? I think before I swap out the entire alt I'll first try putting on an OEM pulley and see what happens?

In other news... today I sheared my axle from my half shaft! Sitting at a light on a very slight incline, light turned green, put it 1st and let off the clutch, and KERRRPLUUNNNK!!!? I literally heard the axle hit the ground... and she just revved. So yea... i thought the OEM axles had more ***** than that but maybe it's time to look into other options? I mean I'm only making around 220lbft of torque and that's at like 4k rpm!? Maybe it was just old and on its way out in the first place?.. who knows? Anyway, here's a few pics:

LeeMajors19082

Okay so I'm having to revisit this because the issue of not being able to rev past 5000rpm has yet to be resolved. let's go through a checklist of what's been checked/replaced since the beginning:
ECU/Tune (checked)
Distributor (replaced)
Plugs (replaced)
Plug wires (replaced)
Starter (replaced)
All Ground wires (checked and some replaced)
MAP sensor (replaced)
Resistor pack (replaced)
Speed sensor (replaced)
Alternator (replaced)
And after all this the only thing that's changed is that A) the battery light no longer comes on as it happens and B) There's no voltage drop (it used to drop down to resting batt voltage). Aside from those 2 things the issue remains the same... Fuel cuts out right around 5k or in other words the A/F gauge goes completely lean and the engine breaks up. I can't rev thru it but it's also NOT like bouncing off of a rev limiter.
So what's left?... Fuel pump? Injectors? Fuel pressure regulator? I need some more help here fellas... thx in advance
Oh and on a side note I'm using a Walbro 255hp and it's LOUD which, to my understanding, is normal. But especially after long trips it seems excessively loud and definitely MUCH louder than when it's just staring out. Could the pump cause this type of an issue? Or am I just grabbing at straws here?

Kevin Buckway

so my friend just did his tune on his brz and we put a high flow fuel pump in his. It wouldn't hurt to try.

LeeMajors19082

The rev issue has been resolved!!! FINALLY!!! I can't say for sure but I'm about 99.9% certain that it was the alternator that caused/fixed it. The reason I can't say with absolute certainty is because my cluster is broken, and since replacing the alt it still appeared to be cutting out at the same RPM (minus the Battery light)... as it turns out though, once I connected to Neptune and took some datalogs, I found that I was actually revving out to nearly 6200rpm! So bottom line is the problem has been resolved and I've got a date with the dyno on the 21st!!! I'm shooting for anywhere between 300-350hp to the wheels and hopefully over 300wtq.

Also, the moral of the story here is: If you have the capability to datalog, and you're troubleshooting an issue, MAKE USE OF YOUR RESOURCES! Don't be an idiot like me and not use that capability! I should've been taking logs after EVERY single change and adjustment no matter how small or seemingly insignificant! But instead I was trusting my 22yr old tachometer to tell me if I'd fixed it!? I never felt so ridiculous as I did the other day after finally connecting my laptop and realizing that my rev issue had BEEN resolved! Smh....

LeeMajors19082

I'll be updating the thread with dyno graphs and Hp/Tq numbers as soon as there in. In the meantime I was in desperate need of a breather/catch tank to deal with blow-by and a good amount of crankcase pressure (so much that it was blowing oil past the VC seal while in boost!?) so me being the penny pincher that I am I made my own in garage with some leftover 3in exhaust tubing, old turbo -AN fittings, and numerous other odds and ends. So I've included some pics of those. And then a bit more detailed pics of a NO-Weld method for adding -10AN bungs to your valve cover. I MAY wind up doing an entire DIY write up on exactly how I did it, but I first need to verify that there isn't already one out there? Iirc; while researching it, and trying to find the right fittings to do it, I was unable to find any info on a NO-WELD setup so I just want to dbl check before writing up and starting an entire thread. As a matter of fact AFAccord's build log was the only place I even found PICS of how it looked under the baffle and where to place the bungs and even there it was very briefly discussed. So anyway..... here it is:
These are 3 piece/chamber tanks. The middle has the main baffle material (stainless brillo), the top has an air filter material (charcoal filter), and the bottom is just a drainage tank (with a 5/16 nut welded on and plugged w/bolt and rubber washer, for emptying it)

I forget the size of these fittings?...maybe 3/4in npt? Whatever it is, it fits VERY snuggly into -10AN stainless hose from Vibrant.

Here you can see the stainless scouring pad material used in the main baffle chamber.

Stainless mesh for top

And here I just used zip-ties to hold each of the tanks together, which made it much easier to mount them on the firewall

LeeMajors19082

And now the NO-WELD -10AN bungs:

9/64 drill bit for pilot holes

10-24 tap for replacing the baffle plate

3/8in screws for the baffle plate


-10AN to 7/8-14 fuel fitting with rubber O-rings
(could've gone smaller on the 7/8 side but wanted to be sure of full -10AN flow)


7/8-14 aluminum jam nuts

Die grinder w/sanding disc to remove the rivets on baffle plate


7/8in hole bit to drill out the holes for the -AN fittings

Reference pic to show holes for fittings vs holes in baffle plate
VERY IMPORTANT: you can not put the fittings in the same chambers that the holes in the baffle plate feed into... otherwise you'll just be blowing oil out of your VC


Die grinder removing material to make room for the jam nuts... this section was easy only one nub to remove.


In this section (same chamber as oem PCV valve) there was alot of material to remove. This and the next 2 pics show the areas that needed to be addressed....


cont...


last spot.


Jam nuts also needed to be modified in order to accommodate the interior angles of the VC




Here you can see they now sit flush





Taped off the bit a little over a 1/2in deep so not to drill or tap too deep


Tapping the holes...

Close-up

Ready to mount the fittings and replace the baffle plate

I forgot to grab a pic of the interior before closing it up. But I added a very small bead of High-Temp RTV to the VC side of the Jam nuts and to the entire contact point of the baffle plate and VC before tightening it all down

I got a little overzealous with the Hondabond at the end there and made a bit of a mess around the fittings but all in all I think it came out pretty good. Just used a rubber cap and a hose clamp for the OEM breather port and a PCV plug (you can get them at any autoparts store) for the OEM PCV hole.

LeeMajors19082

Well so far so good... now that she's revving right. 220hp at the wheels on 8lb wg spring alone... now it's time to turn up the BOOST!!!

LeeMajors19082

So I had my tuner stop at doing pulls at 16.5psi (290/hp) because I was worried about the stock sleeves. For some reason I didn't think it was going to need that much boost to make my goal of 300hp? The good thing is that he scaled it out to about 20psi so I can turn it up if I want to. I had him leave it at 14psi to err on the safe side and it's making 278hp/266tq as it stands. I'm very happy with that. And I can only assume that if I get 12hp between 14-16.5psi that 300hp should be right around 18-19psi... maybe I'll turn it up? At some point I definitely want to do a "high-boost" map vs daily map on some type of switch, I think that would be ideal. Also cam, valvetrain, and manifold will be in the works for next year.

Thx to everyone that helped me out along the way, and a big thank you to Derek Robinson @Innovative Motorworks in Carlisle, PA! Great ppl, great service and GREAT TUNE! I can't thank them enough. Here's the dyno graphs:

PTVDesign

Hello, pls send me calibration! Thanks.

LeeMajors19082

Nah no freebies here man..... Contact my tuner though. I'm sure he'd be more than happy to set you up with an appt.? His number and contact info are above in my posts^^^. He also does remote tuning, if for any reason you were unable to get to his dyno..? GL

LeeMajors19082

So I found a diamond in the rough today while at my local u-pull-it... i originally just went for some rear brake calipers (mine are SHOT) and I came across what WAS the most pristine, garage kept, 1990 Prelude Si! This thing was gorgeous! Looked like the owner only drove it on the weekends? It had just over 91k on the odometer and the interior seriously looked like it just came from the dealership! Unless this thing was COMPLETELY rebuilt/refinished the owner must've taken really REALLY good care of it?... I mean the engine bay and everything! Not a drop of oil, NOTHING...CLEEEAAANN. Anyway, the poor guy must've been out for a ride and got broadsided and totalled it (he/she must've been devestated).

Enough of that though, now to the point of this post.... I snagged the OEM steering wheel off of it! And it's a beaute! Similar in a lot of ways to the S2k wheel but without the ultra comfy leather, the airbags and all that BS. I may look into having it stitched up in some Alcantara but for now I'm just planning to enjoy the slightly smaller diameter and 3-spoke design. Anyways, here's the wheel:

Since I deleted my cruise control I'm going to rewire those switches to serve a different purpose (stereo volume maybe? Or low-boost/high-boost settings in the ecu?)

GhostAccord

Nice find!

LeeMajors19082

I know right!? I couldn't believe it!? With that said though, it wound up being a HUGE pita to install!... because somebody told a fib. So I'll have to find the link later but it was either here or on CD7Tuner and it listed all the compatible Honda steering wheels and the tooth counts, on the actual steering shaft that the wheel hub goes onto,... well it stated that they were the same (tooth count/size) and let me be the first to tell you; they were anything but! At that point though I was already knee deep in the ****-show so it wasn't like I was just going to give up!?

I tore both wheels down to the bare essentials and then began the process of cutting the welds that held the hubs to the wheels. Once I got them off and swapped, I immediately found there were going to be fitment issues. And after going through a myriad of different options/sacrifices I decided that I refused to give up the horn and the CC buttons, and that I needed all the functionality of the OEM setup so I had to semi-fab a spacer out of the OEM Prelude stalk holder? Idk what its called? But had I not made the spacer I would've lost high-beams and the steering column cover would've needed to be cut which would inevitably look like ****. Now I'm sure I could've found a way to make it look half decent but nothing really looks better than OEM when it comes to the column itself IMHO. And I also could've come up with an option for the High-beams but for all the extra work it would've taken it just would've looked/felt like **** anyway because the wheel was literally right up against the stalks. So yea.... it sucked. lol! I did however take some pics along the way so maybe it'll help someone else out in the future? Tbh once you know exactly how to do it, and you have the right tools at your disposal, it's really pretty simple and straight forward.

Both wheels here side by side. Prelude on the left and OEM Accord on the right. Immediately you'll notice the difference in height, which caused some fitment issues with the wiper/signal stalks. Also note the difference between the inside diameter of the hubs.
Here's the OEM hub...
and this is the Lude hub... it's got a substantially smaller I.D. than the OEM Accord hub.
So out comes the cutoff wheel...
and here's the OEM hub after cutting it off the wheel. I'm not sure why but I didn't get a pic of it after I welded it into position on the Lude wheel, but you can take my word for it, it came out lovely and the teeth lined up perfectly with the steering shaft.
Next was this thing. This was the item from the Lude that I don't know the name of? Which had to be modified in order to fit onto the Accord column...
Had I used the OEM one from the Accord the steering wheel itself would sit too closely to the rest of the column and the signal and wiper stalks would literally rub on the steering wheel itself! However if I installed the one from the Prelude the fitment in relation to the rest of the column would be perfect....
the only problem was that this spacer that came with it from the Prelude column was shaped and tapped differently than the Accord column . So as you can see here I had to do a bit of cutting, drilling, and general massaging in order to make it work. But in the end....
I got THIS!^^^
And I've gotta say, I absolutely fkn LOVE it!

LeeMajors19082

First and foremost HAPPY NEW YEAR H-T!!!!

Hey I've got a question for those of you running boosted setups with stock axles:
DO any of you do launches off of your 2-step? Or just "clutch-dump" launches period? And if so at what RPM are you doing this, have you annihilated any axles/clutches/flywheels/tires/etc.; basicallwhat are the downsides or negative aspects of doing this? and as always thank you in advance