Hello Fellow HT members, So I don't mean to beat the dead horse as I am sure that there is a million of identical threads, however I just wanted to start this thread to get some advice as to exactly what parts to get. To tell you alittle bit about what exactly I am looking to do, I currently have a 94 Honda civic vx hatch with a b16a2 swap. Now I am looking to rebuild the engine basically get it set up for turbo ( forged internals). I want to make a strong decent motor that will last me awhile as I still plan on using it as a daily atleast until I finish building my H2B.. I want to be able to squeeze out as much power as I can while still running on pump gas. My budget for this build would be around $10k. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you all in Advance. I will attach pictures of the vehicles current condition soon as I take them.

 

find a good build thread and copy it. No one here is gonna spoon feed you a parts list. If your building the block with a budget of 10K i would definitely look into getting a b18 block

 

you seem to have misunderstood me I'm not looking for anyone to spoon feed me anything but just to simply provide any recommendations from personal experience Wether It be trial and error or w.e. After all its all about word of mouth. I do appreciate the comment on the b18 and I have looked in to that as well but I figured seeing as I already have the b16 I might as well build that. as I stated before pictures will be soon to follow and I will post up some recommendations on parts Im looking into and would appreciate anyone's feedback. Thanks again

 

B18 Vtec is much better IMO, better low end torque/spool times from turbo

 

 

Ok so these are pics of the civic as I currently got it. It still needs a bit of work, but not much, definitely want to change out the rear taillights and rims also motor has a few connectors just hanging in engine bay so may have to fix alittle bit of the wiring but other than that the motor does run strong.

 

I do agree with you my original build I was looking into was a b18c1 Turbo, but I figured I might as well do something with the b16 since I already have it and from what I hear there pretty durable motors due to its R/S Ratio.

 

Don't worry about that R/S ratio stuff. It's really more of a mathematical optimum ratio, doesn't mean the car will run better. If that were the case , you wouldn't have factory 2.3 litres running around efficiently. Don't use that as a valid reason to keep the B16. If you already have it, great, but don't use that R/S ratio rationality.

Remember, please keep this FI related. If this is an appearance or build thread that doesn't stay in the FI category, just ask us to move it to the Cosmetic/Appearance forum. We'll gladly oblige ya.

 

Thank you I appreciate it and I understand about the r/s ratio and I didn't mean as far as in a sense that it would run better but that it would suffer far less degradation over time due to it not having as much stress on cylinder walls compared to other motors

 

If the "degradation" over time is a concern for you. It's not because of the R/S ratio, I'll tell you that. It'll be from the lack of detail of the engine assembly and bad tuning. Not a mathematical number like that.

 

Yes but I mean in a sense of normal wear and tear of course assuming the assembly and tuning is done correctly

 

I don't know how many ways to tell you this politely.. R/S has nothing to do with that kind of wear. It is completely irrelevant.

 

Ok We'll thank you anyway sorry for getting a little off track here anyway my first thing I'm looking into is getting a set of forged pistons and rods. Do you have any experience with CP pistons over Wiseco ? And also I've been trying to look up different ways to reinforce the block aside from sleeving and putting in this type of liquid aluminum is there any other way to reinforce the block and would you reccomend Darton sleeves if so ?

 

At what point would you say the R/S ratio become more important, as I'm sure you're aware of it being one of the reasons why bikes and f1 cars can rev so freely. When I heard that there are people with ls bottom ends revving over 11k however, I began to question if you were actually ever limited by it.

 

That's because the FIA has a series of displacement rules in which the engine manufacturers have to follow. That's the whole point of Formula 1: to create limitations in areas of the cars' platform in order to stimulate ideas and innovation with those limitations.

R/S ready only starts to get important when looking at the fps speed of pistons for extremely high rpm situations in which the engine is subjected to that abuse for extremely long durations of time, in which that fps configuration of the engine needs to be truly balanced with the rest of the chassis. Literally a fully balanced machine where engine and chassis work together.

That is nothing like the situations that you and I experience on any real level, regardless of power. This is why even the OEM ignore that optional number; brocade in the grand scheme of the cars utility, it doesn't really matter.

 

totally agree with shodan here. rs ratio has virtually no effect with anything however displacement has a much larger impact especially for the street
IE. midrange turbo car thats fun to drive

If you were gonna boost it stock I could completely understand but as far as building the block "cause its what I have" I just dont get it parts and assembly aint cheap so you may as well start with a platform that will work well in the long run

 

 

A good place to start doing some reading is the Forced Induction FAQ stickied in the FI section.
I don't see you mentioning power goal in your initial post.

To build a simple reliable B16A turbo you only need a few key parts;

Forged Pistons (Any of the big brand names CP 9:1/10:1,JE,Wiseco, Manley)
Forged Rods (Eagle/Manley/K1 H-beams)
ARP Headstuds
New OEM headgasket
New bearings to match factpry clearance
Upgraded valve springs & Retainers (any of the brand names)

Turbo kit (don't cheap out on the turbo, at minimum the Go Autoworks kit with Turbonetics T-GA or small GT-K option)
This kit offers a all bearing turbo with some design improvements GO-AUTOWORKS StreetX Turbo Kit Ball Bearing D16 B16 B18 B20

Injectors 750cc or 1000cc (Get the new style EV14 high impedance if you can)
Walboro 255 fuel pump
AEM Adjustable fuel pressure regulator with boost reference

Hondata S300 or Neptune

Upgraded clutch (ACT HDSS, Comp Stg 2 or 3, Clutchmasters FX350)

That should get you in the ballpark...

 

Thank you I appreciate it, as far as power goals 300 hp is ideal but anything over would be great. Pretty much if I could run atleast low 12s would be good. This would be more or less my little daily with some decent power as I am also doing an H2b build which im looking to get as much power as possible.

 

It would help you to rearrange your goals. First, start with the car's purpose, drag, street, track...they all need different parts and power. Depending on the purpose, you then have a better idea of what power you need. Psi to make the power comes last and is up to your tuner/fuel choice.

 

And to add, 300whp is do-able on a stock healthy engine, running good fuel (93 Octane or E85) with the right supporting mods and safe, solid tune. As Geis said, picking your goal/needs and purpose for the car from the start will allow you to do things right from the start, and not be led down the wrong path.

There's nothing wrong with building the engine, even if your goal remains 300whp, as you won't have to worry about hurting stock parts but it is significantly more expensive to do so.

 

The OP should start following my build... My foundation is a JDM 10.4:1 CR B16A long block. It currently makes 192 whp and 120 ft-lbs all motor. During the next few weeks I will attempt to bring it closer to 200 whp. I'm also in the process of building up a turbo kit for it with help of Geoff @ Full-Race. I just stated my requirement to him earlier. I need about 500 whp for time attack on E85... Give or take a few depending on that works out. All of this is for my del Sol's grounds up rebuild for SLB/GTA/SEMA 2017. take a look here: https://ghettoracer.wordpress.com/pr...-2017-preface/

ps on 91 oct. pump gas I expect my setup to be over 300 whp. how must boost i don't know yet... we'll see.

 

Ok so I decided I am going to start with building the Head first then work my way down to the block that way I am not running all over the place. Now I have done some research as far as for the valves and retainers and from my understanding Ferrea Valves are better then Skunk 2. does anyone have any feedback on this brand ?

so far for the head I plan on getting:
Ferrea Valves
Ferrea Dual Valve springs and retainers

My only other thing is wether to go with Bronze valve guides or OEM. From what I read OEM are better ? can any1 back up this claim ? Thank You

 

Get back to the camshaft you plan to use 1st . then go to the valvesprings/ retainers and valves.

-Different camshafts (especially aftermarket) utilize different spring seat pressures to go with their camshafts. Once you know the camshaft you plan to use, you then investigate what valvesprings/retainers to use based upon company of the camshaft (so that they are most within a match), then you can see what valves you want to use. Don't do this "back it up w/ data I wouldn't understand anyway" approach. All you'll get is personal opinions as to what the person used based upon their purpose. Now you're out of the picture.

-Valve guides really only need to be replaced if there is something wrong with the head on that valve. If the machine shop sees something wrong, and can't use a steel guide to replace it, or you have multiple issues with the guides in the head, only then do you replace the guides. Steel if possible, but bronze is good too. Just make sure you have the actual valves in hand to give to the machine shop.
In your case, check your machine shop and replace as needed. Steel OEM if possible, Bronze is easier to get as a package if needed.. . check with your machine shop first on the condition of the head BEFORE YOU BUY

-Ferrea as a company has MANY fine products. Some like them over the Skunk2 , others don't. Ferrea has a bit more flexibility in getting replacement parts more easily, and depending upon the purpose and compression, is a more complete package that includes valvesprings,, retainers, and keyways. If you do decide on Ferrea, use the valvelocks that Ferrea gives you. do not use the oem locks. Skunk2 valves uses OEM valve locks.

 

Ok so the ones I am looking into are Ferrea, Brian Crower, or ITR cams. It seems like the Ferrea are alittle harder to find because I looked on their website and they have cams but for b16a3 would I be able to use that one? and I have been only able to find the intake cam. which of the 3 would I be better off with? I want to do a complete overhaul with the head so atleast I know I have quality parts and not run into any issues down the road.