Hello all,

I have a 92 Honda civic hatchback with a b18b1. The temperature gauge on my way to work today and previously would read where the need only slightly covers the temperature symbol. But I noticed it would not after an hour of driving slightly fluctuates between the bottom of the temp symbol and then covering half of it. So it never really got hotter than half way. Where is the needle supposed to fit or is it really that sensitive? I have only has this car for a couple days. I used to have an ek and I never a fluctuation on it.

IDEAS?? coolant looks good. aluminum newer radiator. Full on coolant. Fan works. haven't checked the resistor or switch yet.

 

It's suppose to be a tick under half way.

 

Okay that's what I thought. I noticed pulling into work that it sat just perfectly horizontal. This was while cruising. Then when I came to a stop in the parking lot I let it run for another five minutes and it went slightly down like its supposed to be. Ill check for air in the cooling system tonight. Any other ideas? Coolant is full.

 

Drove 120 miles since it happened. Stop and go traffic and highway...stays where its supposed to be. Kind of weird to me

 

As long as it never goes above half way, you should be fine. Every sensor and gauge is a little different and it will sit slightly off of each other.

My gauge sits a touch under half, my wife's sits almost exactly half. The old head with the same sensor and gauge it sat quite a bit less than half.

The key is it never goes above half, as soon as it's starting to go above half, is an indication it's actually starting to overheat.

 

This.

 

Hello all, I have a 92 Eg hatch with a b18b1. skunk2 throttle body. full 2.25 inch Yonaka exhaust, k&n drop in filter. It still has ac and only a single wide aluminum radiator of unknown brand. I am having a few different issues with the car.

1) The temperature gauge fluctuates between right below the needle being horizontal and the needle being horizontal. This may not be an issue right now but it will only get worse I assume. Any ideas why this is happening. It occurs mostly while cruising in the city around 40pmh and lower. Sometime at a stop but not always. Highway speeds give me no issues. The radiator fan does kick on and there is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Also no air in the cooling system and no problems with loss of coolant. BUT the other day it was idling in the driveway and I noticed it go to the horizontal mark and I had the headlights on. I turned them off and the needle immediately dropped. Turned back on and immediately went back up. I mean within the second. So this makes me not want to trust the gauge but its kind of an important one. Since this happened I cleaned the engine grounds and the issue with the headlights doesn't happen anymore that I've noticed. The engine has never seen the temperature gauge above the horizontal mark since I've owned the car. Ideas about what I should do? I would like it if the temperature stayed slightly below the horizontal mark where it normally is.

2) Sometimes I get a rough idle. It has new spark plugs but unknown age on the distributor cap and plug wires. From a inspection they look to be in good shape. New valve cover gasket and no oil on plugs fouling them out. This happened when I originally bought the car and have since replaced the valve cover. Also sometimes taking off from a stop the car wants to sputter really bad and not go. Almost sounds like 2 step/anti lag. I let off the throttle and try again and it usually goes. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS. I'm not entirely sure what to check next. Ideas?

3) This is my second vehicle. I am in the process of buying a house and do not want to be throwing parts at the car without having a good idea that it should fix the issue.

I have attached a picture showing where it sits when it gets "hot"

 

Any ideas? Would you guy be worried with it getting to that temperature? If it was obdII I could get a better reading.

 

sorry, i never read part 2

 

maybe go a grade cooler on the plugs as long as they don't foul

 

did the gauge ever just sit lower, is this where the gauge aways sat, the gauge just reads continuity and while its a constant reading its not the most accurate, it gives a range and if the engine is consistently in that range then that is probably what you have.

 

90% of the time if not more the gauge sits a click below half. This is where I believe it should be. Then randomly it will go to half way as pictured. Just checked the fan and it is operating as it should. Weird thing is it did it this morning at around 60 degrees f. Yet on the way home at nearly 80 degrees it never moved above where it should be.

 

Did you at anytime have the car interior heater on?

 

Yeah, turning on the heater appears to make the temperature gauge go back to normal. I drove 60 miles again today in highway and stop and go traffic and it was completely fine. Then I was half a mile from work at a stop light and it decided to go to half way again. Not really sure anymore. Might change the coolant. Maybe a new radiator cap just because. The fan was working perfectly last night cycling on an off. Maybe when it gets hot after an hour and a half of driving the fan cant keep up or something. The thing is I drove it home yesterday 60 miles from work and then let it idle in the garage just messing with it and it had no issues. Last night I also cleaned the sensor connection for the gauge and cleaned the grounds. The car seemed to idle a little better. Just really unsure of what to do next.

 

My 00 Em1 would sputter when taking off from a red light, my 94 eg started sputtering during normal driving. Both cars needed a ignition tune up (plugs, wires and cap/rotor) As far as your temp gauge, my brothers em2 had a bad water pump and his symptoms were somewhat like yours. If you don't know how old the timing belt or water pump is I would swap them out. Look to spend around 200 bucks for all parts if going aftermarket (timing belt, water pump, wires, plugs, cap and rotor. )

 

Have you changed the thermostat yet? After checking the coolant level, that is the next thing to do when temperature fluctuates. Thermostats can get sticky and not move immediately when the temperature changes like they should. Ordinarily I insist on testing parts before replacing, but this is hard to test and a new thermostat is not very expensive.

That is if the temperature is actually fluctuating. As you found out, electrical problems like bad grounds can make the gauge vary even if the temperature is constant.

 

I have not changed it yet. I might go ahead and do that tonight. It only does it in the morning when its colder and there is more moisture in the air I'm assuming....

 

Bleed the cooling system.

 

I have already done so. Zero air come out that I could notice. No bubbles, heater on, didn't have to ad.

If you're referring to after thermostat replacement tonight then yes of course.

 

The problem described is a perfect fit for air or exhaust gas trapped in the cooling system. Give details on how you bled the cooling system.

Have you checked for a blown head gasket using a block tester kit?

 

No I have not checked for a blown head gasket.

With this car I have tried bleeding the cooling system with the cap off. Front elevated, operating temperature for 10-15 minutes with the fan kicking on and off.
I also have tried using the bleeder nipple since the motor is obd1 and im not sure I used it correctly. I opened it and allowed it to flow until it was a solid stream and no air. First vehicle I've had that had one of these valves.

 

Follow steps 8-12. Proper use of bleed bolt is described. Be sure that radiator fan turns on at least twice and that the heater hose valve is fully open.



If problem persists after a properly thorough bleed, then rent a block tester kit.

 

RONJ thanks for the help. I will give it a try tonight. I also purchased a block tester just to have around. My sisters civic has also been having overheating issues and im 99.999% that's whats wrong with hers. so this gives me a reason to have one. I will update tomorrow after my drive in to work and see if its any better. OR tonight if its a blown head gasket lol

 

Good luck.

 

My car passed the block test. Any other ideas? It will only happens every so often...If I turn on the heat inside the car the temperature will drop immediately back to where it was supposed to.