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I recently read a similar thread to this one, where the guy was having an identical issue, and apparently it had something to do with his Starter being on the fritz and throwing all kinds of EMI out while revving the engine out!? Anyway, his mech/tuner replaced the starter and viola. I'm just curious if anyone else has ever hear anything like this? Or do you think a starter could actually produce that much, if any, EMI? Thx again man
If the starter solenoid were stuck to where the starter was always engaged the motor would then turn into a generator and cause all kinds of back EMI.
That's the only way I could see it off the top of my head. I would think it would burn the starter up pretty quick if that was the case though. If not, that is one tough starter.
Okay so I'm having to revisit this because the issue has yet to be resolved. let's go through a checklist of what's been checked/replaced since the beginning:
ECU/Tune
Distributor
Plugs
Plug wires
Starter
All Ground wires
MAP sensor
Resistor pack
Speed sensor
Alternator
And after all this the only thing that's changed is that A) the battery light no longer comes on as it happens and B) There's no voltage drop. Aside from those 2 things the issue remains the same... Fuel cuts out right around 5k or in other words the A/F gauge goes completely lean and the engine breaks up. I can't rev thru it but it's also NOT like bouncing off of a rev limiter.
So what's left?... Fuel pump? Injectors? Fuel pressure regulator? I need some more help here fellas... thx in advance
Okay so I'm having to revisit this because the issue has yet to be resolved. let's go through a checklist of what's been checked/replaced since the beginning:
ECU/Tune
Distributor
Plugs
Plug wires
Starter
All Ground wires
MAP sensor
Resistor pack
Speed sensor
Alternator
And after all this the only thing that's changed is that A) the battery light no longer comes on as it happens and B) There's no voltage drop. Aside from those 2 things the issue remains the same... Fuel cuts out right around 5k or in other words the A/F gauge goes completely lean and the engine breaks up. I can't rev thru it but it's also NOT like bouncing off of a rev limiter.
So what's left?... Fuel pump? Injectors? Fuel pressure regulator? I need some more help here fellas... thx in advance
The main relay under the hood? And do you mean the radiator fan? Please be more specific, because I like where you're going with this, as HEAT has been a HUGE issue since I boosted the engine...? And so far the only mods to the harness are swapping A6 and A11, tapping A11 for PWM boost control, and tapping +12v constant and Ground at the ECU for the wideband. Oh and iirc another wire was tapped for the wideband also, maybe d10? I cant remember but I know it was the ELD wire on the harness.
the main relay is found under the dash it supplies power to the fuel pump, ecu, injectors
you should tap the o2 from D14
try disabling the pwm boost control then tune fuel and iginition maps again.
do not tap from the ELD wire. disable the ELD option on the chip.
get the power source of the wideband directly from the battery.
are you sure you dont have boost leaks?
and make sure the radiator fan has proper wiring (proper relays, no corrosion, proper wire size) because it draws the largest current.
have the car retuned by a good tuner
the main relay is found under the dash it supplies power to the fuel pump, ecu, injectors
you should tap the o2 from D14
try disabling the pwm boost control then tune fuel and iginition maps again.
do not tap from the ELD wire. disable the ELD option on the chip.
get the power source of the wideband directly from the battery.
are you sure you dont have boost leaks?
and make sure the radiator fan has proper wiring (proper relays, no corrosion, proper wire size) because it draws the largest current.
have the car retuned by a good tuner
PWM isn't being used atm, because of the rev issue. My tuner never completed the tune, he just tuned as best he could to make it driveable. For some reason we could'nt get neptune to see the wideband via D14 which is why we went ELD but I'll look back into that for sure and also rewire it directly to +12v off the battery. Tested for boost leaks and there's none. And the radiator fan is something I'll also investigate. Now as far as that relay you pointed out; am I checking to see if the relay itself is heating up? And if so is there any specific conditions I should try to replicate in order to see if it's getting hot? plz lmk? And thx for all your input
Alright so I took this log this morning and tbh it's the first log I've actually recorded in a LONG time. And the more I think about it, I'm pretty sure, it's the first log I've recorded since making all of the changes over the past few months... I know I know, let the flaming begin. There's a few reasons why I didn't record any logs but, the bottom line is, there's NO EXCUSES... I fkd up... Period. Anyway, I've always been under the assumption that my OEM tach was functioning properly, and as it turns out; it's not, not by a long shot. So previously when taking logs and watching my tach things matched up, hence the assumption, but today was different...way different. So here's the scenario: In the driveway, engine and fluids up to temp, in Neutral (so no load, no boost), WOT..... 1st time it's hits the rev limiter @6009rpm then dips... and comes back up a 2nd time and peaks @6048rpm and I let off the throttle...
So clearly it's now revving past 5k.... according to my gauge cluster were nowhere near that, maybe 4900? But definitely not 6k!? Regardless that's not the point; the point is>>> IT'S REVVING OUT!!!! It's actually hitting the rev limit set by Neptune!!! Woot! Woot!! Now the question is will it do this under load and while in boost? I'll update asap
Re: Can't Rev Past 5000RPM?!!!
