Yes the firing order does matter.

 

Distributor



Order

 

Like someone else said, compression test, and check mechanical timing. If someone tried to adjust the valves, they may be too tight, which will cause loss of compression and failure to start.

On the mechanical timing, take off the valve cover and the upper timing belt cover so you can see the marks. TDC the engine by turning crank counterclockwise by hand and check the crank and cam are on the mark. Then remove distributor cap and confirm that the rotor points to wire #1. This will be either the top back or bottom back post on the cap depending on the distributor (cap will be marked with a "1" or other mark by one of the posts). The other wires, like chrysler kid's pictures show, go 1-3-4-2 clockwise looking at the outside of the cap. And #1 is the cylinder farthest from the distributor.

 

Spark plug wire set up.
Also did the compression tests
Dry : from 1 to 4 (x2) - 70/60, 90/100, 100/100, 165/160
Wet: 65, 70, 100, 210
Of note, cylinder 4 got little too much oil during wet test and i couldn't release the pressure using release valve (? clogged hose). So i am not sure, if that reading can be trusted. Also, the markings on that gauge don't make sense, so i took pictures.

 

Compression test for cylinder #1. For purpose of deciphering the read out. Have pictures for all the readings.

 

Check the mechanical timing.

 

Can you see my posts. Your car has the wrong distributor on it.

The distributor on your car looks brand new, but it's the wrong one for the hx.

​​​​​​Hx has a larger coil, as I mentioned a page and a half ago.

 

wrong distributor for sure, those numbers do not indicate a healthy motor, either.

 

@chrysler_kid and eghatch: Thanks.
The distributor was changed about 2 years ago and has been working so far. So do you still think it is part of the problem?
What is concerning about the compression numbers and health of the engine?

@Ron: Mech timing later today. Will follow mk378 (Thanks!) post for the tip.

 

Yes, as I mentioned the hx has a larger coil for more spark since it requires more air flow during 12valve operation. Your current distributor has 3bolt holes, the Hitachi has only 2

Your distributor is also clocked incorrectly. Loosen the bolts and rotate the distributor as far counter clock wise as you can.

There is no point to check timing. Your distributor is causing your timing problems. It's not clocked correctly and it's the wrong distributor. Again see the picture I posted of how the distributor should be clocked against the head to set proper degree of timing.

Just go ahead and keep ignoring the guy who has had 4different hx's.

 

Even if it's the wrong distributor, it was working before with the same one I believe. The compression test results are worrying, but again, there wasn't any work done that would change that from the point of running to now non-running. OP, have you verified that the distributor is seated firmly into the head? It IS possible to install it 180 degrees out if you disregard the fact that it doesn't fully seat into the head. Also verify that the rotor button inside is firmly attached, I can't tell you how many times I've had a similar issue and it ended up being the screw in the rotor button backing out, causing the rotor to spin randomly and give fire to the wrong cylinders at the wrong time.

 

Chrysler_kid: I am all ears and appreciate your inputs.
Will rotate the distributor and hope it will get me closer to solving this issue. And if necessary, will look for another distributor. I do have one from the salvage sitting in my garage and can compare it with your picture later today.

 

I do believe it is seated fully in to the head. I have been extra cautious when re-seating these, as I have broken the spindle (is that what it is called?) in the old dizzy, cos I thought it will snap in place when the engine turns if it was slightly off (wrong). I should be able to see if it is 180 deg misaligned when I cross check with the mechanical timing, right?

 

Ron: If the timing is off, what do I do? How do I correct it? (Just thinking ahead)

 

Loosen timing belt and readjust the crank and cam shaft, sliip on belt and re-tension.

 

You check for distributor 180 degrees off by removing the cap with the engine at TDC and make sure the rotor is about to fire #1. If it is 180 off, remove distributor rotate shaft 180 degrees and reinstall.

Those compression numbers are really bad. You would like to see at least 120 in all cylinders even on a cold test. Did you push the gas to the floor while cranking for the test? That is important to let air into the engine so there is something to compress.

Compression not increasing when you put a little oil in (unless of course you put a LOT of oil in, which is wrong), means that the problem is likely the valves. Make sure that when you turn the engine to where all 4 rocker arms on a cylinder are up, there is a little slack between the adjuster screw and the top of the valve stem. If they are too tight you will lose compression. If that is the case, you can just arbitrarily loosen them a little, that may help get started, once you know it can start do a proper adjustment.

 

Thanks MK, the distributor should be an easy fix.
I did not push the gas to the floor during the test. Will repeat today with that step.
I feel like I am lost in a mansion with thousand doors and each door takes me deeper and deeper inside when I am trying to get outside. There is fear and excitement with each step and door I unlock. But I am getting braver and confident with all the help here, and my optimism is not fading yet.

 

Tony, do you have a link on how to go about this. During my search, I am coming across some very bad things that could happen if not done right. Thx.

 

Before you do a compression test, the engine mechanical timing must be correct.

Check the mechanical timing:

Remove valve cover and upper timing belt cover.

Turn crank pulley only CCW until the cam gear pulley is perfectly set at TDC1. Use the TDC1 marks on the rear side of the cam pulley.

Look down at crank pulley, and check whether the pointer on the lower timing belt cover aligns with the lone white mark on the crank pulley. If they don't align, the mechanical timing is off, indicating that the timing belt skipped one or more teeth on the cam/crank gear.

 

^^^

 

So this is what I am going to do this evening:
1. Check the mechanical timing as outlined above
a. adjust the distributor if necessary
2. Check that cylinder #1 is up during TDC (need simple steps to check this, any one?)
4. Adjust timing if necessary - not quite sure how to do this. I am looking it up.
5. Re check compressions - this time with gas pedal to the floor.

Please suggest addition or modifications if you feel.

 

1. Set cam pulley to TDC1 and check whether crank pulley is at TDC1.

2a. Timing good: Go to 3.
or
2b. Timing bad: Install new timing belt with engine set at TDC1. Go to 3.

3. Check whether distributor is installed 1980-degrees out of phase.

4. Check whether engine starts and runs well.

5a. Engine won't start: Compression test cylinders.
or
5b. Engine runs: Pat yourself on the back.

 

Let's just look at the coil specs. I'll bet a dollar his mechanical timing is correct.

After a hard reset of the ecu being disconnected for over 30 minutes the car restarts dumping fuel to assume a fail safe start not to damage the engine if a sensor is reading incorrectly. Wrong coil, small spark, no start
​​​​​​
I'm assuming if the car ran before tear down his mechanical timing is correct, and the compression numbers were inaccurately taken

 

Not the best pictures but could you verify if timing is alright? Crank pulley
Cam shaft.
Crank pulley. Hopefully better angle.

 

Post pic of rear side of cam pulley where verifying alignment of pulley mark and top of head is easiest.

The pointer on the lower timing belt cover has two parts, similar to the sight of a gun. Post pic showing alignment of both pointer elements with lone white mark on crank pulley.