Coil ohm test
A - B 0.7 ohm
A - C 16.83 (x20K)
Also had my battery tested (electronic) and voltage was good but crank amp was 69 under load. Got me a new battery, but still crank no start.
Next fuel pressure.

 

Hooked up the fuel pressure gauge. The needle did not move upon crank (x3). I suppose there is no fuel pressure. Next main relay i suppose ?

 

Here is the picture of the main relay. No bad solder points that I can see.
Right now reading about how to test power to the fuel pump. Will also check Fuse 13 and 31 (under dash).

 

Did you subtract the meter's internal resistance from the A-B reading?

 

Yes.
The base resistant was 0.2 - 0.3 and final reading was 1.0
Also my pressure gauge (loaner from AutoZone) is faulty. Didn't get a reading from another car. Will try to get my neighbor to check it for me tomorrow.

 

Orange spark is weak spark. A bad ICM can sometimes cause weak spark.

 

K. Will look up how to test icm.

 

cant be done at home, call around parts stores and see who has a tester.

 

Tried to spray some starting fluid in intake but still won't start.
Tried prolonged crank (10 sec max ), with gas pedal to the floor, there seems to be a feeble attempt at start but won't sustain. Tried pumping the pedal, no joy.
During this crank, the inactive car alarm chirps add if i took the keys off. (This alarm came with the car and never caused a problem) .
Brake pedal is hard to push, does that mean anything?
Haven't found a place to check icm yet.

 

^Fits with weak spark.

Buy coil and ICM from AutoZone. Install and see whether engine starts. If so, install new coil/old ICM and old coil/new ICM to identify bad part. Return coil and/or ICM for refund, depending on test results.

No

 

AutoZone can test them. Every autozone has one below the alternator and starter tester in their back room. If they play stupid, have them look up the ignition control module in the system, and under the item description in the system is a link that says "wells test sheet". Basically they just need to know what pigtail to connect to the control module, and what number to input to test the module.

If they still act stupid just buy the part and return it if the new one doesn't fix your problem.

If the car is attempting to start it sounds like a spark problem. However i would suggest double checking your hoses in the engine bay to make sure you didn't leave one disconnected as well. The booster hose should be hooked up to the back of the intake manifold up top in the middle. There is a check valve in the booster line, it's in the holder that is on the firewall, basically it looks like a little grey connector in the middle of the hose

Make sure you get the right one for the HX. You should have the Hitachi distributor, you can tell by the distributor cap on your car. The Tec dizzy cap is flat on the front, the Hitachi is flat in the middle and then has the ends curved to fit the different internals

Hitachi

 

Changed the fuel pressure gauge and now it reads 42 psi.
Swapping out the icm and will post update.

 

Took the distributor apart and swapped the ICM and coil in turn, cannibalized from a previously working unit No change. Still cranks as before. With each task I get my hopes up only to be disappointed. Just feel there is little something that I am missing.
Checked connections and hose again. Don't see any missing.

 

Did you test the donor ICM and coil together or just individually? Is spark still orange?

Are the plug wires installed in the wrong firing order?

Have you checked the mechanical timing and compression tested the cylinders?

 

ICM and coil swapped individually. haven't checked spark (i guess i will) .
Didn't change the plug wires, so should be same firing order.
Was hoping not having to do the compression testing, but looks like that's where i am at. However, why would the timing go out of sync without doing anything to the engine?
The belts - if they are too tight (or loose), would that make a difference? It's not loose from what i can tell but that is something i had to remove while replacing ac compressor .

 

@Ron
finally, Got the CEL error code 1359 (top dead center, something). Could you guide me how to tackle this? Hope it's not out of my bounds.

 

Swap both just in case both are bad.

Post pics just to verify.

It's not impossible to jump time while cranking. Chase out all possible causes of a no-start problem. Don't make assumptions.

 

This^ is almost certainly the problem. Check whether the distributor plug is fully seated.

 

Thanks Ron.
Confirmed distributor plug is firmly seated. Deleted the error code. Tried cranking but no start still. Code did not come back. Can try starting again and check code little later.
Meanwhile, do you think I need to check timing? If yes, please guide me on how to.

 

Did you unplug the distributor connector, inspect it, and reconnect it securely?

Also crank engine for 25 seconds to see whether the code is reset.

Is spark still orange?

 

Unplugged and reconnected the distributor harness. Cranked for about 25 sec x2 but CEL did not come on.
Sparks are bright and white all four.
I am noticing that after a break at time of first crank it almost starts.
Ron, Thanks for your patience and help.

 

Bright white spark is fine.

It's time to recheck the plug wire firing order, the mechanical timing, and the cylinder compressions.

 

with that code, distributor can be shot.

 

The code did not return after I erased it. Also, I had forgotten to connect it and tried to crank it (didn't look for the CEL at that time). Later, plugged it in and then I noticed the CEL code. And I checked the spark after that. So hopefully distributor still good.

I will do the compression and timing later today (I have done it a little while ago but dreading it, just don't want to create more problem).... I have come across some write ups on how to do this.

Can I try moving the dizzy at different spacing to see if that will work?? I did not pay attention to the orientation when I took it out (did think it mattered much).

 

This^ would not cause a no-start problem.