Cranks, fuel and spark is present. But wont start (solved)
It does look worse with a hd camera phone. I turned the crank ccw and had a screwdriver in #1 and once it reached the peak of travel i stopped, and by this time i used my harmonic pulley removal tool to take off the damper and voila. Only had to move the crank a liittle more ccw to line it with the marking on the oil pump
Answer my other questions, and definitely replace the old worn timing belt.
The timing belt needs to be replaced. It looks very worn and may have previously jumped teeth.
Describe exactly what you did to get the cam and crank at TDC1.
Are any CEL codes thrown?
Does the tachometer work?
When was the last time you checked for spark?
Post pics of the plug wire firing order on the distributor cap.
Describe exactly what you did to get the cam and crank at TDC1.
Are any CEL codes thrown?
Does the tachometer work?
When was the last time you checked for spark?
Post pics of the plug wire firing order on the distributor cap.
Tachometer worked when i last drove it
Checked spark about 1.5 to 2 hours ago
Does the tach work now while cranking?
Check whether hood fuse #43 is blown (scan tool).
See FAQs sticky for fuse box diagrams and the CEL sticky for how to pull the CEL codes by jumping the service connector.
Check whether hood fuse #43 is blown (scan tool).
See FAQs sticky for fuse box diagrams and the CEL sticky for how to pull the CEL codes by jumping the service connector.
Tach does not move when cranked
And i do not have the bottom timing belt cover. I can get one from the junkyard when i get this sorted.
Okay, only code 22.
The non-working tach is likely due to an OBD2a-OBD2b connector pin mismatch, but there's no evidence at this point that the mismatch is causing the no-start.
Installing the lower timing belt is needed to verify the mechanical timing with the crank pulley installed.
The non-working tach is likely due to an OBD2a-OBD2b connector pin mismatch, but there's no evidence at this point that the mismatch is causing the no-start.
Installing the lower timing belt is needed to verify the mechanical timing with the crank pulley installed.
The cylinders are likely flooded with fuel. Dry them out, add a teaspoon of oil, and try again.
Have you ever inspected the plugs? Are they old?
Have you ever inspected the plugs? Are they old?
You PM'd that your engine still did not start after replacing the spark plugs. Did you dry the cylinders of fuel? Add some oil?
Did you verify spark and fuel, and check for new CEL codes?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/
Did you verify spark and fuel, and check for new CEL codes?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/
I forgot to add oil to cylinders. I let the dry during the 15 minutes it took me took go buy some temporary copper plugs, also blew compressed air in the cylinder before leaving.
If no joy thereafter, recheck spark color (see link) and also fuel (pump priming and injector spray).
Any new CEL codes?
If still no joy, then we need to return to the mechanical timing.
Ill try it first thing in the morning, i have my best friends birthday tonight. Thanks for the help ill post up any findings tomorrow. Im sure leaving it til tomorrow will let any fuel dry up
Try the oil in cylinders now. You might also consider draining and replacing the engine oil. All the misfire fuel is in the engine now.
If no joy thereafter, recheck spark color (see link) and also fuel (pump priming and injector spray).
Any new CEL codes?
If still no joy, then we need to return to the mechanical timing.
If no joy thereafter, recheck spark color (see link) and also fuel (pump priming and injector spray).
Any new CEL codes?
If still no joy, then we need to return to the mechanical timing.
. Im looking at the link right now. And i have code 10 and 22 now.


