I have the Service Manual, but it doesn't seem to cover where this hose plugs into on a 2000 Honda Civic EX D16Y8 motor. Could you tell me where it goes?

Edit: So, this motor was pulled from a 1999 and mine is a 2000. I'm going to take a guess at the problem. 1999 didn't have a FIA Control Valve and 2000 did? My Uncle-In-Law is a mechanic and kind of winged the hoses back to their natural bend locations. This free hose was plugged into the wrong spot, I believe. He plugged it into the line right below the throttle cable in the picture below. I unplugged it from there, and plugged the Evap Purge Line into it instead. Can you confirm that was correct?

I have not taken the nearly blown motor back to get my core charge, but I can't look at it until Saturday to see if it has the FIA CV.

 

99-00 D16Y8 has a FIA system. Are all the hoses connected?

 

That's the diagram I saw when I looked over the manual again. The valve isn't there on this motor for some reason. No hole for the valve to screw into either.

This is the only hose left with no home.

I saw a diagram you did on a google photo search that was color coded. It helped me pinpoint where the valve should be. I will say this though, the engine came out of a 1999, but that doesn't mean it was the original motor. VIN Tag was removed.

 

You need these parts:

19320-P2P-A00023001 CASE, THERMOSTAT

36281-P2P-A01024001 VALVE, AIR ASSIST SOLENOID



Did you locate the FIA hose nipple on the intake manifold?

 

Likely have all of this on the old motor. Let me see if I can run over to the garage and check it out.

 

The intake manifold doesn't have the nipple nor the 2 parts you said were missing. I looked at the old Motor tonight. It had everything on it.

I would likely swap the whole intake and injectors because of no nipple. I used the old throttle body already, so I'll need to change it again.

Thing is, no codes are on the ecu for this. All I get is o2 bank 1 low voltage. What's the benefit if having this contraption?






All the way to the right side in the middle is said nipple, right?

 

Raises cold engine idle speed, like the FITV of 92-95 Civic engines.

Yep

 

RonJ, you've been a lot of help! I see you all over the forums. Thank you for your help! I'm really baffled as to why this motor is missing the nipple and FIA.

My cold idle is around 1200, but I better swap it all.

Got a pending fault (Torque Scan) code today for P1457 related to EVAP. I said something in earlier posts about changing the Purge Vacuum Line location. I thought I'd bring this up again. Is this the right location for the EVAP Canister Purge Vacuum Line? If it is, hopefully using the old solenoid valve will do the trick. I didn't get this code before the motor swap

 

Where did this engine come from? 00 Civic EX coupe?

 

All I know is a 99 and D16Y8. Salvage yard picked it for me and said 128k was on it.

 

Make sure all vacuum hoses are connected and the gas cap is tight.

Reset ECU to verify that CEL code repeats.

 

This weekend I swapped the Intake Manifold and Thermostat Housing from my old motor so I'd have the FIA. Started the motor, idled well, but I reversed the Air and Anti-Freeze lines on the IACV by mistake. Nice white smoke out the exhaust. I'd say it ran like that for 5 minutes. I swapped the lines back the way they were supposed to be. Then I was getting P1509, P0505, and severe idle fluctuation. I drove it for 45 minutes to try and clear out the system. No change except for the white smoke going away.

I shot a live video below today which was the day after I did everything. I tried showing the vacuum connections in it, but might want to watch closely to verify their locations. Start-up is a continuous 3000 RPM for about 5 seconds, then it fluctuates between 2000 and 2700 continuously. If the car is warm, it starts up at 4000 RPM for about 5 seconds, and then fluctuates between 1000 and 1700 RPM continuously. When I put it into gear, it maintains 1400 RPM. When I drive and approach a stop sign, the fluctuations resume and it's hard to keep the car stopped because the RPM is fluctuating between 1200 and 1700 RPM.

Also, I admit that I only cleaned up the Intake Manifold Gasket and Throttle Body Gasket. They seemed to be in good condition, so I re-used them. The surfaces were flat with no imperfections. One other thing, I removed the IACV plug and the idle decreases and fluctuates between 1300 and 1500 somewhat rapidly.

 

Bump

 

You are really lucky if you didn't cause engine damage.

Reset the ECU. Do the two hard CEL codes return?

Check whether the throttle cable is properly adjusted (has some free play).

Bleed the cooling system.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post39830585

 

I replaced the IACV. Throttle cable has play in it, and the adjuster on the throttle is all the way back to allow the throttle to rest in as closed of a position as it allows. I bled the cooling system. There were a lot of air bubbles, but after 3x I think I got them out.

I reset the ECU. I drove it for 45 minutes and let it idle for about an hour between bleeding the cooling etc. Code 1509 hasn't returned, but I do have p0505 and p0131 (p0131 was on before and didn't cause iradic idle behavior)

Couple changes in it's behavior. It still does the exact same thing at startup, but when I'm in gear without pushing the gas, it stops surging and is running at 1,500 RPM. Before, it would surge up and down when I was in gear and off the gas, and I'd have to press the brake fully to make it stay still. Once I hit the gas, it's running completely normal, no missing, sputtering, surging etc.

I do however hear the intake manifold sucking air either from injector 3, 4, or underneath near the PCV box. PCV is fully in the box. I removed hose from the intake manifold, and I blew as hard as I could till my ears popped. PCV box didn't leak before, and I didn't touch it when I swapped intake manifolds other than removing the hose from the intake manifold. I did swap injectors from the old motor because I knew they were good. I re-used the old grommets.

So, what do you think about me removing the intake manifold, getting a new gasket, and getting new injector grommets? When the idle is up at 2000 RPM you hear no leaks, but when it goes down to 1,000, you can hear that air being sucked in and the idle increases back to 2,000 over and over and over.

 

OMG! I just had a sudden realization. So, the new engine's intake manifold didn't have the FIA which means when I switched the intake manifold to the one with the FIA, the gasket I re-used wasn't the right one! It would be missing that seal at the top above the FIA nipple! Picking up the new gasket after work today and installing it tonight.

Found the picture below showing the 1st gasket 99-00 and the 3rd gasket 96-98. Wonder if the 99 car the motor was picked from had a 96-98 motor in it since it was missing the FIA?

 

Hopefully that fixes most of your problems.

That junk yard motor looks like a rusted barnacle, and the thermostat housing is filled with junk.

I really hope you atleast put on a new timing belt and water pump and did alot of basic maintenence before you slapped it into the car... I don't think I could trust that engine without pulling the head first

 

Hopefully that fixes most of your problems.

That junk yard motor looks like a rusted barnacle, and the thermostat housing is filled with junk.

I really hope you atleast put on a new timing belt and water pump and did alot of basic maintenence before you slapped it into the car... I don't think I could trust that engine without pulling the head first
I don't think I could just drop it in the car with everything so rusty and dirty. Maybe it's just me but if a jobs worth doing its worth doing right and make it look like it's a new engine atleast

 

man you just making a mess...you should've just left it alone and swapped the motor in and be done with.

 

Yahtzee! Problem solved.

New timing belt, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, front and rear crank seals, and no evidence of a head gasket leak. Compression is good. Motor sounds good. New knock sensor. Used the old throttle body, intake manifold, compressor, power stearing pump. Cleaned the thermostat housing before I swapped it. New thermostat and gasket. Used the old vtec solenoid.

Car cost a hundred bucks plus about $700 in parts to fix the body. Old motor was fine till my Son blew it up. Its now a $1,600 car. 128k.