Few have done it in Honda chassis... any thoughts or personal experiences? I see all pros to having a dual master for front and rear brakes with an adjustable bias bar, along with floor mounted pedals being more ergonomic (could be debated). You can eliminate the brake booster, which many do in the Honda community for show. However many cars in time attack eliminate the booster and run a proper sized master. The benefit of the pedal box is adjustable ratios.

600-Series 3-Pedal Floor Mount Assembly - Tilton Engineering

Now I have seen both versions used with the master cylinders up front, and then ones with them in the rear. Obviously up front you raise your floor height but can mount the box further against the firewall. Thoughts on this?

 

I've been thinking on it for a while. I feel that 80% of the value is in the balance bar/dual masters, 20% in the ergo. I'd love to do a floor mount setup but I don't really want to open the can of worms that ends with me moving the seat, fab'ing a new steering column, etc. the compromise that I have stumbled on is this:

https://enmoracing.wordpress.com/201...r-brake-setup/

 

@spAdam, I also stumbled across that same dual master setup but I couldn't find any other info on where it came from. I see the link you have suggests their other site and so I contacted them for more info. The data on their site looks to be from 2011, so I'm not sure if it's still available. I've been considering the same idea of how to mount dual masters with a balance bar and my current design is to replace the stock hanging pedal with a Tilton or Wilwood hanging dual master pedal with the masters installed inside the engine bay. Of course the firewall will need additional structural reinforcement to reduce the flex. I did find a similar dual mount on eBay. Look for seller brakedoppler. It's in Brazil so shipping is a bit, but it's a simple/clean design. There are others available in the UK but they seem to be big steel boxes with sloppy welded seams. The concern about any of these firewall mounts is going to be how far they protrude into the engine bay, There may be issues with that. Another simpler design is to use the current single master with your choice of block of plates and use an adjustable prop valve or two. I don't like the idea of a single stage master with a T for front and rear, so I'm sticking with the Dual setup. Let us know what you come up with and I'll do the same. I'm probably 8 to 12 months away from starting my swap.