I am only making this thread because of the lack of information that I could find out there (if you know of some please direct me). I am documenting my progress so maybe someone can help me solve the issue, or maybe this thread can help someone solve their issue in the future.

Background: CC did not work when I bought the car. The car had a d16z6, which I swapped out for ls/vtec. Currently trying to fix the CC. Cluster has been modified with LED's and the SRS bulb punched out (last owner). Air bags are not hooked up currently.

Red - Updates

So far:
Replaced Clock Spring
Checked Dash button for continuity - Good but no light
Cluster does not turn on CC light
Checked Cluster CC bulb - seems good.
Installed missing Clutch Interlock Switch
Installed missing plastic stoppers that press the clutch switch and clutch interlock switch (red arrows in pictures)
Plugged in airbags - No noticeable difference
Replaced CC buttons on steering wheel - No noticeable difference
Checked Relevant Fuses - All good
Checked Power to Main Switch - 12v
Tested Functionality of Main Switch - Good
Tested Continuity of Black wire to main switch - Good




Current thoughts:
Is SRS functionality necessary for CC functionality? I am told that the two systems are independent (RonJ)
Is the condition of the cluster effecting the CC?
Is the chipped p75 ecu effecting the CC?

 

Did you adjust lower CC switch position so that it's fully depressed by the plastic stopper when the pedal is not pushed down?

Have you verified that all CC components under the hood are present, as well as the CC control unit under the dash?

 

Yes

Yes, as far as I can tell to my knowledge. The CC unit under the dash is there as well.

Thank you for helping with ideas.

 

More resources for the next guy who needs it:

This is what the clutch looks like under the dash

#1 is the clutch switch (This tells CC when the pedal is up)
#2 is the clutch interlock switch (This tells the ecu if the clutch is pressed down - So you cannot start the car without pressing the clutch)



Wires for #1 are pink and black. Wires for #2 are black and blue/black

 

Just found some great information posted by you on another site at this link : 95 ex cruise control - HondaCivicForum.com

I will have to go through that stuff next.

Ron, would you happen to know whether a not-operational SRS system would cause the CC to fail?

 

This Link - (OEM Cruise Control Swap) is also full of information that I am sure I will be able to use during testing (even though its a walk through on installing CC).

 

Do you have the service manual for your car?

Have you checked the CC fuses?

The SRS and CC systems are independent. However, both have wires that pass through the cable reel, which is a common source of problems.

 

I do have a helms manual. I checked the CC fuses under the dash, but then read that there is one under the hood as well. I will be checking that one next.

It is really good to know that they are independent because I think my SRS is really screwed up.

 

Fix the SRS light and then pull the SRS codes. See the Codes sticky at the top of the forum.

Does the CC light in the main switch illuminate when you press it?

Check the fuses like this:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...fuses-3079359/

 

I will update you on the fuse situation.

The CC light on the main switch does not light up. However, I tested it and the switch does seem to work still.

 

Unplug the connector from the main switch.

Turn key to ON(II).

Use a multimeter to measure voltage to body ground at the Blk/Yel wire pin in the connector.

What's the reading?

 

12V (13V for a second). Also I checked all the fuses and they are all good.

 

The light bulb in the main switch may be blown. Did you test the switch?

 

Yes, I tested the switch and it works.

 

For the moment, focus on determining why the switch light does not illuminate when you press the switch button.

What you already know --> The switch gets voltage from fuse 24.

Next Test:

1. Turn key OFF.
2. Unplug the connector at the rear of the switch.
3. Use a multimeter to test for continuity to body ground at the black wire pin (C) in the connector.
4. Does the black wire have ground?

 

Yes the black wire to the main switch tested positive for continuity

 

Check whether the bulb inside the switch is blown. If so, replace it.

After you have the button light working, do the test below.

1) Press main switch on (light illuminated).
2) Unplug connector to CC control unit.
3) Measure voltage to ground at the Lt Grn wire pin and also at the Blk/Yel wire pin.
4) Post the two voltage readings.

 

I replaced the light (I used one from the rear defroster switch since I didnt have extra). I did the test you described and I got 12V at both Lt Grn and Blk/Yel.

 

Does the light in the main switch now work?

The voltages at the CC control unit connector look good.

 

Yes the light on the main switch now works.

 

Post the CEL codes stored in the ECU.

 

I don't have a CEL light on. The only one that comes on occasionally is for IAT sensor.

 

Does the speedometer work?

Do all of the input tests, starting with numbers 5, 8, and 9:

 

Does the horn work? Serious.

 

Yes, that is why I originally replaced the clock spring.