Oh geez, don't use the US VIN decoders for CDM cars. Plug the VIN into torontohondaparts to get the real model designation.

Sure if an Integra had an ELD then yeah it will fit your Civic's ... but really, why? Will take some annoying rewiring to get it all to work. Just use the CDM ECU from that Si Coupe you have.

 

This isn't for my car.

The SI I have now is a manual and will be going into my car. My wife's car is an automatic and even if I chip the P06 ecu, it's my understanding the shifting won't be right with the USDM EX/SI Z6 Auto tranny. She needs an autotragic unfortunately.

Guy is selling the whole set, engine, auto tranny and USDM ecu. That is if he ever gets back to me.

I get the feeling there is more than just wiring to the ECU from the hood fuse box..... Would there be changes to the alternator too?

 

A lot of '92 - '95 Civics were built in Alliston Ontario both for Canada and the US, Some of the USDM/CDM sedans were actually built in Japan, they're to the specs of the country they're being sold in.

Does the car have power windows and locks? On the USDM EX had these.

 

It'll shift fine. There's very little in the way of electronics on that transmission. Just two lockup solenoids. '96 - '00 wont shift right because there are main and countershaft speed sensors and the ECU can tell they aren't spinning at the speeds they're supposed to in relation to each other which causes some funky shifting and will throw an incorrect gear ratio code. You're actually better off using a D15B7 auto trans if you're building it for power due to it's lower overdrive. This the opposite of the manual version of these transmissions.

You would need to change the alternator and the plug.

I would buy the swap and just get an automatic P28 and then sell your USDM ECU on ebay or through the H-T marketplace. It's a lot less work.

 

And if you're having trouble finding a CDM P28 Autotragic ECU, I am quite sure I can sort something out for you now that I'm back in Canada. Though I haven't been to the local yards yet to see what's there, there's usually a mountain of Civics.

 

Yes please, help with a CDM P28 Autotragic ECU would be very helpful.

The only self service yard out my way has slim pickings and has nothing and the other salvage yards that sell parts charge an arm and a leg for ECU's.

Cheap used parts are becoming harder to come by out in the GVR.

Guy got back to me, and the motor tranny ecu is sold. So I'll be going for just a D16Z6 motor, keep her B7 auto tranny which is in great shape and so will just need the ECU.

To tie up the end of this thread I'll recap the recent additions.

The 94-97 Integra ELD unit will fit into the 92-95 CDM fuse box if you need the ELD unit if you bought a CDM fuse box, or you bought a USDM car but only have CDM fuse boxes available around you.

If you are trying to add ELD because you bought a USDM ECU for your CDM car, you will not only need to add the ELD, but you need the plug for the ELD, and change the plug on the alternator wire harness, as well as run wiring from the fuse box to the ecu and also I believe the ECU to the alternator for the new plug. And a new USDM alternator. A whole wheelbarrow of work.

If anything, if you bought a USDM OBD1 ECU, it might be easier and cheaper to chip the ECU and turn off the ELD requirement.

 

Here yah go. Straight from Saskatchewan. PM me.

 

Slightly off topic - WTF does the ELD do?

And whey does it only do it in the US and Japan - not in Canada?

 

It would appear it modulates the alternator output in the interest of fuel economy: Honda-ELD

 

Given the effect on headlights according to that article, *maybe* it has to do with DRLs on Canadian market cars?

However, I've retrofit OEM DRLs on my originally-USDM-but-imported-to-Canada-around-2002ish 1993 Civic Si, with no issue of flickering. Certainly not that I've noticed.

 

Thank you! Interesting how the CDM w/ DLR makes that kind of change to the vehicle.

I have some issue either with ELD or alternator as I am seeing 12.5 volts at battery w/ AC on - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...276594/page23/

 

 

Seems a little overly complicated, what about letting the voltage regulator do its job?

The VR be all like, "okay, we need some juice down there!" Then it be all like "Das enough".

Now the VR is sitting there feeling all diminished and downsized, like "I used to have real responsibilities, now I got this ELD making all the decisions for me!"

 

So what kind of gas mileage are those Canadian EGs w/ DLRs and no ELD making?

 

A voltage regulator doesn't control current only voltage.

The ELD is going to manipulate current. More current at a certain voltage is more watts (power). The idea is that the voltage should stay at 12 volts constantly, what is supposed to vary is the current draw on the system as more or less items start drawing power (watts).

What the voltage regulator is doing is removing as much of the ripple out of the converted wave from the generator (alternator) after the bridge rectifier has turned the negative wave into another positive hump. It's typically the last stage of AC to DC conversion.

 

Thanks TC.

What you say makes sense, but I think it is clear that my system is having issues if I am only getting 12.5 volts at the battery with things like AC turned on.

I feel dumb all over again...

 

You do realize that it's a 12 volt battery. Granted, the alternator does tend to jump voltage up a little to 13.5 volts or so when heavily loaded. But your battery staying at 12 volts as a 12 volt battery when heavily loaded does not necessarily mean something is wrong.

 

Sorry, I am drifting topics among threads.I am having issues with my AC stopping working as battery voltage goes below 12.5, with engine running. Then I will put the car on a trickle charger where it will pull 6 amps after driving, and then the AC will work again.

Rinse, wash, repeat - getting old...

 

Have you had the alternator tested? Sounds to me like the alternator is getting old and not working properly as it's not charging or supporting the systems.

If the alternator tests out or has been ruled out, then it sounds like a short in the AC portion of the circuit that excessively drains the battery during operation and over taxes the alternator.

 

Back to this thread...

Replace alternator and battery - all is fine with the vehicle.

What I am trying to figure out now is where is a safe place in the vehicle wiring to add wiring to power a vehicle fridge. Fridge is rated at 40 watts. So at 12.5 volts, that would be 3.2 amps.

I would like to make this circuit live all the time, not sure if I can do that, but I want to make sure I tap off the correct orientation so the ELD can manage the charging system correctly with this added wiring. In our Land Cruisers we just go straight to the battery and let the VR deal with the load. It does not sound that simple here...

 

This is a great post and picture. I am trying to figure where to tap in here for my fridge circuit. I cannot tell exactly what circuits run through the ELD.

It looks like the metal bracket might bypass the ELD and go from Alternator to Ign Switch (and Bat)?

Am I seeing things correctly that 41 - Power Distribution - bridges the Bat and Alternator?

 

This thread is useful!

Is the metal bracket going from 39 (Ign Switch) to Alternator the same as used in USDM? It just goes over the ELD?

Thanks.

 

Bumping this question...

 

Hello buddy, Bilbao, Spain, 20/12/2018.

thank you for help me 😊🤘🏾