heres the link https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...adband-517274/

all I had to do was google search it

dont use the fmu, fmu is a hack to raise your fuel pressure based on boost but its innacurate. you wouldnt use it with hondata any way. but toss the fmu and get tuned on hondata

 

yea they are popular with cobalts do you know which housing he was using? 19 PSI seems to be its sweet spot seen a few builds that ended up at 19

im looking for about 400 give or take, I have the .55 A/R

 

no idea. i know it did have a 3" exhaust tho.

 

Wow bro thanks that is a gold mine and thanks for the tips on the FMU @s2kdrift

 

I love the S256 and used to push it really hard to anyone looking for a responsive, tank of a turbo that will make 450-550whp reliably.

The setup was a 9.8:1 forged, stock sleeve B18a with a GSR head. It was on an SLS Prototype manifold with 3" dp, exhaust and 2.5" charge piping.

On 16psi (wg pressure) - 385whp/285wtq on corn. I was having boost controller issues at the time and it spiked to 26psi once and untuned it made 502whp, so there's a lot left in the turbo. Soon after, i bought an 06 STi and sold the GSR to my buddy. He still has it - with the same setup and all. This summer we have plans to retune (since its been like 7 years) and try make 450-ish out of it on e85. All in all, i'd suggest the S256 if you're looking to make 400-500ish whp. The kicker is going to be the fuel you're using.

 

What about the S252

 

S252 is rated 50 HP lower so it should have faster spool with slightly less HP.


I actually have the B252, which is supposed to have the spool of the s252 (or faster) with the flow of a s256. Just cant find anyone that has actually ran it at least on a honda, only a guy was on D series that made 390. Seems to spool pretty quick, Ive heard of cobalts making 500 to the wheels so hopefully its all good. Still gotta get tuned, Im just replacing cap, rotor, coil OEM, and installing ATI pulley and cam gears

 

Do you have a link to your B252? Never heard of it

Edit: yikes, GTX price range

 

Yep LOL

 

Sooo........


Ive been thinkin bout trying to sell my SI. Using that money towards a s2000 or a e46 m3. After lookin at the specs for the m3. ***** pretty badass. Individual throttle bodies, revs to 8k, weights bout 3500lbs. Diff can hold bout 350 or so pounds of torque. Cheaper in price over s2000. And the best thing, its a better suitable old man car for when i get older.

 

**** man, it has itbs and is less than the s2k? What?

As far as suitability goes, space wise yes. Brand name and looks wise, debatable. Down here in Socal there are quite a few s2ks, and honestly the driver base is split pretty 50/50 from what I've seen. 50% are usually younger (asians) with nice tuned projects, and the other 50% is usually older white males. No shame in driving one when you're older

I'm assuming you will probably do some mods to either, so then I guess it comes down to the long terms goals and whatnot. F20c is hard to beat when boost though

 

Ok but those e46s are pretty badass though too..

 

what thermostat goes well on a 400-500 hp turbocharged car, is the OEM thermostat ok?

Lsvtec fully built
borg warner s360
mishimoto 3row radiator half size

E85

 

OEM thermo is NOT ok...doesn't tell you that your engine is overheating until it's too late.

 

 

Oem thermos is fine. Thats what i run. And im over 400whp.

 

??? Really?
Well ****, all the older Hondas I've been in have had kinda fucked thermos, albeit that's just from a few I've seen.

But hey, if they so go for it, and you have a properly functioning thermo go for it

 

Sounds like your talking about the stock temp gauge...which is actually true. ECT sensor is far more accurate which you can read through hondata or whatever EMS you are using.

Thermostat, stock is best low temp thermostats do nothing

 

Tx was having a debate about my build, wanted a OEM, but someone said get low thermo and i was very skeptical

 

OEM is fine. I'm at 530whp on OEM thermostat. Geis might be thinking of the OEM Gauge needle used for water.

OEM has been fine for 20 years of turbocharging. Stick with that, and you'll be fine.

 

all they do is put additional stress on bearings etc since it takes longer to warm up....Saw a thread on the hondata forum which stated

"whats the difference between a 60c thermo and a 70c once your vehicle is at operating temp?"

 

Stick to OEM. Every time ive used a none OEM tstat from Honda, I've had issues.

 

Apologies for my misinformation

 

Got a random text to make some pulls yesterday lol. His 200 shot didn't fire so just a good video.

 

Lol, was that without brake boosting.