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Oh, need tires like now. Never bought 13's before, suggestions?
Michelin Defender (175/70 R13). They're an LRR tire. Keep your wheels. They're the lightest Honda made weighing in just over 9lbs each.
If you really want to mod your VX do the suspension. Get a nice set of shocks/springs and lower it 1.5-2". You can add a front and rear anti-sway bars for better handling (for when the car finally gets up to 65mph) and a rear disc conversion. None of that will make the car faster, but it will make it more fun to drive.
should you want to upgrade wheels to 14" in the future for better tire sizing (yes, you can still go for a spirited drive in the vx), look for a set of hx wheels. not much heavier (around 2lbs), much better tire selection. the problem you run into with 13's is that they are not a common size any more, and the cars that do run them are nowhere near performance cars... you get a lot of very shitty, very generic tread pattern, very generic tires.
A buddy of mine actually hooked up his VX. Trans, EX mani, Intake, exhaust, tune, etc.
He got a whole whopping 68whp...(clutch slippage)
It later progressed, new clutch, in addition a Greddy turbo kit and retune, but overall it turned out to be a nice little ride and a good learning curve.
I think a GS-R swap would have came out about the same HP wise, but sometimes ya work with what ya got, and just make the best of it. Not everyone has $3-5k to shell out on a quick motor swap.
EGs are getting rarer and rarer now a days, and it's a nice car if done right.
IMO, If it aint broke dont fix it up and wait/save up for a nice motor swap upgrade.
Well went to get it inspected yesterday and everything went as planned. Needed 2 tires and of course they found the holes in the exhaust Got a rejection sticker and have 15 days to get the car fixed and re-inspected. I bought the tires ($55 each plus a **** ton in fees) and the exhaust should be here in a few days so that will be taken care of.
On to new problems. It's cranking but not firing now. Started yesterday and went on for about 30 minutes before it decided to start like nothing ever happened. I fiddled around under the hood and cleaned under the cap and checked the rotor while I was there. I checked all the grounds I could see right off, everything looks normal. It just cranks and wont start. It has a super strong turn over, it's not struggling at all so it's not the starter or battery. I thought it might be the fuel system so I misted some brake clean (all I had on hand) into the intake while my wife cranked it to see if that was it and that did nothing. I bought a new fuel filter for it yesterday and will be putting it on today in the off chance that it is the problem. 255k miles there has been a lot of fuel through that thing, might be clogged. I changed the plugs day before yesterday so that's not it and the wires look new.
One last question: I was checking the air filter and there was a decent amount of debris in the filter box. I could hear more BS rattling around in the airbox so I went ahead and removed it and dumped it out. After looking at it and how big it was I really didn't want to put it back in so I tossed it in the trunk. Do I need to keep it for any reason or can I just toss it? Is it something that someones going to want? There isn't honestly 5mpg locked up in that resonator somehow is there, it's just trash right?
Can a mod please change the title of my thread? I tried to change it myself but all it did was change the description under the title.
Well I got the new fuel filter in and after about 10 second of it turning over it fired right up ran great and seems "right". One thing I did notice however is that the side going TO the fuel rail had fuel in it, but the side GOING INTO the filter was bone dry. Any thoughts on that? Is there a drainback valve in the filter that might have failed in the old one?
Last edited by H23_del_soul; May 12, 2016 at 12:28 PM.
I would prefer it to stay here actually. I have a few questions about swapping out the intake and exhaust manifold. Not looking for crazy HP gains but I would like to clean up the engine bay and if I can get a teeny tiny little bit of power than so be it
I would prefer it to stay here actually. I have a few questions about swapping out the intake and exhaust manifold. Not looking for crazy HP gains but I would like to clean up the engine bay and if I can get a teeny tiny little bit of power than so be it
You don't even read what people post. You ask questions you don't want answers to and you've posted more pictures of your car being cleaned then most people post on an entire appearance build.
There's no tech here. Just you garbage posting about your car.
And good luck with the exhaust manifold. Maybe someone will tell you why that won't work. Maybe you'll listen when they do. Probably not though.
Re: 93 VX - cheap stage 2 or 3 clutch/flywheel and rear glass shocks
Originally Posted by eHMxhACk
you've posted more pictures of your car being cleaned then most people post on an entire appearance build.
How bout go **** yourself. Where I come from people like pictures and I'm proud of the work I've done to my vehicle thus far. This is work I've done the days after I bought it, not over the weekend years after I've owned it. I listen to the answers but I am also reading up on my own and it seems that the d series heads are all the same and that people are reporting gains with the intake manifold swap. It seems like something cheap and easy I could do for 1HP and at the same time swap out the gaskets, clean out the mani, and check for any other issues for just a couple of bucks. I didn't see any harm in it and you don't seem to be offering any real help other than telling me what I'm doing wrong.
So I have to ask, how would swapping out the intake and exhaust mani (if they even do fit) hurt my gas mileage? I was able to locate a set of rear hatch shocks on ebay with the mounts and everything so I'm good to go there thankfully! If you guys would tell me what I'm doing wrong and why it's wrong then maybe I would understand, but all I keep hearing is "no" so I ignore it.
How bout go **** yourself. Where I come from people like pictures and I'm proud of the work I've done to my vehicle thus far. This is work I've done the days after I bought it, not over the weekend years after I've owned it. I listen to the answers but I am also reading up on my own and it seems that the d series heads are all the same and that people are reporting gains with the intake manifold swap. It seems like something cheap and easy I could do for 1HP and at the same time swap out the gaskets, clean out the mani, and check for any other issues for just a couple of bucks. I didn't see any harm in it and you don't seem to be offering any real help other than telling me what I'm doing wrong.
Originally Posted by H23_del_soul
So I have to ask, how would swapping out the intake and exhaust mani (if they even do fit) hurt my gas mileage? I was able to locate a set of rear hatch shocks on ebay with the mounts and everything so I'm good to go there thankfully! If you guys would tell me what I'm doing wrong and why it's wrong then maybe I would understand, but all I keep hearing is "no" so I ignore it.
Here's a hint; read page 2 of your thread. If you can't find the why, read it again.
So I have to ask, how would swapping out the intake and exhaust mani (if they even do fit) hurt my gas mileage?
The whole thing is a very complex system. Swapping out the manifold is going to change the efficiency designed into the system by Honda and counter act the programming that Honda put into the ECU.
This motor is not designed for power, it is designed for a lean burn and has the wide band O2 sensor etc.
Changing anything intake, exhaust or engine wise will only defeat the design that Honda built for fuel economy.
It's not that you can't get more power out of the motor, you can with the help of over 500-1000 bucks worth of tuning and tuning hardware but you will be sacrificing one of the MOST fuel efficient motors designed.
In 92 and 93 Honda reached 50+ MPG which is what others are just now getting with things like skyactive. And it's not totally gutless with it's 70+ HP unlike the 3 banger geo metro etc.
The point that has been made is if you modify the car you will actually lose value to the car.. And the mods without tuning can actually detract from the performance as the balance of air flow, resistance etc etc changes. This motor is a finely balanced piece of art. Changes to the scavenging can have a negative impact, changes to the intake air flow can have a negative effect, etc. Like I said, it's a complex system and changing it can change absolutely everything, and not in a good way.
Do to it what you will but modding it like you would any other DX or CX is just spitting in the face of a beautiful creation and it's creator.
re: 93 VX - Cleanup - Appearance Pic Heavy
Got a rejection sticker and have 15 days to get the car fixed and re-inspected. I bought the tires ($55 each plus a **** ton in fees) and the exhaust should be here in a few days so that will be taken care of.
ran great and seems "right". One thing I did notice however is that the side going TO the fuel rail had fuel in it, but the side GOING INTO the filter was bone dry. Any thoughts on that? Is there a drainback valve in the filter that might have failed in the old one?
