When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks guys , with the winter here and the car is in storage . Thought I would give a few shoots of the progress and some encouragement until the car comes back out in April but with twins on the way in April don't know how things will go down .
Ta techniks, I was just think of a softer spring in the coilovers because it the slammed at the min with still a gap in the wheel arch !
And when you say upgrade brakes do you mean putting discs in the back brakes as it is on drum??
Ta techniks, I was just think of a softer spring in the coilovers because it the slammed at the min with still a gap in the wheel arch !
And when you say upgrade brakes do you mean putting discs in the back brakes as it is on drum??
Yeah, that's definitely one of your bargain basement coilover packages there. A decent coilover package will set you back around $1000 (USD), and will offer far more in terms of ride comfort, adjustability, and performance. A softer spring won't really accomplish anything other then changing the handling characteristics and ride quality (probably for the worse on something like what you have). Changing the spring height, would accomplish lowering the car... but I wouldn't bother on those coilovers.
As for brake upgrades, it'll entirely depend on your budget. Seeing as though you've been pretty limited on spending much thus far (based on your coilover and wheel choices), changing out the pads, brake fluid, and throwing some stainless brake lines on will firm up the braking capacity and reduce brake fade. As for swapping out the rear drums for discs, you could do that... but keep in mind that your rear brakes at most do only 30% of the vehicles overall braking.
I am looking to build this car on a full time college and part time work so money is tight as you might be able to imagine, I know all the proper ways things should be done , I joined this forum to try get some tricks and tips on how to make my car look the best it can with what I got.
I am looking to build this car on a full time college and part time work so money is tight as you might be able to imagine, I know all the proper ways things should be done , I joined this forum to try get some tricks and tips on how to make my car look the best it can with what I got.
Well, since you're on a budget, I'd suggest the following:
1. Get used to buying second hand. Namebrand parts can come at a huge savings, if bought second hand. For example, a set of original wheels (not knock-off's) can be had for a fraction of the cost... and typically at the same price point as your modern day knock-off costs new. And, the added benefit of having a much nicer quality product will come along with the style you're trying to achieve.
2. Look at similar platforms for used parts. You can snag a set of nicer coilovers off of an EP3 or DC5 without having to modify much (if anything) on your car to run them. This can also be said for brake upgrades, and other various interior bits that are cross-platform.
3. Save money for big ticket items. When it boils down to it, quality still costs money. The cheap shortcuts out there always look like cheap shortcuts, and the only person fooled by them... is yourself. (Not making a direct attack at you, just making a broad statement.)
Well, since you're on a budget, I'd suggest the following:
1. Get used to buying second hand. Namebrand parts can come at a huge savings, if bought second hand. For example, a set of original wheels (not knock-off's) can be had for a fraction of the cost... and typically at the same price point as your modern day knock-off costs new. And, the added benefit of having a much nicer quality product will come along with the style you're trying to achieve.
2. Look at similar platforms for used parts. You can snag a set of nicer coilovers off of an EP3 or DC5 without having to modify much (if anything) on your car to run them. This can also be said for brake upgrades, and other various interior bits that are cross-platform.
3. Save money for big ticket items. When it boils down to it, quality still costs money. The cheap shortcuts out there always look like cheap shortcuts, and the only person fooled by them... is yourself. (Not making a direct attack at you, just making a broad statement.)
Thats really helpful man there are alot more dc5s around then es2s thanks!
I like the jr3 wheel tho not the most expensive but still turns heads, what other wheels can you think of that suit the car better??
I have started saving for D2 Racing Sports TÜV Coilovers.
For the moment i need something to go bit lower , i know you wouldnt recommend softer springs but at the minute my suspension is very very hard (because of my cheap coilys) so i was think that softer rather then sorter would be good.
Thats really helpful man there are alot more dc5s around then es2s thanks!
I like the jr3 wheel tho not the most expensive but still turns heads, what other wheels can you think of that suit the car better??
I have started saving for D2 Racing Sports TÜV Coilovers.
For the moment i need something to go bit lower , i know you wouldnt recommend softer springs but at the minute my suspension is very very hard (because of my cheap coilys) so i was think that softer rather then sorter would be good.
The JR3's are knock-off's of the Volk TE37's. The design is great, but I wouldn't buy a cut-rate knock-off if I could afford a used version of the original design (plus they're a far superior wheel quality).
Those D2's won't be much of an upgrade, to be fair. They're still Chinese-manufactured, like the rest of the Function & Form, K-Sport, Megan Racing, Raceland, Rokkor, and several other brands... all from the same Chinese manufacturer, just with different anodizing and stickers on them. Since you're nearer to Germany then I, I would try and source a used set of KW coilovers. They're going to really function well, no matter what you throw at them.
As for your current coilovers, do you happen to know the spring rates on the coils? If they're less then 10 kg/mm, you're already on the side of being "too soft" for the car. So, going softer may actually prove to make the car worse. As for the current ride quality, you may just be experiencing the poor quality dampers used in the coilovers.
I will start searching see if I can find a set of KW coilovers !
As for my coilovers I am not too sure what the rates of the coils are I will check the box or ring the people I got them off .
And if there are too hard is 10kg/mm the softest I can go ?? What rate would you recommend as it a very light car ?
I will start searching see if I can find a set of KW coilovers !
As for my coilovers I am not too sure what the rates of the coils are I will check the box or ring the people I got them off .
And if there are too hard is 10kg/mm the softest I can go ?? What rate would you recommend as it a very light car ?
I wouldn't get much less then 9kg/mm because then it'll respond rather sluggish around turns, creating excess body roll.
"16 stage dampening system"... yeah, another cheap coilover from China with a random number of "clicks" on the adjustment of the rebound control of the damper. The number is arbitrary, as they never specify how many actual revolutions the **** will make.
Personally speaking, they seem like the kind of mid to low grade coilover you'd get from several manufacturers coming from the same Chinese plant (Function&Form, D2, K-Sport, Megan, Rokkor, Raceland, and several others).
Re: ► Official EM2/ES1/ES2 Picture Thread (1.1)
