Hello,

I just rebuild my engine, it's a B16A2 (EDM DOHC Vtec from an EG6) swap in an EJ2 where was done:

Full engine gasket honda

Acl stock bearing

Water pump and timing belt

Hastings piston ring

Skunk2 valve stem seal

Valve grinding

The cylinder where honed with a simple drill hone, just a little as I already see the original cross pattern.

The oil light is blinking when the idle drop to 650rpm (breaking and steering), so I think about an oil pressure problem
I just recently installed an oil pressure and It showed:

-350kpa when cold

-200kpa at about 3000rpm when warm

-430kpa above 4300rpm then it didn't go up any more (relief valve?)

-10-30kpa at idle 800rpm when it is warm..

Here is the engine noise when it's really cold, it's amplified, we can't here that so loud for real, the sound could be hear more by the wheel driver side..



Here is one when warm :

From inside (this i where i can the mostly hear it, and from the driver side wheel)


Where could came that oil pressure issue?
I read that it could lead from a spun bearing, but that noise is from the first start so I don't know, everything was good as I can measure it.

I just check the clearance, i have 0.038mm for the worst (main bearing) one so i think it's not that bad...

I've done the valve latch adjustment 4 times for the noise, didn't help at all, i think it's a LMA issue, but that isn't the most important problem for the moment.

The seal on the head and the dowel pin is welle put in, but the seal in my mind was a little "flush", i'll replace it asap.


Could something clogged it in the engine?
Do you know where i could find the "oil circuit diagram" on something to help me understand the oil circuit from the pump to the sump?

Thanks for your help

 

Is the oil screen clogged?

Did you replace the oil pump?

 

Hi,

the pick-up was cleaned 3 times, the first times it was a dirt, second times very clean, and third times absolutely to near nothing. The oil pick-up seal and oil pump seal is new.

I replace the oil pump by an used (yeah bad..) B18C oil pum, i just check the clearance, it was good to, no scored or something else. In here the oil pump cost 350$ so i try to found where it would cost less...

 

I nice cluster

 

Hello.

Anymore idea ? The bearing clearance is good, I'm going to change the seal under the cam caps, but could it came from here ?

If not what could be the problem ?

 

How many miles were on the oil pump, can you even be sure? I got an oil psi gauge for first start and afterwards for this very reason, im reusing a 250k km oil pump.

Did you clean all the oil galleys? Iirc They're in the block/head casting so they're a pita to get to but I blew all of mine out with compressed air and sprayed them all thoroughly with chlorine free beak cleaner

 

I don't know how many miles where on the pump but I fully disassemble it, clean and fill it with oil before putting it back.

What did you call the oil galleys ? Is it the oil piston sprayer? It just thought about it, screw them out and test them maybe :/

Thanks

 

Yes, compressed air from a shop compressor will really help!

 

WOW never heard of that oil galleys..... I didn't found a lot of picture in my recent search... Neither in the workshop too :/

I was thinking about the oil sprayer too but that pretty strange as its really when idling the oil didn't get any pressure, if the oil galleys where dirty the pressure should raise or the sensor is situated after these ?

Thanks a lot.

 

I think the oil galleys also include all the oil holes in the journals on both the head journals and the crank journals.

There is oil passages all throughout the head and the crank to get the oil from the pump to the bearings and rod squirters.

 

Oh hell... Didn't think about that when I was rebuilding since I didn't see it in the workshop and some rebuilding thread here :/

But if something clogged inside the head/bloc, then the oil pressure would raise, but my problem is that I have no pressure like 10-30kpa, so the oil is getting out somewhere I think ?

I will spray some compressed air inside from where I can as the engine is in the car...

The engine has like 5000km since the rebuild, the bearing where all good so it's not a lubricating issue ?

Thanks

 

Do you have any sort of oil filter sammich plate for an oil cooler or anything at all like that? I think you're right about a clog on the high pressure side of the pump, that would increase psi just like holding ur thumb over a garden hose increases the pressure that the water has. The only way a clog would cause the low psi if it's in the oil pick up but you said you cleaned that out really well..

How'd you hook up the oil psi gauge? I have mine set up where it'l prolly read low because i'm using a higher diameter tube for the pressure sensor. Maybe it's really not as bad and the gauge is reading low for a reason like that?

The oil light sometimes will come on with a stock oil pan if you're in a high G-force turn. I've noticed that a bunch of times. Did your oil light turn on in a situation like that or like, just crusing on a straight away or parked?

 

oil pressure going down when warm points to a mistake you probably made during assembly. i hear a knock, my money is on an improperly installed or undersized bearings. too much clearance= too much oil flowing past them= low pressure.

 

I have to agree with eghatch. Engine may have to come back apart. Double-check clearances with plasti-gauge.

 

sounds like it might be bearing clearance issues, I had the same sound on my first GSR

 

Have you tried using a thicker oil? Engines with looser clearances will run just fine with thicker oil. A lot of "built" engines with high cylinder pressures use loose clearances and thick oil so there is a greater cushion between metal parts.

 

Hello,

Thanks everybody for these answer hope that I'll find the issue

I only have an oil sandwich plate for measuring oil pressure and temperature, not oil radiator and the oem oil cooler where removed by plugging a simple thread I get from an another block.

The oil pressure gauge is an electronic one it's a new Zenky gauge.
The oil light just one time was lighting in a really fast corner, try only once.
It's lighting when the engine is fully warm at idle when just pressing brake, when the idle drop.

So the clearance was measured with green plastigage, it was 0.038mm for 1/2/4/5 and only 0.025 for the third one (it should be looser with this one :/ ) for the main bearing, didn't measure yet the rod bearing one,need some more time.

So I agree with your idea, oil just flowing freely somewhere but with that clearance, not by the main bearing...that sound a little more good as the crank isn't damaged.

I actually use 10w40 oil, when engine is cold (so oil is thicker) the oil pressure is really good...but that's not resolving my problem as my clearance is good.

So from where could it really flow so much ? At maybe how many losing clearance can I have a so bad pressure ?

 

Loose clearance on the cam journals? Maybe the caps need to be sized.

 

Hum, didn't measure it but there isn't any sign of wear :/

Just for my knowledge, cause it's my first rebuild, how can I "wrongly" place the bearing? Cause maybe that's the case, it seems like when I disassemble it so maybe.. ?

 

So here is the result, the rod bearing for 2 of them was really really bad... I forgot to said that with the rebuild, I thought I clean everything but I still found gravel... Yeah GRAVEL, in the oil pan...

I could see no damage above the bearing. The oil pump were replaced then...

Now with new bearing I got:
0.038mm for 1/2/4/5 main bearing and only 0.025 for 3 that's a little tight..
And for the rod I got 0.25 for 1/3/4 and 0.038 for 2

So that's good for these part ?

I put the valve cover and see the 3rd cam caps in the wrong side..... So the arrow pointing to the gearbox... The cam didn't seems scored but could I control the clearance with the cam cap ?

I just buy a brand new oil pump from the US, waiting for it but what else could give that probkem?

I'm close to 0psi at warm..
And the pressure grow up really smoothly but a little bit, 4.2 bar is the maximum value after 4000 to 5-6000...

Any idea ? I'm feeling so bad as its my first rebuild...

 

This is your first rodeo with a rebuild

I cannot take your word for it when you say I could see no damage above the bearing. The oil pump were replaced then...

pics

 

Yeah that's the good word x)

I replace the pump as i supsect it and i want to start with everything brand new to get no hasard. Going to buy one pair of em bearing for the 3rd one that is too much tight.

I've seen an other thing, i'm 100% sure that all piston is in the good side (arrow pointing the timing belt) and one The 1 rod, have the Number "2" written in the opposite side of the 3 other one.. I repeat that i'm 100% sure that it's in the correct side and i didn't get the press fit pin out.

Here is some pic i take during the work:




























Measure it under the car but easier to take a picture from this side











This one was kind of bad, but the crank wasn't damaged..





Here is the really really bad one.. the crank still not damaged, that's a surprise lol

 

No more idea.. ?

 

Its clear you need to measure your bearings for proper clearance, rebuild the rebuild.

 

The measure I just post was the one when I just re-change the bearing... It was under the car so the play should be a little looser for real ?

Still waiting for my oil pump, it's an obd2 Vtec type... Didn't find any obd1 in Stock so have to found a timing belt cover