Like someone said, it seems odd that the noise happened right after the shop did the work. Seems like cause and effect is pretty clearly related. Ofc it could just be a coincidence. If they're a really good shop then they might double check everything again.

 

I once performed a valve adjustment and upon start up and short idle seemed fine, drove it down to get some food and on the way home a horible chatter sound started coming from my head, sounded so damn bad im surprised i still drove it home limping, checked the lash and most intake valves were tight or closed all the way, seems the engines heat expanded the metal to where it made the nuts on the rockers tighter or something, i adjusted them back again and is very quite and has no chatter since nor has it happened again or after any valve lash adjustments i did after...

 

That's the life I want

I will check the part numbers with Honda when the LMAs turn up (I ordered them before starting this thread). Possibly they have sent me cheaper B16A ones but generally this guy is very good, and I specifically asked for B18CR. He did say I needed spring type though...

This has thrown up more issues than I was expecting. Hopefully I will get a chance to check the old LMAs this weekend. Either way it will go back to the shop to sort out

 

If you are 100% Sure the Valve lash is spot on and it is in fact the LMA's, than you don't have to worry about driving the vehicle around for a little, just drive without revving it up to vtec, since that's the only point of the LMAs is to dampen while vtec is engaged. Now if it's super loud at idle than just park it and tear into it

 

The LMA controls the center rocker arm so its not flopping around uncontrollably. The cam lobe is always riding on it. VTEC or not, it is always in use.

 

Pretty good pictorial and info here

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...d-lma-2536305/

 

is what I have been sent. They do have the spacer at the tapered end. But from some googling they don't seem to be the right part number, will check that with Honda...

 

Those are for 98-01 H22. B series have a spacers on both ends. Your parts guy cannot be trusted.

 

You're totally right, glad I checked. You're also right about the b18cr hydraulic type. In $NZ my options seem to be:

14820-P73-J01 - hydraulic, $60 each (correct for b18cr)

14820-PCB-305 - spring, $19 each (seem to be for "b series")

14820-PCB-003 - spring, $17 each, needs shim (for h22a)

Last option is dumb, not doing that. What's the latest opinions on the first two?

 

Skunk2 (what i have) or science of speed is a good alternative

 

OEM Type R (hydro) is the best bet!

 

Why is that? There is a lot of conflicting info. As 94eg said hydro are the correct for B18CR. But triple the price. Aftermarket options and common opinion seems to be that spring type are quieter and less prone to wear.

 

Triple the price but because there designed better than the GSR and B16. And its all a matter of amount of use because you cant just say the spring type are quieter because brand new ITR LMAS will be just as quiet as the spring ones and last just as long if used brand new imo.

 

Perhaps ask the question in the All Motor forum. See what people have experienced on oem or S2 spring LMAs with R or larger cams.

 

Most likely the shop adjusted the lash right but didn't tighten the polylock down tight enough and they have came loose and now are sloppy.

I think the beehive spring is the way to go, the hydro type have more moving parts to go bad.

I've shimmed the H22 springs before also, not long ago there was a lot more than $2 difference in them, it was like $4-$6 if I remember correctly. It made it worth it to me to just go buy some hardened washers for like a $1.

 

Hi sir sorry to bring this issue back.
i want to ask you. Did your ticking noise solved.

I face this issue also.
​​This is video record my ticking issue.
I record using microfon. i put microfon on vtc filter.
kindly please can you share experience did your noise ticking like this.
this ticking noise come when engine have load.
If i rev it during neutral gear this ticking noise not present.

​​​

 

I'm guessing you mean the high pitched creaking sound?

To my untrained ear that does not sound like LMAs/valve train. They would make the noise in neutral too.

Hope someone else can help!

 

Try starting your own thread this thread is over 5 years old! And also post in the K series forum.

 

This is a great example of why you should leave the valve adjustment alone. Unless you know what you're doing, even then, unless it's very noisy, I would leave them alone. Pretty sure Honda don't even have it as part of the service on some newer cars, even on the K series engines.