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Front side of connector. Use tiny flathead screwdriver used for eyeglasses to lift plastic tab that secures pin while simultaneously pulling wire rearward.
I wanted you to see this plug before I de-pin it. You say that I should de-pin the A11 and/or A24 Yel/Blk wires. According to the numbers in the corners of this connector it appears that the Yel/Blk wires are number 1 and 12 maybe? If I look at the number 11 end of the connector it has an orange-ish
wire and number 24 directly below it has no wire at all. Am I reading this right?
I did the de-pin and nothing changed. Since I have a "new" (used) ECM and I bought a new Main Relay, I decided to start from the top again and be sure of my findings. I am somewhat new to this type of troubleshooting so I thought maybe I missed something. So...back to the beginning. And apparently I did.
I started with the main relay as this post began with. I thought I remembered the fuse blowing. Apparently I was wrong. With the relay unplugged, and the injectors, IACV, and ECU plugged in, the fuse does NOT blow. I am turning the key all the way to start position. The engine spins and the fuse does NOT blow. I have read other posts but just to be sure, where should I go from here.
Sorry for my confusion. I will pay more attention! Thanks.
With the main relay plugged in and the connector unplugged the fuse does NOT blow. The starter does not turn over but I'm guessing it shouldn't with the connector unplugged.
I did the reconnect on connector C101 and took the cap off of C130. I tried starting the car. The engine turns over. I checked the fuse and it did NOT blow. It is still in tact. I did this twice.
3) Test each Blk/Yel wire pin in the 4 injector and the IACV connectors for continuity to body ground using a multimeter. At least one of the Blk/Yel wire pins should show continuity to body ground, indicating a short to ground.
I want to make sure that I did this test correctly. I placed the red probe into each connector, on the Blk/Yel wires. I placed the black wire against the firewall and also other places that I considered body grounded. Nothing. However, when I placed the black wire against the fuel rail or against the valve cover gasket I have continuity...to all the wires. I'm assuming (dangerous I know) that these parts are somehow linked to the harness? I am going to try the test again but wanted your input to make sure I am performing it correctly.
Thanks.
I checked all 4 injectors and the IACV using the (-) battery post as a ground. All bulk/yell wires show continuity to ground. This is the uncapped connector.
Success! I replaced the cap and BAM...the car started. So...what does that tell me? By the way, I have read your tag line at every post..."Don't guess. Troubleshoot." It has been a pain, but it sure works! I wouldn't be this far without your help. Thanks!
Success! I replaced the cap and BAM...the car started.
So...what does that tell me?
Maybe there was a short in the C116 cap. Any bent or damaged terminal prongs?
By the way, I have read your tag line at every post..."Don't guess. Troubleshoot." It has been a pain, but it sure works! I wouldn't be this far without your help. Thanks!
03-18-2016, 04:50 PM
re: 96 Civic - Blowing FI E/M fuse #44
