I will be home in about an hour so I will give that a try. Thanks.

 

To unpin the connector do I push down on the connector from the backside of the connector or the front?

 

How do I de-pin the connector? Do I use the screwdriver from the back of the connector or the front?

 

Front side of connector. Use tiny flathead screwdriver used for eyeglasses to lift plastic tab that secures pin while simultaneously pulling wire rearward.

 

I wanted you to see this plug before I de-pin it. You say that I should de-pin the A11 and/or A24 Yel/Blk wires. According to the numbers in the corners of this connector it appears that the Yel/Blk wires are number 1 and 12 maybe? If I look at the number 11 end of the connector it has an orange-ish

wire and number 24 directly below it has no wire at all. Am I reading this right?

 

The Yel/Blk wires on the right pin to A11 (top) and A24 (bottom).

The view shown in the diagram below is from the rear, wire side of the connector.

 

I did the de-pin and nothing changed. Since I have a "new" (used) ECM and I bought a new Main Relay, I decided to start from the top again and be sure of my findings. I am somewhat new to this type of troubleshooting so I thought maybe I missed something. So...back to the beginning. And apparently I did.

I started with the main relay as this post began with. I thought I remembered the fuse blowing. Apparently I was wrong. With the relay unplugged, and the injectors, IACV, and ECU plugged in, the fuse does NOT blow. I am turning the key all the way to start position. The engine spins and the fuse does NOT blow. I have read other posts but just to be sure, where should I go from here.

Sorry for my confusion. I will pay more attention! Thanks.

 

Reconnect the main relay and instead unplug connector C101. Does fuse 44 blow or not?

 

With the main relay plugged in and the connector unplugged the fuse does NOT blow. The starter does not turn over but I'm guessing it shouldn't with the connector unplugged.

 

Reconnect C101 and now remove the cap from junction connector C130. Does fuse 44 blow or not?

 

I did the reconnect on connector C101 and took the cap off of C130. I tried starting the car. The engine turns over. I checked the fuse and it did NOT blow. It is still in tact. I did this twice.

 

Put the cap back on C130.

Unplug all 4 injector connectors and the IACV connector. Does fuse 44 blow or not?

 

Cap back on c130, all 4 fuel injector connector unplugged and the IACV unplugged as well. Now the fuse DOES blow.

 

Good progress.

Next and possibly last test:

1) Uncap C130.

2) Unplug the 4 injectors and the IACV.

3) Test each Blk/Yel wire pin in the 4 injector and the IACV connectors for continuity to body ground using a multimeter. At least one of the Blk/Yel wire pins should show continuity to body ground, indicating a short to ground.

 

I want to make sure that I did this test correctly. I placed the red probe into each connector, on the Blk/Yel wires. I placed the black wire against the firewall and also other places that I considered body grounded. Nothing. However, when I placed the black wire against the fuel rail or against the valve cover gasket I have continuity...to all the wires. I'm assuming (dangerous I know) that these parts are somehow linked to the harness? I am going to try the test again but wanted your input to make sure I am performing it correctly.
Thanks.

 

Redo the tests as you described but use the (-) battery post as ground. Do all Blk/Yel wires have continuity to body ground?

Can you also post pictures of the inner side of the C130 cap and the uncapped C130 connector?

 

I will redo the test and post pictures this afternoon. Thanks!

 

I checked all 4 injectors and the IACV using the (-) battery post as a ground. All bulk/yell wires show continuity to ground. This is the uncapped connector.

 

Can you also post a picture of the inner side of the C130 cap?

Just to verify, the tests were done with C130 uncapped and the injectors and IACV unplugged. Correct?

Next test:

Recap C130.

Uncap C116. Does fuse 44 blow or not?

 

Sure.

 

Thanks. Move on to the C116 test (post 44). Hopefully it will pinpoint the short.

 

Bad weather here and no garage! I took the C116 cap off (that was a pain to get to) and the fuse does NOT blow.

 

Good progress.

If you recap C116, does the fuse blow? If so, do the next test below.

Uncap C116 and unplug the injectors and IACV.

At each unplugged connector (injectors and IACV), test again for continuity to body ground at the Yel/Blk wires. Post your results.

 

Success! I replaced the cap and BAM...the car started. So...what does that tell me? By the way, I have read your tag line at every post..."Don't guess. Troubleshoot." It has been a pain, but it sure works! I wouldn't be this far without your help. Thanks!

 

Maybe there was a short in the C116 cap. Any bent or damaged terminal prongs?

Good sticking with it!