1158.. how's the new Check valve?

 

Mark I



Mark III

 

I'll pull it off and check it after I get the tbelt set and tensioned properly. Car wasn't putting out any smoke on the dyno or on the ride home. Trust me I was looking.

 

I have that graph. Last pull with Mark I compare with Mark III. You can see how much quicker boost comes in. Unfortunately the plot is speed and not RPM. 300 ft/lb is achieved well before 5k rpm now. I just hope the motor isn't hurt.

 

So here is the graph. Again the tuner has work to do in the higher RPM tables so an increase in hp is expected assuming I don't have major engine issues.

 

Clean numbers man, powerband looking good

 

When you factor in that the Mark III running more boost than the Mark I spooled that much faster it's even more impressive.

You basically have a firsthand experience with and proof of how much wheel aerodynamics can change the behavior of a turbocharger. Especially with wheels that are basically the same size.

 

So I set the belt and just threw the crank pulley on but didn't bother hooking anything up. Started it up and sounds perfect. So it was the plastic cover making the noise. Since I have it tore apart I might as well replace the tbelt which is why I just half assed it so I could start the car up.

Outside possibility I can finish the tune on Fri depending on how quickly the parts arrive and how fast I'm able to put it back together.

 

Tuner, who was amazed by the Mark I version, was even more impressed by it. He was particularly impressed with how much quicker boost comes in. I can't wait to drive it.

 

So those new Toda gears...

 

Wow.. That's sexier than I imagined..

What ft/lbs did you set the bolts? It's not that important since the lock washer is stainless, but a good 9-13 should do the trick

 

I checked em but didn't try putting a lot of force on em. They seemed ok. I still haven't made the changes to the exhaust gear yet. I only let it run for a few seconds since I had no accessory belts on. Just long enough to verify the noise was gone. I just ordered a new belt and want to get a new spring/tensioner since I already have it apart. I'll be sure to check the bolts again tho.

And yeah I agree with you. They look even better than was expecting.

 

I wish the TODA gears had enough meat to run magnets for a trigger setup.

I suppose I could always re-anodize the GE gears. Although I'm trying to find a way to run something other than the T1 trigger because I plan to run a secondary tensioner which mounts where the T1 trigger usually goes. The standalone I'll be using supports an endless array of trigger setups and since I'm going COP I want to eliminate the distributor all together.

Seeing these results just reinforces why I want to run a TR3030R on my SR20. I already have a divided manifold and the kind of torque curve the turbo would make would give me a seriously potent chassis, especially since it weighs so little.

One day lol.

 

Is it a 240?
Was wondering why the turbo was purple, props OP

 

Those gears look slick as ****. Also, I hate it when dyno sheets use speed instead of RPM

 

I agree. I'm going to make sure when I go back to finish the tune the plot is in RPM.

 

I'm working on a way to do that to the TODA GEARS already. It's been done before on other gears outside of the GE on other COP setups that basically use a Hall Effect sensor.. The GEs are just pre-cut to accept the trigger, but we're finding that with the right equipment, its very doable.

I'm not buying GE gears just to run that stuff. I'll stick with the TODA RACING gears.

 

I personally would rather see a Boost Pressure /rpm curve and extrapolation than ANY of this other stuff. It's what helps make a better mouse trap during testing.

 

I just realized something that I think makes the Mark III even more impressive. Because the tuner didn't finish with the top end tables we never did a pull with the e-cutout open.

In the graphs above the red line was with the cutout open and the blue was with it closed. If I remember correctly we were seeing a 10-15 whp increase between cutout closed and open when the car was around 24 psi. I figure we should see at least that much gain with the cutout open.

 

Vids!

 

Well everything was cut short because of the noise that developed. I'll be going back to finish the tune and get a vid within the next week or two.

 

Your engine bay looks gorgeous

 

So for the love of me I cannot set TDC. I'm pulling my hair out cause I get it set on the crank sprocket/oil pump and then I put on the crank pulley and its off. I figure I keep screwing things up. So now I double check everything and make sure belt does not move at all.

Here is what crank pulley (ATI Street Damper) looks like with timing marks


Obviously something is wrong. The ATI has 16 marks (2 degrees a mark) so the first mark is after TDC is 0 degrees. At least that's what I thought and have used in the past.

So I pull off the pulley, again making sure no belt movements, and this is what I see on the crank sprocket/oil pump.


WTF is going on? Unless I'm going nuts that is TDC on the sprocket/oil pump, correct?

 

TDC is zero degrees. The mark after is 2 like you said. Looks right to me?

 

The TDC is actually a little after the mark, the only way I could get a good shot of it was at an angle. Maybe I'm just being overly paranoid but it seems off to me. I thought TDC was 0 too but if you count the lines there are 16 and after the last line there is a 30. So wouldn't that mean the first line is 0? Otherwise the number after the last mark would be 32.

What's FUBAR is I've had this pulley for 5 years lol and can't recall having this issue but maybe I did and just said its good lol.