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New to tuning, few questions on basemaps (installing plx AFR)
Hi everyone, I already used the search window/google, without results.
I recently installed the hondata s300v3 on my 92 civic, b16a2 engine, p30ecu.
I'm looking for a basemap that will work untill I have my wideband (just waiting the plx one).
The problem is that on the vault on smanager, there are few maps that sais "stock" but they are all different from each other even if they have same cc injectors ect.
Moreover I went on the crome database that seems a bit vaste of basemaps, and I found that under the "stock" voice they are basically the same, except for very little variation on fuel ignition tables. (however they seems to be leaner than the hondata ones).
Well, all of these maps however give me a problem:
If I go around 4,5K/5k stationary and then WOT, the engine esitate. I tried to add fuel and the problem seems to disappear a bit, but is still present. How is this possible with a stock map?
Before installing the hondata, the car ran good, and the set up is the same:
supersprint headers, no cat, and a k&n filter.
Someone can explain me why?
I'm learning so an argumentation would be great, and not just a "take it to your local tuner".
Thanks a lot and sorry for language errors.
Last edited by Cabletie; Aug 18, 2015 at 07:00 AM.
The problem seems due to the throttle tip in value, if I'm learning right. However I don't understand why in the stock basemaps the value is 0, and in some maps the vtec is at 4,8k rpm while with the stock ecu was around 5,5k rpm.
Someone have a real stock map?
I've used several tuning forums in the past and the basemaps are readily available. Just use one for a B16A and you'll be fine (whether it is a A, A2, A3, etc doesn't matter too much for a BASEMAP).
I'm not sure why Hondata doesn't have basemaps available. IIRC, my Neptune software just came with a ton of stock engine basemaps preloaded.
Hondata supposedly dyno tuned all the maps they provide. The problem is I don't think base timing was ever checked back then (over 10 years ago). Not only that but much has changed since then. Most people with the skills and equipment to make a solid current basemap aren't just going to give it away. You aren't going to ever get a "real" basemap. Modify what you are given or (uh oh, oh no he didn't) take it to your local tuner.
You need to get your wideband before you start screwing around. Ideally you would at least have an EGT as well. Read your plugs and continously check things over.
ok maybe I expressed myself wrong. I just would like, if someone has it, a stock p30 map, so i can use the car without issue untill I'll recieve my wideband.
Since is stock I don't think that someone would be keep it like gold and not share it.
Unfortunatly I did the error of installing the hondata before the wideband has arrived.
I copied the stock basemap of crome as well, but I've problems around 5k rpm.
Can someone help me about this?
Today, the car ran good. We had a drop in temperature from 38° to 22°.
This means that I was too rich? or too lean? what do you think?
just another thing, I saw that the lambda/voltage conversion table in the basemap was totally wrong. Even if still with the stock sensor, I would like to try to put the right values.
Hondata in the basemap says that 0.51v = 0.68 lambda. Is this right? I thought that the lambda voltage is = to lambda value. Anyone?
Last edited by Cabletie; Aug 12, 2015 at 03:56 AM.
I have the instructions, I just don't know which cable I have to use for the ecu connection. Can I use the one form the stock lambda sensor? it should go direct in the ecu right?
However I'm reading that the "out connection" of the box is an analog input, while the ecu has digital. Do I have to connect it to an hondata pin ? I'm a bit confused :D
Wire the wideband output to the o2 input on the ecu. It's a 5v range analog signal. Optionally, you could connect the narrowband output to the o2 input of ecu to run o2 compensation functions.
In hondata, tell it you have a wideband, 0v is 10:1, 5v is 20:1
ok so I have to connect the wideband to the d14 that is the O2 input on ecu.
I'm asking because in some threads people talk about to connect to d10 that is ELD.
ok so I have to connect the wideband to the d14 that is the O2 input on ecu.
I'm asking because in some threads people talk about to connect to d10 that is ELD.
I discover that I do not have d14 but only d10. The problem is that on d10 I have from 0.3V to 0.11V. What's wrong?
Use D12 (EGR lift sensor). It's active but not being used for anything else, unless you happen to be working with a VX.
- D14 input is capped at 3.7V, so you won't be able to see the full scale. You can modify the ecu to read the full scale if you need to use it.
- D10 is used by the ELD, which is a good feature that many people decide to deactivate due to a lack of understanding. I believe that only US models had this device though. Not sure if the circuitry is present on your ecu.
Use D12 (EGR lift sensor). It's active but not being used for anything else, unless you happen to be working with a VX.
- D14 input is capped at 3.7V, so you won't be able to see the full scale. You can modify the ecu to read the full scale if you need to use it.
- D10 is used by the ELD, which is a good feature that many people decide to deactivate due to a lack of understanding. I believe that only US models had this device though. Not sure if the circuitry is present on your ecu.
It's funny because i only have d10. In d14 and d12 I do not have cables. I'm stacked a this point.
Use D12 (EGR lift sensor). It's active but not being used for anything else, unless you happen to be working with a VX.
- D14 input is capped at 3.7V, so you won't be able to see the full scale. You can modify the ecu to read the full scale if you need to use it.
- D10 is used by the ELD, which is a good feature that many people decide to deactivate due to a lack of understanding. I believe that only US models had this device though. Not sure if the circuitry is present on your ecu.
Correct.
And, ~17.9:1 is what 3.7v is. Generally no need to read higher on pump obviously.
As I said I only have D10. Should be ELD but I think is the signal for the O2 heater sensor because I can read the same voltage form the stock lambda connector.
I have an EDM P30 ecu btw... hope that someone can help me with this.
And, ~17.9:1 is what 3.7v is. Generally no need to read higher on pump obviously.
Ok may be I'm on the right track, I found the d10 that has 4,52V.
The gauge is working btw, but on smanager I read volt values. I changed the settings but still doesn't read correct. Suggestions?
Ok I'm sure is working now. Just a question about the voltage offset on Smanager: now is set at 2.35 but while the gauge is reading 14.5, on Smanager I read 19.0. Should I play with the offset voltage till they match?
I'm sorry for the stupid questions but I'm totally new at this, and I'm getting closer little by little.
I can answer you that. Yes, make sure both read the same lambda value.
Usually you trust the gauge, and modify the tuning software side.
Always hoping your gauge and o2 are calibrated properly. So use common sense when using new sensors there, test your lean and rich limits during idle by changing fuel map values, and making sure motor responds reasonable as per the lambda value.
Aka, make it chug, a little, and be fluctuating around 18:1, and 10.5:1.
I like to do that with new o2s on a new tune, to make sure gauge and o2 are being reasonable, and not lying.
New to tuning, few questions on basemaps (installing plx AFR)
