I've checked em all but when I get home this weekend I plan to check again. I've been over it a couple times. I wonder if I just need to push more current through it.

 

have you posted this issue in the engine management section yet

 

Not yet. I want to triple check everything before I do.

I was just looking back at the first time I had the car tuned with these cams. It's the October 11 session on page 1. Going from 0,0 to -2,-2 on these cams netted us a peak of 26 whp and 12 ft/lb of torque at about 1.5 psi less. That really makes me want to put cam timing back where it was and go get it retuned. If I remember correctly the tuner didn't need to change much when he retarded the cams. I don't want get my hopes up but I would love to break the 500/400 mark.

 

thats a good ideal. man my retune prices are 280 dollars. plus a 35 hook up fee, plus a fee for hooking up a drag bar.

 

Reading your thread makes me wonder how much HP Ill get out of my TR3030R w/.82 AR. I am only running 96-99 spec Type R cams but went all out everywhere else.

 

hows the block built, fuel and....im forgetting somethin

 

Don't want to thread jack https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...3212407/page1/

Reading this thread is really making me think I may need more cam but I think I will sticks with the R's for now.

 

Well if you don't like the results with the Rs you can try the Skunk2s Or GSCs. Is it daily driven or a toy?

 

i like my gsc n1's, but i feel i like theres more power and torque to be unleashed midrange and lower with something more aggressive than type r, and type r like cams.

 

90%drag/show car, 10% street but the catch is the 10% street is with my wife driving so I don't need any stalling issues etc...

 

It's all in how you set it up..my wife has driven my GSC T1 car. She finds it interesting about the changes she performs in hearing at lower speeds, but no stalling issues or struggles.

But she didn't drive it that often. Since your wife can drive a stick, she will be alright.

 

Id like to get my girlfriend to that level where she could be confident enough to drive the Integra. She doesnt like driving period. She is scared of it because she was raised in fundy religious land and didnt get her license until like 4 years ago (shes 28). I wanna get her to some Autox's to boost her confidence.

End Tangent/

This thread needs more media ! I wanna hear that turbo spool lol

 

agreed

 

See, my wife drives a 6-speed gearbox everyday, and won't buy an automatic. (Yay, me!! ) For your wife, get an accelerated School style driving course instead. One of my family members from overseas was driving in the U.S. for the first time (even though experienced in London), but needed to understand our rules. That will serve better than an Auto X. (Plus, that's not the right car for autoX anyway)..

Baby steps.

 

Oh man I love Auto-X. My 1992 Mustang has a small fortune in suspension and brake upgrades. It used to have a supercharged old school 5.0 with a 5 speed. Its currently undergoing a Coyote swap with a 6 speed. I am back on the Mustang after my Honda project is done and cant freakin wait to Auto-X the new set-up. After I switched to a panhard bar and a torque arm set-up the car would corner so hard I was getting thrown everywhere. Its time for some harnesses and a 4 point cage.

 

Lemme know when you wanna stop dodging cones and get to some real course work like motorsport ranch, MSR, or Lonestar. ;-) j/k

 

Oh I wouldnt autox the integra. The TSX would be fine since its still an auto also.

 

Our TSX is a 6-speed. She didn't like it on the AutoX course.

 

My plan is to Yote swap my fox as well. Plan on a T56 for trans.

As for the Integra a Canadian Goose flew into the driver's door on the way home from work Tue.



You wanna talk about a rage moment. Good thing I work on Federal property so I can't pack heat when I'm at work. I'd have pulled over and shot every last one of those ******* geese.

The damage is worse than the pic shows too. There are also 2 what look like door dings 1 on top of the door and 1 on top of the quarter panel. I'm assuming those are bill/beak related.

After today...



My PDR guy spent 8.5 hours on it today. He said he would like to spend a little more time on it there is 1 wave that still bothers him a lot. It's hard to see but it's there. There are a few other areas on the car we want to clean up so I'll take it back to him at some point in the next month or 2.

Also made another dyno appointment for cam gear adjustment. Goal is 500/400 but torque may end up falling a bit short, we'll see.

 

My only stalling issues were at IATs below 50F but I'm really starting to think part of my issue was the valve springs. They were supposed to be 85lb seat pressure but either the ones I just put in are a heavier seat pressure (box lists them as 85lb) or the old ones were less given the issues I had setting/tightening the timing belt. That could explain a lot of the issues I was having. I'm not done with the GSC cams. It will probably be a few years but I'll put the GSC springs in at some point and try these cams again.

Flex fuel is likely my next project...

 

Flex fuel

 

Yeah I have the pigtail and sensor. I need to figure out the injectors, pump, and the feed line. I think I could leave the stock return but right now I'm running all stock lines.

 

So I've been noticing my fuel pressure drops 8-10 psi from cold start to when the car is running at operating temp for an extended period. It doesn't appear to be affecting the way the car runs. In boost AFR is good and at part throttle it is fine. The car does tend to run a bit rich at first start and warm up but I have been working on that with the temp compensations.

I went and looked over the fuel lines in the bay, the regulator, and the vac lines and everything looks ok. No smell of fuel either.

I looked at battery voltage data logs and they look good. Pump is wired up with relay and the grounds look good. I haven't had a chance to go after the circuits with my multimeter yet so that is my plan for the next few days.

I'm wondering is anyone else noticing something like this?

Pump is Walbro 400 and FPR is A1000 running stock Honda Fuel filter. Oh yeah battery is less than year old. Optima yellow top that is on a float charger if the car isn't going to be driven in more than a week. That's rare but it does happen.

 

have you check to make sure the fuel pressure regulator assembly isnt loose. honestly just happened to me couple months ago.

 

I have gauge on rail and a pressure sender from the FPR. Both show the drop.

I'm going to go over all the fuel pump wiring and check the battery ground. I have the battery in the hatch due to space limitations and the battery is grounded to the chassis. I wonder if I should run a cable up to one of the main grounds. I know it is suggested that the ground be a short as possible but I wonder if my chassis mounting point isn't sufficient.