Well I'm careful where I drive it and I have several anti theft solutions on the car. My office is small and the lot has lots of cameras which we monitor inside. So I'm not worried about theft there. I am careful about taking it other places tho.

 

While the head is off I'm rebuilding it. Valves/guides will remain unchanged but everything else must go. I'm putting the valve seals on right now and I'm not sure if they are on all the way. Some of them I felt 2 faint clicks but others I did not.

I took a pic of the installed ones vs old ones and it looks to me like they are on. Any expert opinions?

Old:




New


Those are on the exhaust side I haven't done the intake side yet.

 

Looks good, I always use a socket to install then and tap them till you they stop.

 

That's what I'm doing. 12mm extended socket and tapping with my rubber mallet.

Pics I found the other day showed the seals sitting flush but these don't. Then I noticed the old ones didn't sit flush so I figured I was good. Just looking for confirmation. Thanks it is very much appreciated.

 

Take it to a head repair shop.

I never mess with the seals or valve guides

Leave that to the people who do it day in day out

And i love doing everything on my own. It would suck to have a brand new se leak and need to take the head off

Same thing with lapping the valves

 

Stop using a hammer for sure, they push on by hand very easily with little effort with a deep 12mm and you can easily feel them click once installed.

If you cant pull them up with your fingers then they are installed.

No need to take this to a shop

 

Intake side springs are done.



Is this going to be an issue? Should I get another Ti retainer?

 

Although I'm a big fan of Ti Retainers, most people here on H-T will tell you not to use them at all because of "failure issues". That doesn't look like a huge problem, but as Turbohatch stated, I leave seal issues to machine shops.

 

Well the seals are in. If they end up leaking I'll take it somewhere for the redo. I tried pulling them off and they are tight. I had Ti retainers before and had no issues for 4.5 years. Now that I know how to do them I have no issue replacing the retainers every few years if I have to. Having the right tools makes the job pretty easy.

 

ive only had titanium retainers once. that was for like three years on my da. i didnt ahave any problems. thought their life span was like 10,000 miles which i easily did. but no problem. i do agree no hammering should be done. i like to attempt something myself before taking to the specialist given the nature. although, gotta have faith sometime, as youve already just tested.

 

you still goin back to the tuner 1s

 

Pretty sure I am.

I think I'm just gonna get a new retainer. As for Ti lifespan, the ones I had in last 4.5 and close to 30k miles with no sign of wearing.

 

kool. im leaning towards the tuner 1s aswell. even though im being told the cam surge can be tuned out, i dont think i want to go thru all thr hassle again. and you say you didnt have this issue on the tuner 1s.

when my head was being torn down. the option was brought to between titanium and steel on a time frame. so i just opted for longer time frame

 

Cam surge wasn't really my issue. My issue was that I drive the car year round and daily. In cold weather the car would not idle right. It would shut off under braking sometimes and wouldn't idle without me holding the throttle open for the first minute or so after start up. When outside air temp was above 55 or so I had no problems. Plus in cold weather my mileage was ****. Under 20 mpg at times. In warm weather I was getting 26-28 no problem. If the car wasn't my DD I would keep the GSCs. Great cam, just not for what I want.

 

I didn't really hammer the seals. After I pushed them on I used my rubber mallet to tap on them lightly. I guess I will find out if I fucked them up at some point.

The guides were redone when I had the head put together 25k-30k miles ago so I'm not really worried about them.


Appreciate everyone's input.

 

two things, i wouldnt take a person thatd used a hammer. i was referring to a dead blow. indont think even the common idiot would use a hammer.

second, after pathcy help. i got my car to idle, not stall, or any any other bs in cold temps.

 

NICE!

 

haha the drunken crowleys after me again. i meant we all know your not the type of person to abuse his car. hammering is a term used between most. and honestly he(patchy) did help with my engine mangement. ill take as much previous s300 as i cam.

im not tryin to deter your thread. in similar cases i feel like were struggling some of the same batttles.

 

Well I spent 3 months trying to get it to idle right in the cold and it wouldn't and I tried playing with every setting I could find. Cranking with temps under 40, it would either backfire occasionally out the exhaust or intake. I tried playing with the timing and the fuel in the cranking areas and it did nothing just moved the backfire to intake or exhaust. The timing was correct, verified multiple times with multiple sets of eyes. For whatever reason the GSC cams do not like my setup in the cold. Now once the ECT and IAT temps were at normal levels it ran a lot better. I tried adjusting all the temp compensation values and did see some improvement but no matter what I did the stalling under braking with low IAT and low ECT never stopped.

I'm fine going back to the Tuner1s. They worked great for 4 years and I had the part throttle/idle on those perfect. I'm making some other changes so hopefully I will still be able to remain above 500whp but if not that's the way it goes.

 

Under idle what is the iginition compensation set at? Whats the base idle timing at?

 

understood. would you happen to know if you have the older or newer version tuner ones

 

So I decided while its apart to I might as well change the timing belt. Look what I found. How the **** could it even run like this?

 

Base idle was 16 degrees.

I don't remember the ignition compensation. I'll pull up the cal file later tonight and check.

All if this is probably moot seeing the crank sensor. I'm still in shock over that. Looks like the timing belt caught it and wore it down. The TB has a groove in it.

 

The Ecu just used the signal from the dizzy instead

 

Weird that I go no codes. I'm trying to learn more about how the sensor is used to see if this would have been the cause of any of my issues or not. I guess if it was using the distributor (or whats left of it) it wouldn't make a difference.