Well i just got off the phone with aem and they recommended a bosch sensor pt number bch0261231128

Sonim gonna pick one up and after i get done tuning remove the det can and install that and set up all the parameters to do as you said and pull timing and add fuel

 

I know, i know ....but I sold the longblock with all the Blox parts and the eGay manifold/dp for more than I paid for the entire setup. Now i have a pile of name brand parts (PTE 5431, Tial 44mm, HKS SSQV, etc) and paid essentially nothing for them. I'm living up to my username


I'm holding on to it for now, but if plans change, i'll give you the buddy discount. Still entertaining the idea of building something over the winter...just not sure what yet.

 

nice man not a bad deal!!

 

Meh I started a write up but this sites uploader is ******* stupid. It ruined the page and I had to refresh it so **** that


heres pics

 

Motor should be ready to start today.

 

Aw yiss, motha fukin DIY det cans.

 

So is no one putting in wrench time anymore or what?

 

It's winter time, breh. I'm not even thinking about my car right now. Step father asked me when I was going to finish it. Uh...when it's warm again.

 

This is when you supposed to be putting in work tho

 

Motor started right up

 

Not putting in work in the driveway, when it's raining and in the 40's. No thank you.

 

me and my kerosene heater live in the garage during the winter. its warmer and better insulated out there than in my house lol. bonus is i keep my mug on the top of the heater and always have hot coffee!

im thinking about getting the knocksense in the next few days. does it work with the honda knock sensor or do i need bosch or whatever sensor?

you can also make a "home made" knock detector with the "listen up" hearing amplifier. extend some wires to move the sound pickup to a big alligator clamp or whatnot that you can fix to your block. it was pretty darn ghetto but you could hear detonation as an abnormality in the sound. i helped me tune out some light throttle detonation on a 12:1 all motor lsvtec last year. it was pinging inaudibly between 10-14" and around 2800 rpm.

 

Nice. I never heard of that listen up amplifier


Aem recommended to me this bosch sensor pt#0261231128 its a ring type and you just put a bolt through it. Im going to be buying one soon also and wire it up to my ems.


Lets talk about part throttle tuning.


Do you tune for random rpm ranges say 3500 rpm 50 percent tps and tune for mbt or till you hear knock? then jump to say 4500 rpm and interpolate in between?

 

Any one ever use this method?


*How to setup idle for AEM ECU* - evolutionm.net




cliffs:


Open Idle/Advanced idle/Ign vs idle rpm table/Table Use these values.
-325 to -125= 10
-100=9.84
-75=8.44
-50=6.33
-25=4.22
0= 0
25= -3.52
50= -5.98
75= -6.68
100 to 300= -8

note: Im not sure if all of the above settings will work for evo 9. Someone will have to test them out.

If you reopen the Ign vs idle rpm graph you will notice is has some steep curves now. This is what makes the engine idle at a steady rpm. The base ignition timing
is now 10 degrees but when the engine idles up it will retard timing and idles down it will advance the timing. This way the ignition timing can control the idle rpm instead of just using the iac motor. This gives a great idle. A/c on, hot, cold high,low,turning, everything. This also fixes some cold start issues. If the engine goes to stall the timing will ramp up and rev the engine back up before it stalls.
this reaction happens MUCH faster then the iac motor could ever respond.

Start the engine and let the idle settle, you should notice the ignition timing moving around alot. More with big cams i would think. Mine moves from 2-18 degrees at idle. But now you should have a rock solid 1200rpm idle.
Go back to the idle target table and move the 150F-248F to 1100 rpm and see how it idles also making sure the idle feedback is near 0.
-3 to +2 is ok. It will be best if you can keep it between 0&-2 as it will encourage a higher idle before the feedback responds.
Now try 1000rpm. 900rpm,ect unitl you find the sweet spot that your happy with.
With big cams i wouldnt go lower than 1000rpm. Mine will idle at 800rpm but its very rough and shaking the car. 1050rpm feels good on my car.
Now open the 02 feedback table and set the idle & drivability area's to 14.7AFR and turn the 02 feedback on.

 

I use that method for my car and it idles rock solid and doesn't give me any problems anymore when cruising or if the fan kicks on etc

 

About friggin time dude!

Maybe use more conservative timing this time around until you can get it on a dyno and really dial in the timing. Street tuning timing is a bitch. I'm about to add meth to my setup then I'm gonna get it on a dyno to really get the timing fine tuned. Right now my car seems to make pretty good power on conservative timing with no knock whatsoever. I would rather turn the boost up to make power then add timing, especially on pump gas. Reading the plug is a must.

Keep us updated on how your tuning goes. What plugs are you running?

 

Sorry I haven't been around these last few weeks, I just got done moving to another house. The move damn near killed me, normally spent 2-3 days awake at a time just to get moved by the deadline to be out of our old house.

Spent all last night till 745am towing my cars to the new house. At which point my SVT focus jumped it's wheel chocks after I got it off the trailer and started rolling towards a fire hydrant but luckily I dove in and grabbed the ebrake before it got very far, then the civic tried to slide off the back of the trailer and the accord managed to get a front lower subframe bolt over the front edge of the trailer making it impossible to move so I had to take part of the trailer apart lol. Then I went to drive the van over here and the headlights both failed halfway home so I drove in the dark lol. I did manage to get everything but my s13 moved over which is currently in storage.

I have to unpack everything and organize the garage before I can bring it over, especially since there's 6 cars in the driveway already lol. That will change though.

A guy is supposed to buy my accord soon and once I get done unpacking and organizing I'm going to put the s13 and another car under our porch. The best part is I finally have a proper garage so work can commence on cars as soon as I'm settled (yay happy dance time)

So what all have I missed?

When I opened the forum page I had 12 PMs waiting for me lol. I'll still be on occasionally, don't have cable or internet yet since Charter installers keep making up excuses not to work when they show up. Cell service is also spotty here on the lake, even worse when you live in a basement.

So if you PMd me don't think I'm ignoring you, I'll open, read, and reply them all.

Other good news is my buddy gave me a Forced Performance TD05H-20G in trade for one of my sr20det turbo manifolds so I have a temporary turbo for the civic until I get a new CHRA for my 2871r and I can at least get the car running till I do. Plus I'm buying my friends miata here by the middle of January for a steal so I'll have another toy.

 

Yeah the last piston broke because of fuel. I wasnt paying attention to my raw fuel numbers and maxed out fuel before i realized it. So this time around i know better. On Top of that i got my det can setup and it sounds really clear even with my down pipe wide open it cancels out all the noise.

For plus i think they are 8 hear range resistor ngks

Looks like tain for the next couple days so wont get it out till maybe sat.

Also gonna knock my break points down to 8400 rpm since my redline is only 7500 and get some more resolution there.

Wish me luck lol

 

Ya I'm running NGK 4554 8 heat range plugs. The are non resistor, but my NGK blue wires have resistance built into them so I don't have any interference or noise problems. Plus the 4554 are copper so they are super cheap, witch is good cuz I've went through about 6 sets tuning lol. My car hated 7 heat range plugs for some reason.

What size injectors are you running now and what power level are gonna push it to? If e85 was available up here I would run that, but its not so meth injection it is. I plan on running the meth just for safety sake. Gonna run a small jet and keep pump gas timing numbers so if it fails my engine won't go as well. The only thing holding me back is stock rods. Not sure how much torque they can handle before making a window in my block lol. Once I get it on the dyno I'll probably call it good at 350-360whp or so. I wanna run low 11s when the track opens again! My car only weighs 2000lbs so I shouldn't need a whole lot of power to get there...

Good luck with your tuning bro.

 

running NGK 4554 8 heat range plugs


ill 2nd running the 4554's. cheap and effective i have been in my turbo car for the last few years

 

My aem and cop need resistor plugs doe

Only a buck 50 at rock auto

 

Sooo i dumped my oil refilled let the motor warm up and did a comp test and im already at 250 psi in the #1 cylinder which is the one i replaced.

The others are at 265-270, i havent driven the motor yet only idled 15 min. As the rings break in on that cylinder i should get another 20psi in there.

If this all holds together then i would say swapping a single piston out is not that bad.

 

Patchorific, I hope you're breaking that motor in correctly.

 

Those compression numbers are insane. Which motor was this and what's static compression? I need your compression numbers in my life lol.

 

Bitch im no bitch. Idle time then romp on it to redline a couple times and its done. Change oil



Yeah i know, its the high comp b20b jdm land motor , has phk pistons.

Gsr head

I have no idea why it reads soo high. My gsr motor with 10:1 cp pistons only read 220 max.

I also found a huge boost leak that i must have had this whole time so i think this thing is gonna spool even faster now.

Gotta wait till this rain passes tho.