Same **** as you stumbling ideal all fucked up.

But I tested mine to very hot temp continus highway pulls and nothing

Only happens when I need it most lol

 

Check your IAT tables. Do you have a wideband?

 

Yea I have wide band wires to my s300 so I log af.

What am I looking for with iat?

 

I use Ectune, but there should be compensation for IAT vs ECT, maybe under Fuel trims / corrections?

Its either rich or lean, I would assume lean because you would smell the gas if it was rich.

 

So you think out problem may be we are leaning out due to iat vs ect fuel tables?

 

FWIW I played a lot with the IAT and the ECT tables. It helped but it wouldn't go away.

I've only had a limited amount of time driving it but it did feel much better. Even once it was heated up.

But only time will tell.

 

Did you open a thread on hondata web site and ask what the setting should be?

 

No I didn't. I didn't have time that morning (still ended up being late for work). The high ECT values were close but it was the ECT values under 100 F that were causing problems.

 

I'm not sure that the ect/iat values have anything to do with our problem after much reserch there seems tobe a well documwntes issue with cpr units doing this. Only problem is most of the users report this all the time and not just at certain time like we have been having.

Is anyone running the cpr with no problems?

 

The car was doing this b4 I installed CPR so I'm fairly confident my issue is not CPR related.

In fact when this problem first started a friend of mine said it was TPS (exact same thing happened to him) but in datalogs it didn't seem the TPS was acting up.

 

Ok as I was lol, well I just ordered tps just to be sure.

Did you say yours was doing it all the time or sparatic

 

It was not all the time, but when it did happen it was always in a specific rev range and at similar throttle position.

 

Well TPS isn't the issue.

Made zero changes from this morning and now tried to take the car to work and it is barely driveable. Part throttle AFR is 18-19 (again no changes) and virtually all of the cells in the estimated fuel change table in Hondata are 20% or higher.

Fuel pressure is solid and pretty much where it needs to be.

There were a few stretches where it would suddenly act normal and then it would go back to running very lean.

I'm grasping at straws at this point. Any and all opinions welcome.

What would symptoms of a bad fuel injector be?

 

is the fuel pump old or beat to ****.

 

Fuel pump is fairly new. Walbro 400 lph. Fuel pressure datalogs show solid fuel pressure at cruise while the leaning out is happening.

I just checked the datalog. Fuel pressure is basically the same (within a tenth of a psi) when the lean condition is occurring vs when it is not occurring.

This is around 15% on TPS so it's not like the pump is being strained. Battery voltage during this period is roughly 13.67-13.87.

 

gotcha. its not miss firing is it

 

Have you changed the wideband sensor yet?

Checked all the wiring for it?

 

Not yet. I dug one out the other night but haven't replaced it yet. I briefly went through the wiring but my next set of days off I'll go through it better, if it happens again (I should say WHEN it happens again).

This gets weirder and weirder. Drove it for about an hour yesterday and drove it to work and home last night. Ran like a champ.

All I did yesterday was check vac lines (mind you I didn't change anything, just looked) and disconnected/reconnected all the injector clips.

I posted links to datalog/calibration in my thread in EM/Tuning if anyone is interested:

 

So car has been continuing to run terrible in open loop. It is fine when it is cold or when it is cool out. Once it gets hot it starts running very rich (pops and backfires under decel) and idles poor, around 600 rpm. Idle is so poor it will shut off at times, especially as I am coming to a stop. Wonderful to have happen with power brakes...

I have been all over the calibration file and cannot find anything wrong. It does this particular problem in open and closed loop. At this point I have decided it must be something mechanical. I feel I can rule out fuel system because I am not seeing any difference in fuel pressure, although I guess a sticking injector could be the problem. Map/TPS voltage are good and show nothing stupid. Once again I have gone over all my vacuum lines and see no issues with them, plus the idle is very low not high and fluctuating. I've cleaned out the IACV and adjusted the idle screw with no change. I decided to see what would happen if I opened the gas cap while the car was running. I heard loud hissing (expected) and the car started to idle perfect, 850 rpm and AFR 14.7-15.0. After thinking about it a bit I decided to try unplugging the EVAP purge solenoid connector (lines still hooked up). Once again the idle went to 850 and smoothed out. AFR jumped to 14.7-15.0 and is stable. I connected the purge solenoid connector back up and tried disconnecting the connector for the 3 way valve on charcoal canister, no change to poor idle and the rich condition when I did that.

Does anyone know if the EVAP purge solenoid would be prone to failing in the open position? I don't want to think I have this figured out only to have it return. I have the Helms and will have to see if there is a test procedure for the solenoid. Car has not been throwing a CEL.

Before anyone asks, I have the whole EVAP setup only because it was in working order and I saw no reason to remove it as it wasn't really in my way. If it is the problem then I will just remove all that garbage.

The purge solenoid being stuck open does make sense for the issues I have been having and the presenting symptoms. One of the weirdest has been after the car warms up and I am cruising along in 5th, low vac. I would let off the gas and instead of AFR going lean it would go rich, sometimes to the point of full rich. If that solenoid was stuck open the high vac condition would pull a lot of fuel vapors into the manifold. It would also account for the terrible rich condition during light/part throttle. With the gas tank having a pressure relief valve itself it would make sense that it wouldn't do it until the fuel heated up and significant vapors were able to build up.

Anyone have any thoughts/ideas?

TIA

 

Well I've been trying to chase a issue with the car running rich in closed loop but in open loop A/F is perfect. By rich in closed loop I mean 11:1ish. All I do is change from open loop to closed and bam. Hondata thinks ID 1000 dead times may be the culprit so I'm trying to get this issue resolved.

On the plus side I ordered the AEM 4 channel Thermocouple Amp


and now I have this:



If anyone is wondering why 1/4 are higher part of it has to do with the location in the manifold. 1/4 are closer to the ports than 2/3. So far datalogs at full throttle do not show a lot of variance in temp across all 4.

 

Is that the new feature you get with the new s300v3? The display of all the gauges?

 

Nah, I have a small netbook I keep in the car I use to datalog. That's the Hondata display I setup for it. I haven't upgraded to V3 yet, still on V2.

 

Well for whatever reason I have not been able to resolve the difference in open loop and closed loop. I have since given up. I put the car in closed loop with S trim max/min set to 0. I made a few slight adjustments to dead times today based on how the car was running with every accessory on/full current draw.

As far as the fuel tables go I've been working on them when I have driven it the past few days and I'm making good progress. Car still has an occasional stumble, but as they happen I find out where in the fuel table it occurred and fix it. So far I have been able to "tune" each one out. In fact I'm to the point where I'm driving it in weird rpm/vac areas to see if I can get it to stumble then fix them. Overall car still runs a little rich but most areas of the part throttle fuel table are within 5% of stoich now.

Soon time for GSC cam install and traction control

 

noice lol

 

Well I now have all the items on hand for the GSC cam install. Hoping to have the cams in and a retune by the end of September.

In the meantime I'm already gathering parts for the next phase of the project.