Rear end height questions
I have the front of my car set the lowest I can go without rubbing the slicks or the traction bar tripping the staging lights when I have very low pressure in the slicks.
When I set the rear, I've run into two separate schools of thought. One side says to set the rear as low as you can to avoid squatting because it can't squat if it's already all the way down, plus it's got less drag down low. The other side of the argument is to set it up higher to transfer weight to the front for more traction. Right now the rear of the car is probably 2-3" lower than the back on Skunk2 Drag coilovers all around.
Any opinions?
When I set the rear, I've run into two separate schools of thought. One side says to set the rear as low as you can to avoid squatting because it can't squat if it's already all the way down, plus it's got less drag down low. The other side of the argument is to set it up higher to transfer weight to the front for more traction. Right now the rear of the car is probably 2-3" lower than the back on Skunk2 Drag coilovers all around.
Any opinions?
the squat to avoid squatting idea makes it worse because then you are just shocking the rear. I have my rear height specifically set to reach my goal weight % on the front after setting the front at minimum possible ride height for beam and slick clearance.
How do you determine your goal weight percentage? I dont want to just keep cranking it up because the weight kept going forward. There must be some compromise.
There was a thread about corner balancing a while back and everyone seemed to agree as close to 70/30 ratio as you can get is what has worked for most others.
Why would going more than 70/30 be detrimental? If it were possible to go 90/10, why shouldn't one do that? I'm not trying to, just playing devil's advocate here.
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You could lift the rear tires from braking and the rear end will beat you to the turn off. Also if you need a chute....have a 90/10 would DEF cause the rear to lift up if you throw it. Im sure are ways to help this but its better to be safe and well rounded.
ask Jeff Evans. (you tube)
You could lift the rear tires from braking and the rear end will beat you to the turn off. Also if you need a chute....have a 90/10 would DEF cause the rear to lift up if you throw it. Im sure are ways to help this but its better to be safe and well rounded.
You could lift the rear tires from braking and the rear end will beat you to the turn off. Also if you need a chute....have a 90/10 would DEF cause the rear to lift up if you throw it. Im sure are ways to help this but its better to be safe and well rounded.
If you can find 4 cheap 600+ pound heavy duty scales u could just set each wheel on a scale and get the same results... You would just have to do the math yourself to figure up the percentages...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...er-scales.html
Here is the cheep low down corner scale setup LOL
Here is the cheep low down corner scale setup LOL
I stumbled on an old thread that was a good read on this subject.... It changed the way I thought about this topic.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/any-benifit-raising-rear-suspension-up-keepin-front-low-drag-2244782/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/any-benifit-raising-rear-suspension-up-keepin-front-low-drag-2244782/
Bringing it back.
Digital Scales AZ has 700 lb capacity bariatric scales (made for fatass 'Murcans who can't fit a regular scale, God bless the Whopper) for $65.
http://www.digitalscalesaz.com/XL-70...Scale-My-Weigh
Add in the coupon code "tweet" and you come to a total of $269 shipped.
I took the plunge and will report back how they do if I ever get my car off of jackstands and back to the shop.
Digital Scales AZ has 700 lb capacity bariatric scales (made for fatass 'Murcans who can't fit a regular scale, God bless the Whopper) for $65.
http://www.digitalscalesaz.com/XL-70...Scale-My-Weigh
Add in the coupon code "tweet" and you come to a total of $269 shipped.
I took the plunge and will report back how they do if I ever get my car off of jackstands and back to the shop.
BTW: 70% of 2000lbs is 1400. So if your car weighs exactly 2000 with driver, these scales will barely be enough to get an accurate reading of 70/30 weight distribution.
(Unless I'm calculating this wrong.)
So what I would want to see is
Total: 2000
35% 700 | 35% 700
15% 300 | 15% 300
(Unless I'm calculating this wrong.)
So what I would want to see is
Total: 2000
35% 700 | 35% 700
15% 300 | 15% 300
Just wrote a whole response and then my phone glitched. My car is 65/35 and both front are even with me in the car. With stock fenders and enough gap for slicks rear are low enough but the car has slight rake toward the front when slicks are aired down.
Corner balance then alignment and you can check balance after but I personally would make adjustments because it will throw alignment off to some degree depending what you change.
So I've been through this same kinda thing before and I will tell you that a go pro on the side of your car can help wonders. Also you want to play with ride hight. When you launch you want your camber as close to 0° so you have 100% or as close to that as possible for max tire contact. Go to test and tunes and play with it.
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