When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I want those m factory gears too you will have to let me know how you like them .
I didn't go with Mfactory.
I went with OEM gears with full treatment. I wanted to maintain the stock gearing and I couldn't get that with M factory. Remember, daily driven and the turbo is sized for the GSR ratios.
Oh i see what u mean. The m factory gear are kinda pricy for me but not sure how long my stock one will last beating on them. I do enjoy the oem Gsr ratio it puts me right across the 1/4 at the top of fourth.
Everyones gripe with Hondatas COP kit is the shitty wiring job and loom used for the harnesses. most strip the hard black **** off and use heatshrink tubing (have to depin each connector to do so) or they slide what he posted above over it.
I really like that plate, I'm trying to figure out how I'm mounting my upgraded ls7 coils to my motor. my ITBs have 4 identical
mounting holes on each throttle body that would be perfect for mounting a plate to plus it's close enough that the plug wires are fairly short and I can route all wiring cleanly.
I wish I could figure out a way to mount them in the valley of the valvecover but I don't think it can be done easily or cleanly.
When I'm wrapping wires, I personally pony up the extra few bucks and get Raychem DR-25. Heat resistant, chemical resistant, as easy to install as any other heat shrink, and it looks good to boot. It's made by TE Connectivity. Never had a problem.
When I'm wrapping wires, I personally pony up the extra few bucks and get Raychem DR-25. Heat resistant, chemical resistant, as easy to install as any other heat shrink, and it looks good to boot. It's made by TE Connectivity. Never had a problem.
Well CPR seems to be working perfect now. Had to play with cranking fuel trim a bit but got it working.
Now working on getting oil pressure into Hondata. Just need to finish soldering up the wiring.
Played a bit with some expandable sleeve and the CPR wiring. Still not thrilled with it but it looks a lot better. Will keep looking for other solutions.
My wife surprised me with a combination late birthday/anniversary and early Father's Day present. Looking forward to getting these in at some point down the road.
My wife surprised me with a combination late birthday/anniversary and early Father's Day present. Looking forward to getting these in at some point down the road.
Am using supertech springs/valves/retainers. I have verified that the springs are the DR springs. Should be good to go.
Right now I am using aftermarket cam gears. I will switch back to OEM gears when I throw these in.
I may replace the lost motion assemblies when I do this too. They seem to be on the loud side. At least I think it's them. I recently checked the lash and it seems good.
Am using supertech springs/valves/retainers. I have verified that the springs are the DR springs. Should be good to go.
Right now I am using aftermarket cam gears. I will switch back to OEM gears when I throw these in.
I may replace the lost motion assemblies when I do this too. They seem to be on the loud side. At least I think it's them. I recently checked the lash and it seems good.
You can keep the cam gears in, you just need the extended bolts and washers.. I have a spare set.. holler at me..
Car was giving me trouble starting (especially in colder weather). It would crank but not fire. All lights on CPR box are good. I tried messing with cranking fuel trim and that seemed to help but in the end I don't think it helped all that much.
This morning the car wouldn't start (coolant temp 60F). I tried new plugs and different gaps but no changes. Grasping at straws I decided to check the cranking pulse. I selected reset to default and noticed big changes, especially in the colder ranges. Started right up after that.
I don't know how or when this changed, I didn't do it, but this problem only started recently. I can't say for sure but it seems like it coincided with a SManager update.
Well the stumbling continued and had actually gotten worse. The car would run terrible once it was heat soaked. I was pretty much at the end of my rope.
Once IAT reached 100-110 it would idle terrible, even shutting off at times. When I would let off the throttle at cruise it would pop/backfire out the exhaust and AFR was all over the place. It was to the point I was wondering if I hurt the engine.
Even though the TPS data logging didn't really show any issue I decided to swap out a good one to see. I cannot say for sure, further testing is definitely required, but I just went for a drive (made sure to heat soak it, IAT was 110+ at times) and I'm not sure I'm driving the same car. Car drove perfect. Not stumbling or acting up.