how do you identify a LS & GSR crank?
I know the strokes are different, but my question is how would someone identify the GSR crank from the LS one?
is there a number or code somewhere on the crank?
is there a number or code somewhere on the crank?
Find the specs of the journal and use a digital caliper or mic. to messure.
Im pretty sure there are no codes on the crank from what i have seen (never really payed attention)
Im pretty sure there are no codes on the crank from what i have seen (never really payed attention)
Search for images between an LS and GSR crank. I did this when buying a GSR crank to make sure I was getting the right one. There were some small differences in markings and how the counter weights look. I forget exactly what they are, but google searching images I was able to compare.
There's a small flat plate surface on the journal closest to where the crank pulley is. That marking helps determine which crank it is without going through all the micrometer headache.
B1-B4 = LS or B20 Crank
R= Type R Crank.
6 = B16
7 = GS-R
I'll edit this as needed, as I remember this through my builder and still have a couple of B20 and Type R cranks still around. I'm going to verify the B16 and GS-R numbers. I went by this plate system and it worked, as I needed to help out Ron and Project "SHE" with a spare B20 Crank I had left
Last edited by TheShodan; Oct 24, 2011 at 12:57 PM.
Trending Topics
Well I have a crank that I I just picked up with a Gsr block and I didn't really check it out before I left with it and I have a suspicion that it is actually a b16 crank. In the position where the 7 should be on a gsr crank I have a 3 and where the 4 is I have a 2. Any ideas?
Post up pics? I'm a visual guy and seeing your crank matched up to these samples above will help tremendously. Sounds like it might be a 89mm crank.
Just came across this thread as I was trying to identify a crank that I have. It proved to be useful. Thought I share my info. This picture is upside down because I took it that way with my phone. You can see the plate that says B2 though. I now know that this is a LS or B20 crank.
Look at all the counterweights between 1 & 4, only the outer 2 weights are "full" counterweights. 18a/b have full counterweights on all cylinders. From my experience that would either be a 16a or a 18c. Possibility it is a 17a as well. They look real similar to a 18c. Anyway you can measure the rod journal width?
There are.
There's a small flat plate surface on the journal closest to where the crank pulley is. That marking helps determine which crank it is without going through all the micrometer headache.
B1-B4 = LS or B20 Crank
R= Type R Crank.
6 = B16
7 = GS-R
I'll edit this as needed, as I remember this through my builder and still have a couple of B20 and Type R cranks still around. I'm going to verify the B16 and GS-R numbers. I went by this plate system and it worked, as I needed to help out Ron and Project "SHE" with a spare B20 Crank I had left
There's a small flat plate surface on the journal closest to where the crank pulley is. That marking helps determine which crank it is without going through all the micrometer headache.
B1-B4 = LS or B20 Crank
R= Type R Crank.
6 = B16
7 = GS-R
I'll edit this as needed, as I remember this through my builder and still have a couple of B20 and Type R cranks still around. I'm going to verify the B16 and GS-R numbers. I went by this plate system and it worked, as I needed to help out Ron and Project "SHE" with a spare B20 Crank I had left
^ these two posts alone should qualify this as a sticky.
Someone recommended this be added to the FAQ sticky at the top of this section, so it has been added. FYI, that FAQ thread is open to posts, so feel free to post in there if you think something should be added. Both me and Jimmy are subscribed, so we will be able to add it if we agree it belongs there
Last edited by ShaunRR; Jan 8, 2012 at 02:43 PM.
There are.
There's a small flat plate surface on the journal closest to where the crank pulley is. That marking helps determine which crank it is without going through all the micrometer headache.
B1-B4 = LS or B20 Crank
R= Type R Crank.
6 = B16
7 = GS-R
I'll edit this as needed, as I remember this through my builder and still have a couple of B20 and Type R cranks still around. I'm going to verify the B16 and GS-R numbers. I went by this plate system and it worked, as I needed to help out Ron and Project "SHE" with a spare B20 Crank I had left
There's a small flat plate surface on the journal closest to where the crank pulley is. That marking helps determine which crank it is without going through all the micrometer headache.
B1-B4 = LS or B20 Crank
R= Type R Crank.
6 = B16
7 = GS-R
I'll edit this as needed, as I remember this through my builder and still have a couple of B20 and Type R cranks still around. I'm going to verify the B16 and GS-R numbers. I went by this plate system and it worked, as I needed to help out Ron and Project "SHE" with a spare B20 Crank I had left
yeah the only way I really know for sure what crank I have is by eyeballing it lol
Last edited by mikesrex; Apr 9, 2012 at 08:39 AM.
2 GSR cranks

2 more GSR cranks

2 B16A cranks

what I'm pretty sure is an LS crank. Note that a machine shop has done some work to this one

2 more GSR cranks

2 B16A cranks

what I'm pretty sure is an LS crank. Note that a machine shop has done some work to this one




