'99 CR-V, 5spd AWD, all stock

I'm still new to this thing, still learning. Been lurking and searching, trying to gobble knowledge. I read in another thread about having the valves adjusted about every 30k miles. Since I just got this thing, and there's no real paperwork to be had, I'm curious if there are any telltale signs that I need to have this work done (or learn to do it).

Secondary question:
When this thing is cold, it won't idle for s**t. If I start it and leave it until it warms up, it's fine. If I try and drive it (very nicely, btw, I wouldn't beat on a cold car) while it's still cold or even semi-cold, it stalls hardcore when falling back to idle, like when I'm coming to a stop at a light. And after it stalls it does not want to start back up. Waiting for it to warm up all the way isn't always doable, and having to blip the throttle with the clutch in for the first 10min of driving it is getting old.

Any pointers greatly appreciated.

 

usually misfire codes thats how my problems started. after i did the adjustment never again

 

http://www.ej8squad.com/thread-17656.html

Giver-****!

 

check the codes. always

 

oh ok so it'll actually throw a CEL.
that's good to know...CEL free for now!

any thoughts about my stalling issue?

 

no, it wont throw a cel. The cel only shows up if its running bad enough to effect emissions.

as for the stalling your idle air control valve is likely dirty or misadjusted. Check that.

 

Does it smell like its running rich at all, especially when cold? Also, do you have a noisy top end / valve chatter? Valves out of adjustment won't always throw a code as stated before. The exhaust valves are known to get tighter on these as well - so it may not be noisy either. You can do a leak-down test to check for this. You can check your IACV but these typically exhibit a fluctuating idle when they need cleaned.

 

Yeah the reason I was asking was due to the idle problem, as well as the noisy valves, especially on startup/cold running.

Is there any way to check them? Or should I just do them to know they're done.

 

to check them you have to pop the valve cover off and use a feeler gauge.

 

Exactly. Unfortunately this is the only way to check valve adjustment. Though that is easy enough, there is a special tool that aides in this. It is not needed, but makes life easier than trying to hold a feeler gauge, screwdriver, and wrench all at the same time.

 

you can just let the feeler gauge rest between the tappet and valve tip while you tighten the lock nut. just as long as the adjuster does not move while you do this. that's how i've always done lash adjustment. not that difficult. and if it hasn't been done that you know of, it's a super easy way of saving yourself pulling the head off and replacing exhaust valve(s). the exhaust valves tend to get tighter clearances because the valve face actually starts to stamp into the seat, pushing the valve higher into the head and closer to the tappet/rocker arm. whereas, intake valves tend to get a greater clearance due to carbon build up on the back of the valve face. basically opposite effect of the exhaust valve. exhaust valves tend to burn if valve lash is too tight due to the valve not making good contact with the seat, where it transfers most of it's heat. that's the basic reasoning of adjusting valve lash on any motor.

when i said check the code(s) it was to try and diagnose the stalling on cold start. not for valve lash.
because our engines are obd2, and don't utilize a mechanical fitv, the pcm takes readings from the coolant temp sensor among other sensors to determine cold start fast idle.
check the coolant temp sensor by measuring resistance of it first cold, then hot. see if it falls within spec

 

great information. thanks guys.
I'm gonna take a look at it on my night off.

 

make sure to buy a valve gasket kit, other wise its going to leak! dont buy just the valve gaset, you need the kit that includes the gaskets around the spark plugs and new gaskets around all the bolts.

 

i wouldn't say that's entirely true. funny thing happened last night when i was working on the v. i pulled the valve cover off to respray it with some wrinkle paint since the original finish was peeling and looked like ****. anyways, the valve cover seal actually tore right apart. since it was new years and nothing was open, i was forced to reuse it. just cleaned it off well with brake clean, placed it back into the valve cover, and used the ac delco sealant at the spot that tore. cleaned off the mating surface completely, dabbed a little at the cam arches, torqued to spec and crossed my fingers.
to my surprise, it was bone dry today. i definitely have to credit the sealant though. that ac delco stuff is what gm uses from the factory, and from experience, the same compound that ford uses, except the motorcraft one costs more. forms an incredible bond.
IMO, if the seal and grommets aren't hardened and brittle, care is taken in prep, and you use a wicked sealant like the one mentioned, they can be reused.
sorry for the long *** winded reply lol

 

To each their own. Working as a mechanic ive learned to not take the risk at having to do the job again and just buy new gaskets. Its a 25$ kit for peace of mind. Chances are the original gaskets are all 11-15 years old and it doesnt hurt to replace them regardless. Not that im saying your method is wrong, its just not what i would recommend.

 

oh yeah, for sure. if it were a customer vehicle, without a doubt i would never let them drive out with that seal. but it was my own vehicle and i was in a pinch. if it hasn't leaked before the next time i need to pull the cover, it will be changed for sure.
you're right though. it's no extra labor to replace, so may as well go ahead and do it

 

How much will it cost me at a shop and which shop local or dealer? I dont have faith in my self for a DIY. Give me a system ill do it eyes cloes gimme exhaust and ill bolt it up but i dont do that removing valve covers i seen to many broken bolts

 

its unlikely for you to break a bolt unless your using an impact. Everything there is constantly covered in oil. a shop shouldnt charge more than 1-1.5 hours to do the job.

 

I want to learn to do it.
I'm plenty capable as a mechanic. Multiple motor changes, one swap (see mk2 Jetta with VR6), and I do all my own maintenance on my VWs.
But I know squat about Hondas and how they are and what they need.

Any DIYs out there for doin' the deed?

 

It's SIMPLE! Can be done in 30 mins (maybe an hour if you are slow) without a problem. Here is one I found, no its not SPECIFICLY for a B20 but the concept it the same. Also, it's never a good idea (as mentioned above) to just leave the feeler gauge between the stud and pad and set the lash. You should be sliding it as it's WAY too easy to set too tight of a lash.

http://www.ej8squad.com/thread-17656.html

 

[QUOTE=N3va3vaSatisfi3d;46614275]Also, it's never a good idea (as mentioned above) to just leave the feeler gauge between the stud and pad and set the lash. You should be sliding it as it's WAY too easy to set too tight of a lash.

QUOTE]

obviously you would slide the gauge after the lock nut were tightened to recheck clearance

 

Different folks different strokes. I am not trying to start an argument - just pointing out for a beginner it's not a good idea. Some people wouldn't even notice that the valve is opening as they are tightening it. They think that because thy have the feeler gauge in it the gap won't change. I use the valve lash tool but the way proposed supports failure...

I personally do mine this way:

- Set engine camshaft to base circle for whatever method you want to turn the engine over
- Loosen jam nut on rocker over the valve to be serviced
- Slide feeler gauge in between rocker pad and stud
- Take screwdriver and adjust stud while sliding feeler gauge
- When proper drag is achieved, tighten jam nut
- Recheck valve lash with feeler gauge
- Repeat process as many times as necessary

This is just my way of doing it. I am sure there are a thousand methods. I have tried many methods in almost 5 decades and I guess I am in a "rut" of doing it proper.

 

Not only is this the way you do it, but its the way everyone should do it.

 

that's exactly the way i meant it. sorry for the confusion.

 

CEL came on last night
went and got the codes pulled this morning

P0170 and P0172, both are "fuel trim bank one" rich or lean codes.

might be bad gas...might be defective o2 sensors

thoughts?

OH, and this thing WILL NOT idle when it's below 10* outside. I literally have to hold the gas to keep it alive for 3-4 minutes before it'll idle.
Once it warms up, idles fine (maybe a little bouncy)