At the very minimum, tape off the whole deck of the block so nothing gets down in the bottom end.
It would be great if you could rig up some kind of fixture so every cylinder is done the exact same amount.
Maybe butchering up an old head and using the valveguides to center the cutting bit???

Or how about a fixed jig that bolts to the head that holds a drill in place and you can slowly rotate the crank and feed the piston up into the grinding bit?

IDK, just throwing some ideas out there. "free handing" it might work, but it will be nearly impossible to get it perfect cylinder to cylinder..

 

tell me about it. the better solution is to pull the pistons and replace them with RS slugs, new bearings, rings, hone and machine work. sadly my budget is now way over what i intended but if i can pull this off and make power with this simple setup, it should clear up a lot of repeat questions about the subject. i seen a few pics posted around here but not much documentation of the process.

 

damm pyro great minds think alike. the entire block will be taped off with masking tape. i also need a way to seal the top of the piston so no metal shaving get to the rings. as for the jig, i thought about this but that seems like a new project. im already fabbing up a custom catch can and a homemade valve spring compressor.

here is the dremel i will be using

 

one last thing before i hit the garage again. i bought a used Hondata s200 from a local seller with a broken wire. no big deal i can get another but i started looking closely and i noticed im missing a clip on the "blue box". do i need this clip and what is it for. i need to know asap so i can get a refund. it came on a p28 for 50$ as is. can i use it for my all motor setup. thanks.

 

ok time for an update. in the last 2 days i have been busy as hell. i clayed my motor. heres the results.

b20z2 stock shortblock, gsr head barely milled(see pics below), ctr cams set at 0 intake,0 exhaust, and no head gasket equals my valves were hitting the top of the valve reliefs on the intake side. i dont think the missing head gasket would have cleared it either. anyone running this setup right now most likely has p2v contact.

i knotched the valve reliefs on my pistons and reclayed the motor to +3intake, -3 exhaust with no head gasket and there was no contact. with the head gasket i should have a bit more room to play with. did i set the cams to a resonable spot when i clayed it? anyways heres the pics. tomorrow i will clay one last time but this time im locking all the intake rockers on every cylinder. only reason im doing this is because since it was done by hand, i need to verify every piston clears their valves. im tired good night.

 

more pics. the last pic is my 7yr old son. he wants to build a crx when hes 14. the apple doesnt fall too far from the tree. ill post more pics tomorrow.

 

For free handed valve relief cutting, it looks like its gonna turn out pretty good.

 

I guess its too late, but I was gonna suggest vaseline or wheel bearing grease to fill the gap between the piston and cylinder. Good luck on gettin her all back together!

 

i thought about that as well. the making tape worked great. after each piston was done i blew off the shavings with compressed air and hit the rest of the piston with brake cleaner. no shavings got past the tape.

seriously i was hoping to screw up. that would leave me no choice but to get new pistons.lol the way i see it, this was a fun experience and im sure my new found knowledge on this type of setup will help others. also my motor is an all oem build. i believe the combination of all the parts i bought will be about as potent of a setup you can get with 100% oem internals.

 

I'm also doing a b20vtec at the moment you can check my threads, sounds like you are going in the right direction but I would save a little more and get a better clutch. My buddy had one of those on his bone stock gsr and it went out after 800 miles. Just a heads up google that brand clutch and you'll find good reviews but alot of bad ones as well.

 

thanks man. ill check out your build. if you need help/ advice, let me know. we are both in san antonio



NINJA EDIT...... i just saw your car/build. you need NO help from me.lol i love the powder coated intake manifold. did you get it done here in san antonio?

 

shoul go over the piston tops with some fine steel wool to get rid of any hot spots

 

everything its getting cleaned up. ill be power washing the block and head. then repainting it. as for the pistons im not done. i still need to make sure ALL 16 valve reliefs are good and then im going to clean the pistons up and round out all the sharp edges of the cuts.


today i went to fix the Hondata. hope it works. my buddy solders the cn2 wires directly to the "blue box".

 

Not having any problems with mine, that head musta been shavvveeeeedddd haha. Looking good so far. Can't wait to see wait kinda power you make with being able to run adjustable cam gears. You might as well upgrade the pump too while your at it.

 

this is the service limit to the p72 head. 0.05 inches is equivalent to 1.27 millimeter. my head measured 142 millimeters. i used a square as a strait edge on the base of the ruler when i measured. if my head was milled close or beyond its limits it would measure just under 141mm.

 

well today i defied logic and installed my ARP rod bolts at home while the pistons/rods were still in the block.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT YOU DO THIS!!!! YOU CAN DESTROY YOUR MOTOR. THIS IS A RISK IM WILLING TO TAKE. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.


the old rod bolts came out with very little effort. after i unscrewed the stock nut i took it up as high as it could go leaving about 3 threads on the bolt. i then put the socket and extension over the nut and gave it a few very light taps with a heavy hammer. they literally fall out at this point. make sure your piston is strait up and down when you do this. you dont want side ways forces on the piston.the new ones went in almost as easy. i lubed up the bolts with the lubricant that came with the bolts. i used a magnet to pull the studs up.


feel free to flame but i'de rather spin a bearing than throw a rod.

 

more pics of my rod bolt install.

 

Interesting build. I like your DIY approach. Keep up the good work

 

thanks Tonio. im trying to make chicken soup out of chicken poop!.lol

i also had a fun time removing the flywheel with the motor on the stand. here's what i did to gain access to the 17mm 12pt flywheel bolts.

 

Did you do one bolt at a time, or both?

 

i did one bolt at a time. i dont know how accurate my harbor freight tq wrench is when breaking bolts but it took an average of 35lbs to break the stock rod bolt nuts. you can see in the pics where i put my magnetic pick up tool down the hole and pulled the new stud into place. at that point i setup my clamp with a socket to relief the bolt as it was pressed through. once i got it the majority of the way, i threaded a nut onto the new stud to pull it through completely.


i would put some arp lube on the face of the nut and tq it down with the tq wrench set at 20lbs. i could almost completely pull the bolt through but my wrench would "break" at 20lbs at first try with no lube on the nut. using the lube is very important when pulling in the new stud. if not used your tq wrench will "break" before you even budge the bolt. adding lube made it slide in with ease. i then went up 2 lbs at a time until the stud was flush on the back. you can feel it bottom out. i wouldnt suggest pulling with all your might. anything over stock rod bolt specs of 21lbs may start to distort your rod ends. i untightend the nuts and torqued to 23lbs.

reason why i did this is because stock tq specs are 21lbs and arp suggest 27lbs. i felt 23lbs was a good medium without going too far past factory specs. my crank move as freely as it did prior to the bolt exchange. hope this explains it. total time took me 3 hours snapping about 2 dozen pics.lol i thought i took every precation i could to ensure a correct reliable install without disturbing the bearings or caps. i did not exceed over 28lbs at any point pulling the studs in.

i hope we dont have to rename this thread "ivan's first spun bearing". lol we shall see.

 

i also got around to installing dual valve springs on my exhaust side of my head. i modified a valve spring compressor to fit the springs a little better. onothing a dremel and grinder cant fix.lol this was my first valve spring change. i practiced on a spare gsr head.

 

got a question. can i use my old tps or should i buy a new one?

 

nice build

 

update...motor is assembled and put in. i will be firing her up tomorrow or weds. wish me luck.
first pic is my motor and the second is a skyline rear disk. i think the front was bigger.


also by the last pic below can you tell where i was today?