Lol, indeed, and rightly so concerning the main Q, I meant the Q on track alignments.

 

+1 toe will eat the crap out of your tires, and is completely unnecessary. -4* front camber is way more than you need, as is -3* in the rear. You can keep toe at 0, -2.5*F/-1.5* rear camber.

People who know what they're doing won't use an OBX. Take that for what its worth. Yes, some of them are fine, but yes, some of them are also junk. You are taking a gamble if you go that route.

 

I must disagree. Been driving for six months now with +1 and, to my wonder, there's no abnormal wear. This on a dd EK 195/50/15 45 offset.

And as theory predicts this does give noticable agile turn-in, giving way to a slight both nervousness and loss of straight stability (on more or less deformed roads).

 

Well, me and are in the market for a camber and toe laser adjustment tool, if you guys recommend one, please let me know. I can't stand these alignment shops, they ALWAYS, ALWAYS do it wrong, my alignment is so crappy that I can't go faster than 100mph or the car will feel crazy, and it was supposed to be right. Is either do it yourself or go 10 times to the stupid shop to make it right. I was taking a look in this one:

http://www.advancedracing.com/laser_toe_gauge.php



As for the diff, is there any OEM LSD that would fit an B16A2 final drive or I should stick with Mfactory?


Sorry to post all that here, I just don't want to keep making topics everywhere.



Thanks again, sorry for my noob-ish

 

I don't know how that works for you, I've had less toe destroy tires. Very recently I had that amount of toe completely obliterate a tire down to the cords in 700 miles. How much mileage have you put on them?

Victor, the OEM ITR LSD should work with that FD. The MFactory is another good unit, and these days isn't much more money.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-H...ht_1514wt_1167


350 shipped sounds AWESOME, will be getting it next week, hope it can give more corner exit traction

 

While I was out I realised there is probably a misunderstanding concerning the units I specified toe in. I specified toe in mm, not in degrees (decimal or sexagesimal / x.x° or xx°xx'xx").

So 1mm toe equals 0.08° (0.075°) (decimal degrees) and 0°05' (0°04.5') (sexagesimal or degrees-minutes-seconds).

Note that toe in mm refers to the axle (both wheels) and that the degrees mentioned above are per one wheel.

 

Ah, yes, that would be a very significant difference

 

I didn't even know that you could do an alignment based on mm instead of degrees

 

Note that Kristo is in Belgium. Those crazy Europeans and the metric system

Edit: Wait! Does Brazil follow the metric system as well?

 

^^ i belive they do.

 

Of course!

METRIC >>> ALL


BUT, we use degrees for alignment hahaha, and PSI for tire pressure, other than that is KMH, Kilos, and decimal stuff easy to deal with.

I'm in america for 4 months now, I got used to this Imperial mess, but, IT IS ABSOLUTELY NONSENSE.. Inches, Yards, Feet, Mile.

 

Most alignment machines in the US read toe in fractions of an inch, which could easily be converted to mm.

 

So, suppose a specified toe (in this case toe-in) of -2mm and a 15" rim diameter of 381mm gives an angle of 0.1504° (decimal degrees) (0.15 rounded) or 9' (degree-minutes). Note again this is angle/one wheel.

Note that changing rim size for same given toe (mm) will result in (slightly) smaller angles for larger wheels, and reverse.

 

Great info!

 

Any other props guys?


The tokikos just arrived..

Now i'm thinking of putting the 8kg springs in the back, and get a pair of 12kg for the front, what you guys think?


Or I should use the 8/6 for a while the go stiffer?

 

only thing about kristo.s picture that is off is the way you measure. that might be an easy way to do it on a kart or a formula car that is open wheel. but if you were to "string" the car than you would use that method just vice versa and measure the outside of the rim.

also to what adam said. his specs were my specs last year. i still dont think i will change much of it. maybe the front camber angle at most. maybe a front toe setting for an autox towards the end of the year.

also telling someone to get this or that is almost irrelevant when it comes to mods like arbs and springs etc because..a. they might drive totally different than you. b. what works for you wont work for the next guy. c. and mainly..if he doesnt know why x does y on his car then he isnt going to notice the change from of x from a to b.

 

i would stay 8/6 if i were you..just from reading your thread for one. and two..those dampers are going to eat massive poo with higher rates.

hell back in the day i had tokico whites and took a dump with lowering springs.

 

How can a tokico perform well at a circuit?