Prepping my car for paint:Am i doing it right?
There is no need for body work in my car but i plan on prepping it to send it to Macco.
This is what im thinking of doing.
(I AM ONLY PREPPING DOORS ,ROOF,AND REAR PANELS.)
1.Wet sand with 400 grit.

2.After completely sanding ,I plan on spraying an undercoat.
2 coats of 800k Primer Surfacer. Then let it dry for 24 hours.

3..After primer is completely dry.I will lightly Scuff it with 400 dry.

4.Once all that is done. I will then send it to Macco.

Is this alright?
I Only decided to wetsand the car and fix a minor dent in the rear.
The Prep..
Car IS DIRTY IN PICS
lights..mirrors antenna..etc were removed during prep.
The prep was still not finished in these pics...



About to begin sanding front end.

After Macco.




It came out way better than i expected.
The cons were:
overspray on tires and radiator.
Some tiny bits of dirt in the paint.
This is what im thinking of doing.
(I AM ONLY PREPPING DOORS ,ROOF,AND REAR PANELS.)1.Wet sand with 400 grit.

2.After completely sanding ,I plan on spraying an undercoat.
2 coats of 800k Primer Surfacer. Then let it dry for 24 hours.

3..After primer is completely dry.I will lightly Scuff it with 400 dry.

4.Once all that is done. I will then send it to Macco.

Is this alright?

I Only decided to wetsand the car and fix a minor dent in the rear.
The Prep..
Car IS DIRTY IN PICS
lights..mirrors antenna..etc were removed during prep.
The prep was still not finished in these pics...



About to begin sanding front end.

After Macco.




It came out way better than i expected.
The cons were:
overspray on tires and radiator.
Some tiny bits of dirt in the paint.
Last edited by SVOHK; Oct 13, 2010 at 10:41 AM.
your on the right track
but i would just use a 3m scuff pad. Grey or maroon in color may do the trick.
But really all you should have to do is scuff the clearcoat of your cars existing finish to give your new paintjob something to bite into so it sticks. a scuff pad will do that. no primer necessary.
but im not a professional..
but i would just use a 3m scuff pad. Grey or maroon in color may do the trick.
But really all you should have to do is scuff the clearcoat of your cars existing finish to give your new paintjob something to bite into so it sticks. a scuff pad will do that. no primer necessary.
but im not a professional..
your on the right track
but i would just use a 3m scuff pad. Grey or maroon in color may do the trick.
But really all you should have to do is scuff the clearcoat of your cars existing finish to give your new paintjob something to bite into so it sticks. a scuff pad will do that. no primer necessary.
but im not a professional..
but i would just use a 3m scuff pad. Grey or maroon in color may do the trick.
But really all you should have to do is scuff the clearcoat of your cars existing finish to give your new paintjob something to bite into so it sticks. a scuff pad will do that. no primer necessary.
but im not a professional..

But i dont plan on using a scuff pad since its been through 2 paintjobs so far(a ricey paintjob,and a shitty paintjob.)
Gotta do it right.
if there's no body work, or any flaking or burnt paint/clear there's no need for primer...if the previous paint isnt that bad, then just sand with 400 and it's ready for paint...it would help if you showed some pics of the car to see what kind of state its in...
Because the only prep that was done to the car was sanding the car with 400..(thats it no more no less)
Then taken to the paintbooth to paint.
That's the reason i wanna add the extra step of adding primer.
Ill try to add pictures when i begin prepping.
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There is no need for body work in my car but i plan on prepping it to send it to Macco.
This is what im thinking of doing.
(I AM ONLY PREPPING DOORS ,ROOF,AND REAR PANELS.)
1.Wet sand with 400 grid.
Yes
2.After completely sanding ,I plan on spraying primer.("Sandable Primer")
not sure which primer your referring too
3.After 1 hour or 2 of drying, I will then wet sand again with 800 or 1000 sand paper.
(idk if you have too?)
just scuff it with 400 dry
4.Once all that is done. I will then send it to macco.
yes
Is this alright?
This is what im thinking of doing.
(I AM ONLY PREPPING DOORS ,ROOF,AND REAR PANELS.)1.Wet sand with 400 grid.
Yes
2.After completely sanding ,I plan on spraying primer.("Sandable Primer")
not sure which primer your referring too
3.After 1 hour or 2 of drying, I will then wet sand again with 800 or 1000 sand paper.
(idk if you have too?)just scuff it with 400 dry
4.Once all that is done. I will then send it to macco.
yes
Is this alright?

this is a strong reason why paintjobs fail. people trying to do the work themselves and not really knowing what they're doing. maaco isnt liable for what happens to your car if you prepped it yourself.
in my opinion 400 really is pusshing it in terms of it being too aggressive. but then again to the untrained eye you probably wouldnt be able to tell. but i'd finish it off in 500-800.
if you really plan on using that spray can, then sand your car first with 220-320 to let the primer bite in better. since its thicker then basecoat is.... let dry.. block with 400-600... and leave it like that for paint... if you dont primer it then its perfectly fine in my opinion to just prep the car with 500-800 or a grey scotchbrite only
if any of this confuses you. then please dont do it yourself =D
lolsss jk
in my opinion 400 really is pusshing it in terms of it being too aggressive. but then again to the untrained eye you probably wouldnt be able to tell. but i'd finish it off in 500-800.
if you really plan on using that spray can, then sand your car first with 220-320 to let the primer bite in better. since its thicker then basecoat is.... let dry.. block with 400-600... and leave it like that for paint... if you dont primer it then its perfectly fine in my opinion to just prep the car with 500-800 or a grey scotchbrite only
if any of this confuses you. then please dont do it yourself =D
lolsss jk
this is a strong reason why paintjobs fail. people trying to do the work themselves and not really knowing what they're doing. maaco isnt liable for what happens to your car if you prepped it yourself.
in my opinion 400 really is pusshing it in terms of it being too aggressive. but then again to the untrained eye you probably wouldnt be able to tell. but i'd finish it off in 500-800.
if you really plan on using that spray can, then sand your car first with 220-320 to let the primer bite in better. since its thicker then basecoat is.... let dry.. block with 400-600... and leave it like that for paint... if you dont primer it then its perfectly fine in my opinion to just prep the car with 500-800 or a grey scotchbrite only
if any of this confuses you. then please dont do it yourself =D
lolsss jk
in my opinion 400 really is pusshing it in terms of it being too aggressive. but then again to the untrained eye you probably wouldnt be able to tell. but i'd finish it off in 500-800.
if you really plan on using that spray can, then sand your car first with 220-320 to let the primer bite in better. since its thicker then basecoat is.... let dry.. block with 400-600... and leave it like that for paint... if you dont primer it then its perfectly fine in my opinion to just prep the car with 500-800 or a grey scotchbrite only
if any of this confuses you. then please dont do it yourself =D
lolsss jk
Yup, I agree with you there.
But i might just get my hands on a spray gun instead.
Dont get your hopes up with this paint job. You really should use a spray gun and do a sealing primer and then do a high build primer as well. Body work is very tedious and unforgiving when you use cheap products or half assed labor
honestly i wouldnt prime it period....i would scuff the entire car 320 front to back then take it to macco and have them seal the car then paint it.
with my car that i did myself i sanded the entire car 320 then used PPG 2Ksealer (dnt remeber the number off the top of my head) then based it cleared it baked it. my car didnt need any body work
with my car that i did myself i sanded the entire car 320 then used PPG 2Ksealer (dnt remeber the number off the top of my head) then based it cleared it baked it. my car didnt need any body work
hows the clear coat on the car? the sandable primer in the spray can i wouldnt have issues with ( wouldnt use rustoleum, i would use SEM primer filler) if you were only using it to primer your body work areas. But you need to have a primer on the car prior to painting or you gona see the original color through your next spray. You can get a ready to use out of the can grip tight sealer from Limco (PS21nr) that you can spray with a spray gun, 2 coats, much better then using a spray can, allow that to dry for a full 24 hours before you scuff with 400 lightly.
hows the clear coat on the car? the sandable primer in the spray can i wouldnt have issues with ( wouldnt use rustoleum, i would use SEM primer filler) if you were only using it to primer your body work areas. But you need to have a primer on the car prior to painting or you gona see the original color through your next spray. You can get a ready to use out of the can grip tight sealer from Limco (PS21nr) that you can spray with a spray gun, 2 coats, much better then using a spray can, allow that to dry for a full 24 hours before you scuff with 400 lightly.
So once i finish sanding with 400, I spray 2 coats of Limco PS21nr?
How much would a gallon cost?And where could i buy some?
http://partsplustools.com/pdfs/limco_undercoats.pdf
not really sure where you can find Limco sealer in your area...(valley of the shadows) but in jersey you can get it at motorcar colors in morrestown. Its a BASF company so if you can find someone in your area that sells BASF paint you should be able to get it there.
do your body work, you have to spray your areas that you do the body work with some sort of primer first before you wet sand the whole car with the 400, then once that is done, tack cloth the car once its dried, or whatever method your gona use, prepsol whatever. I prefer tack clothes. Spray the sealer with a spray gun, 2 coats. Let it dry 24 hours, scuff with 400, then send to maaco.
http://partsplustools.com/pdfs/limco_undercoats.pdf
not really sure where you can find Limco sealer in your area...(valley of the shadows) but in jersey you can get it at motorcar colors in morrestown. Its a BASF company so if you can find someone in your area that sells BASF paint you should be able to get it there.
http://partsplustools.com/pdfs/limco_undercoats.pdf
not really sure where you can find Limco sealer in your area...(valley of the shadows) but in jersey you can get it at motorcar colors in morrestown. Its a BASF company so if you can find someone in your area that sells BASF paint you should be able to get it there.
I edited step 2 also and will be posting pics as i take progress..
I completly forgot about this thread... 
i added pics... read descriptions please..
good and bad comments are welcome.

i added pics... read descriptions please..
good and bad comments are welcome.
dont scuff aint paint with red 3m pad!! those are for scuffin before primer, grey before paint. u wont see the scratches in ur white as much, but when u get paint metallics over the red scuff pad area, the metallics will settle in in the deeper scratches, looks terrible
dont scuff aint paint with red 3m pad!! those are for scuffin before primer, grey before paint. u wont see the scratches in ur white as much, but when u get paint metallics over the red scuff pad area, the metallics will settle in in the deeper scratches, looks terrible
no scuffing was involved. only wetsanding.




