On McMaster under 'color' for this garolite, they list either brown OR black, so maybe it's whatever they have in stock in that thickness?

Also, I did some testing last night with a torch. That brown 'laminate' is just that. A very thin laminate. It slowly begins to char and eventually flake off after I held the torch to it for about two and a half minutes. I also took a chance on its insulating properties, and put my palm against the other side, opposite of the torch, and it was still ice cold to the touch (40 degrees outside). The results may be different if it had been subject to 200-250° for an extended period of time.

As for the FITV/IACV/TB, I bypassed the coolant from those almost immediately after I bought this car. It snowed here last night, leaving about a 1.5" accumulation, but that's the first time it's done that in the four years I've been here, so I don't really need to worry about those parts freezing up.

 

Perfecting the ports...

One down, three to go...







This stuff is rock solid! It's 100x easier to work with than the aluminum, but even so, after I drill out the shape of the ports, I can't even hammer out the center. I have to dremel out every piece before the center will even budge.

 

yeah man, that these things are strong. Thanks for the update!

 

whats up? :D

 

Looks like I'm in extreme need of getting this manifold installed with the larger TB...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/f23a1-bisimoto-level-2-camshaft-independent-test-2526367/

 

Yeah, these f22/f23 tb are small! I mean, you can use the h23 tb and bore that out and if it's possible port Mach it to the f23 IM. Or just finish the whole IM swap with it being port matched and bored. That would help a little more. Of course you knew that

 

Yeah, I'm planning on a 70mm TB from Chris on HMT, port matched to the H23 IM. My tuner wants to pretty much gut and port the IM as much as possible before I install it. I'm not sure if I want to go that far, but one thing's for sure. It needs more air.

 

Update!

FINALLY picked this back up and got the F23 ports finished. Just need to taper them downwards, then taper the other side out to the H23 gasket. I'm going to try to get this manifold on the weekend of the 15th-17th.

I've ordered all new gaskets, seals, o-rings and such, so hopefully the parts I have right now will bolt up with no issues come D-day. The water pipe issue is still up in the air, but I have both F23 and H23pipes, including the tools and parts to join them if need be.

I will work on the ports and try to finish up the plate this weekend, and post up pictures once it's done.

Here's the plate from the other day before I did the final shaping on the F23 side.

 

Bout time dude!

 

keep it going!

 

Here's the reason I've been picking up the manifold!

Fresh head, cleaned, 3 angle valve job, new valve seals, and milled .030".








Extended studs for the new manifold and spacer plate, and gasket matched ports.








IAB plate with butterflies removed.



Holes sealed, and ports bored .030" over.



Gasket matched ports.

 

H23 Plenum bored out to 70mm...




Skunk2 70mm TB






S2 eating the stock TB...




S2 gasket on stock TB...




Partially assembled H23 IM vs stock (and very dirty) F23 IM









[WARNING: THIS GETS GHETTO]

Here is my 'solution' to the issue of water pipe fitment. I have both F23 and H23 water pipes, and compared them side by side. The H23 water pipe won't work because the water pump side is much larger than the F23's. I was going to join the bottom half of the F23 with the top of the H23's, but figured it would be just as easy to use the complete F23 pipe, only to split it in two and give it some flex to let it fit better. So there it is...




Here is my jewel. All the fuel rails I've seen place the fuel input on the passenger side when mounted to the H23 IM correctly. This H22A fuel rail matches the H23's posts exactly, and keeps the fuel input on the driver's side so you don't have to extend the fuel line. (I hate modifying sensitive parts like high pressure lines)

 

Looks really good!


flip the screw clamps arond on the water pipe so that IF it leaks you can somewhat reasonably tighten them up while it is on the car. The way you have them it looks like it would be a real bear to do it. I don't think that is too ghetto but you might want to try and put a bead on the end of them to keep the hose on. Not sure if it's necessary or not.

real simple DIY tool to do it here
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...ler-pipes.html

 

this is one of the things Ive been needing to know about. would your stock TB bolt to the H23 IM? I know that would be rediculous because the TB is probably tiny compared the the plenum openinign on the H23 IM, but could someone buy a H22/23 TB, and hog out the plenum on a F23 IM to bolt it up? also, do you think your stock F23 IM had enough meat to hog out the ports to match them to a H22/23 head without having to make a spacer? I might want to do it anyways just for the insulating effect? but not sure.

also, when you say you bypasses the coolant flowing through the FITV and IACV, how does the engine run without those? you still have them plugged in just without coolant flowing through them?

 

To answer the first question: h23/h22/b1/b2/f23 TBs are able to bolt up to each others plenum.

 

alright cool, thanks. one step closer to the swap then.

 

Well, the IM is bolted up with the plate and head, and the head is torqued down to the block. I'm calling it a night. Tomorrow I'll have to connect the fuel feed, coolant lines, bolt up the alt and PS pump, connect all the vacuum hoses (I'm trying to eliminate as many as possible) and that should be it!

I'm STOKED about getting it running again, but I'll have to be careful with it until I can get a new valve springs and retainers. The reason I'm swapping the head was because a retainer recently snapped in half and eventually dropped the valve.

That photo was just a mock-up of the pipe. I have some better T clamps that I'll be putting on it tomorrow.

From what I've seen H series TB's bolt on to F series, B series bolt on to F series, and B series bolt to D series, so not counting the differences in IM bore sizes, all B/D/F/H series TB's bolt up to each other.

I didn't bother looking at the F23 IM, but the H23 IM probably wouldn't have a problem being port matched to a 65mm TB, and maybe even a 68mm TB. With my 70mm, there was a TINY bit of material left, but not enough to make a seal, so it required filling.

 

looking at the pics of the IMs again, Im sure that with the thick baseplate already cast with it, and the O.D. of the runners, I bet it wouldnt be a problem to port match the stock manifold to a H22 head. now I gotta go find the stock size F23 TB, and find what honda donor has a large TB but one that sells for cheap. its too bad this car is a DD, I dont get to tear into it until Im ABSOLUTELY sure of every possible problem ill run into and have EVERY part im going to need sitting next to it... because the car cant be down too long

 

I'm not sure I understand you correctly. It sounds like you asking whether you can port an F23 intake manifold to fit an H22 head??

You would NEVER match an F23 runner to an H22 port. I don't believe there would be enough material, and if there were, it would be a TERRIBLE idea because air velocity would decrease to almost nothing when it encountered the expanded volume. They don't even bolt up with each other. Besides, the H22 has far better aftermarket support with manifolds like the Euro-R and Skunk2 available. Kind of like pulling a perfectly good 350 out of an old chevy, and replacing it with an inline 6cyl.

You're not gonna find anything of considerable size in stock form, maybe a couple mm larger than a stock F23. However, you can get a 65mm or 68mm TB from PB tuning or Inline4.com for ~$145. Like I said before, almost any Honda TB will bolt up.

 

alright, I just figured since a H23 bolts to a F23, a F23 would bolt to a H22. so the H22/H23 has a different bolt pattern?

and I only wanted to run the stock one just until I found a good deal on a used skunk 2 or stock H22, I guess Im gonna have to find that deal before I start the project then.

 

H22 bolt pattern is different from H23/F23/F22. You'll end up redrilling mounting holes, grinding at the flange and finding that some ports do not line up when you try to get an F23 IM to fit an H22 and vise-versa.

You COULD just buy my Euro-R manifold.

http://www.hondamarketplace.com/show....php?t=2535432

I can take a little more off the top than what's listed, but from the sound of it, you're not even willing to spend that much. You've gotta pay to play, or get creative and take chances. Either way, you end up spending more than you intended.

 

Some updates...

 

Had to grind the bracket off the fuel line's banjo bolt to fit the JDM H22 fuel rail.




























Huge throttle Body




Flange clearance




Tapered ports





















Fresh ports




Gasket Matched










Fresh milled surface

 

very impressive AFA, just wish this was my car being worked on... haha

 

Looking really good, I love the throttle body! I cant wait to see some new numbers!