I recently picked up a 1994 Acura Integra LS..

I decided to buy a t3t4 turbo kit. Comes with a Garrett 50 trim turbo.
I also purchased a cometic headgasket and arp head studs.

What Im wondering if I should I replace my pistons and bearings on the bottom end to be able to run 8psi safely without too much concern for me throwing a rod and blowing my motor.

I did some reading and found that running 8psi on a stock b18b1 with a 50 trim turbo without replacing any internals is a very bad idea.

What should I do?

 

Running boost on stock internals is always a bad idea. But the low-comp B18B can handle 8psi easily (not fully stock mind you, but stock internals). Hell, the B18C5 can handle 12.
Nonetheless, using a T3/T4 for 8psi is sinful; a T3 offers 8psi with a lot less lag. Jackson also makes a B-series 8psi supercharger, if that's really your target boost level.
So since you're likely going to get bored of blowing single digits, do it the right way & build up your bottom end. Sleeves, pistons, rods, & definitely new bearings.

 

How about running it like this for a few months until I can rebuild my motor?

 

its not bad running 8lb's on a ls..have a good tune and your set.

 

Ok, good tune is 400-500 right? But in the long run its going to save me from having to rebuild a blown motor

 

Guys never set a set a goal based on psi. Always set a power goal. With the right turbo application matched for your power goal, psi becomes irrelevant. Torque, high cylinder pressures and detonation is what blows motors. So whoever shot you that "8psi-bad idea" needs to be slapped, because different turbos make different power at the same pressure level.

OP, if you have good compression and a healthy motor, and a good reputable tuner, you can run 300 whp safely on a stock inernal LS (see sig). A Garrett 50 trim is an excellent choice for that particular motor, its very responsive as far as maximum spool. The ARP headstuds are good insurance, also.

I had a Borg Warner 50 trim on my LS and loved it. I got full pressure around 3800 RPMs. What a/r ratio is your exh. housing?

 

Power is what kill the motor, not psi.

 

8 psi is ok with your motor. get a 2 step colder spark plug get a base map injectors and you should be ok

 

Fixed. ;-)

 

the ls motor is very forgiving under boost conditions, especially if the power level is below 300whp. i cant tell you how much **** i put my 200k mile stock ls motor under at 250whp and it never left me stranded anywhere.


on a stock map sensor you will be limited to 10 psi safely, and that boost on an ls motor with a 50 trim will keep you below the 300whp level that stock motors start running into big problems at. get a safe simple tune on it, air fuel 11.5:1 and like 20-22* total timing on 93 pump gas with some bkr7e plugs gapped to around .030 should be right where you want to wind up tune wise for like 8-10 psi

 

Awesome, I really appreciate the feedback. Very helpful!
Thank you!

 

boosted ls's are the ****!!! i had a bone stock one that made 307 whp and like 245 torque or something.it took 12 lbs to do so but it was a fun fun set up. and stupid reliable.

 

I have a customer/car that is still on the same STOCK LS bottom end for the last 3 seasons.

1st season owner, it was LS-T with a Turbonetics 50 trim. Tuned @ 15psi on pump/meth. I would say it made around 300whp on that setup. Just street tuned that year as we didin't have a dyno yet.

Next season with same owner, the same stock LS bottom end was utilized with a GSR head and the same turbo kit besides PTE SC61 turbo. This car was ran on 12psi and pumpgas making around ~350whp and a daily E85 tune on 17psi making 417whp.

This season, same stock LS bottom end and LS head as the new owner bent a valve in the Vtec head and couldn't afford to re-build that setup and needed to compromise somewhere. He opted to keep it LS-Turbo and the car is now making ~245whp on 9psi and pumpgas and on an E85 tune it makes 312whp creeping to 17psi. Turned down the boost on the pumpgas and E85 per the new owner's request.

Hope this helps

 

PSI is always relevant. Horsepower is ultimately a rating of fuel consumption, and fuel input is relevant to air intake (& naturally A/F ratio), which is relevant to volumetric efficiency.
High cylinder pressures are what produces power (provided adequate fuel) - and torque is the only thing spooling your turbo.
Generally, given the VE of a stock LS (maybe 76%) the volume of induction is key; it offers a very predictable potential of power output relative to target PSI.
I fully agree that proper sizing & associated hardware can make a noticeable difference, but given the size & trim (A/R excluded) of the turbo he bought, the output is still very predictable. I'll estimate his output between 300-320whp & 220ft-lb torque with an adequate tune.

 

How about Injectors? I have a buddy of mine with 450cc injectors from his DSM, he offered to sell them to me for 100. Do I need them or not? I know as I push more air I need bigger injectors to keep the air/fuel ratio.

Right now my car is running very rich. I feel as if I am just spitting unused fuel sometimes!

 

Go google "turbo faq" and read the beesandgoats link 3 times completely. Hondas arent like most other cars. The absense of a MAF sensor means any change in air delivery is NOT compensated for.

Not getting a tune and going with a piggyback/fmu will be like pouring sugar into your gas tank. A cheap street tune can be less than the cost of a CHEAP shortblock, and make mroe power than a piggy or fmu.

 

Agreed, and he will in a nice "sweet spot" at that power with that particular turbo.

Speaking of a/r's, OP, what a/r exh. housing did you opt for?

 

.50 on the front and .63 on the exh

 

Please don't go spreading misinformation around like this junk again...you bring down the forum...

 

This post is a bunch of garballed information.

How can you say power means nothing? Power is a direct measure of hard the motor is working, not psi (in the broad sense). When you go an say xx psi is to much your talking out of your *** unless you know the turbo size. Thats why turbos are rated for HP and not psi.

 

Yeah running a turbo on stock internals is not a good idea.

 

Any proof on why its NOT? And bad tunes & crappy motors dont count, so leave them out of your explanation.

 

Id personally pick up ur friends blue topped injectors ( dont forget the resistor box ) and a walbro 255 fuel pump. Dont forget a clutch either guy! Try and get it dyno tuned ( Not street tuned ) 8 PSI will be fine on ur stock bottom end ( im running 16 no problems for over a year ). Just depends on the HP number not the PSI. And from seeing/hearing/reading and LS is a great motor to boost on stock internals. Im running the NGK BKR7E plugs ( they are replaced by the NGK 4644 I believe now ). ITS ALL IN THE TUNE!

 

^ Two year old thread.

 

Oh damn, maybe I should wise the fu** up then! ( :