<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GSR..../thread. srsly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

 

If your looking for torque, honda isn't the best place to start, since none of them really have credible torque to impress with..

Alot of people like to say HP sells and torque wins races, well personally if thats the case, i would still take a b16 over a b18 or b20.


B16 FACTS
1. more HP SON
2. known reputation for reliability is better
3. better rod-stroke ratio, near perfect actually
4. higher reving with vtec combined with a short gear transmission
5. alot better head construction compared to others.
6. #1 stunna, almost seen everywhere, almost all the time, been around since 88-2001, almost always used in scca and other racers modified hondas, and other competetions, my spelling sucks, blow me.

Anyways...i could go on, but im dead beat tired as im typing this right now.

 

Looks like Contender25 killed the unkillable thread. Vtecsyndrome.... You said you are starting and B20 Vtec build? I have started one a couple of days ago. Bottom end with CP 12.1 CP pistons. Had the crank balanced, new bearings and rings. I am starting the head soon. Ive been fishing around for info. There is a lot out there. Let me know how your build goes. I am searching for answers on a couple of minor details. Mostly personal perference issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenpower92ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who in their right mind would even concider chosing a 1.6 over a 2.0 liter. People that have B16s think they have everything when really they got their d series bottom end with a dohctop end w/ vtec and get 160 hp and 118 ft.lbs. of torque! Now if your gonna put the B16 head on the B20 now we're talkn.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You sir, are a F-U-C-K-I-N-G MORON. Please don't ever post some nonsense like that again.

A D-series bottom end has HUGE stroke and small bore... the b16 is actually and OVERSQUARE motor (cause you don't know what means, thats when the bore is larger then the stroke to make it safer to rev in the upper areas of the rpm band.

You couldn't be any more wrong in your further arguements... I have a B16 ED sedan that has run 14.8xx before with MINIMAL work. You probably can't drive worth a ****... which is becoming more and more apparent with each incoherent ignorant statement you post.

Now shut your filthy friggin mouth and leave our peaceful forum and return to trailer from where you came. We don't need trouble makers like you in here wasting everyones [freak]in time.

 

If you are going to leave both stock, then buy the B16A. If you are not then buy the b20Z or B20B. It will be slower but you can later put swap the head and pistons.

I just bought a complete b16A swap with Y1 tranny and new 90-93 axles for 1400 shipped not including the ECU. So I bought the ECU for 70 shipped here on the clasifieds.

Thats cheap, but I think if you are smart enough you can get a b20 swap with cable tranny for that price or less.

or you can buy the b16A and turbo later....... Its up to you, I personally like N/A more than turbo.

 

holy dead thread revival lol

btw my stock B16 2000 si ran a 15.4 at 88 mph on 22 in slicks lol

 

I traded my b16 for a b20 w/p8r head. I didn't like having to rev out the motor just to make power. I have still yet to run the b20 as I am having some starting problems but I bet it will be more fun with just bolt-ons than a b16 with just bolt-ons. My opinion though. I would rather have more torque and b20's are underrated.

 

2 things...first, previously mentioned, the vtec head is where it's at. it comes with the b16 and not the b20. you simply get better technology.

2nd, cost of gas. getting close to $4 a gallon, the b16 is a smaller mouth to feed. add more HP out of the gate, and it's a no brainer.

at least for me!

 

b20z or b20b w/p8r head with bolt ons make about the same power as b16s with bolt-ons(especially first gen b16s) plus more torque to boot.

They are two totally different motors so it is more personal preference.
Low end power/low revs vs high rpm power/high revs.

Either way is a good choice depending on what you wanna do.

 

alright alright fellas this thread is long enough.. i'm almost sure..we all know we would just cream on a b20frank with that top hat from a men's warehouse but **** runs from two ******** sometimes in america. Then again they got Americans trying to think like Japs and the Asians trying to impress the Koreans for some Kia bullshit. I know one thang's for certain...im goin b20vtec. What? Yes i said it and I'm stickin to my guns figura income with my billet income..... NOT! Somone guhive me their cherrypicker cuz I'm tired of pickin them myself!!!!

don't be copywrighten my heavy **** i downloaded from my brain dawgz

 

I DO realize that this is a LONG tread. But the fact that I SIMULTANEOUSLY had a B16A in a 1988 CRX SI AND a B20Z in a 1988 Civic STD HB puts me in a unique position to respond to this thread and lay this topic to rest ONCE AND FOR ALL. So which would I take?

<FONT SIZE="14">B20Z!</FONT>

No, it doesn't have VTEC. But even with an LS transmission on it AND with the disadvantage of being in a HB (vs a CRX of about the same weight, but better aerodynamics), that B20Z HB would run EVERY BIT AS FAST in the quarter mile as the B16A CRX (both had i/h/e). And since I drove BOTH cars, you can't blame it on anyone's driving. When you stomped on the gas in fifth gear on the freeway, both would pick up speed just as fast! The difference? First of all, with the LS transmission, it wasn't screaming at close to 5000RPM on the freeway at the same speed. And just driving around town, it was NO CONTEST between the two. Simply put, the B20Z HB felt like a midsized car with a decent sized V6 under the hood, while the B16A CRX felt like, well, the four-banger that it is. Gas mileage? Dead even between the two at about 27MPG city and 33MPG freeway. But the REAL kicker? I still own the B20Z (although in another car), but NOT the B16A. I think that says it all.

One more thing to consider. PLENTY of people trash the B20Z because of its low HP ratings. But that's the rating that Honda gives for a B20 used stock in a CR-V. If you run it in typical swap configuration, with 1994-1995 LS intake manifold, LS exhaust manifold or header, and 1992-1995 LS ECU (OBDI PR4 or P75), you will see HP figures that are MUCH, MUCH, MUCH higher than Honda's figures. In fact, they will NOT be MUCH lower than B16A numbers with the same mods. And this is NON-VTEC. In other words, power output that is roughly the same as a B16A represents the WORST CASE SCENARIO with a B20. Go VTEC and there is no competition.


Modified by StorminMatt at 4:42 AM 3/29/2008

 

B20 or even LS/vtec is the way to go...i have a built b20/vtec sleeved for all those that know b20 cylinder walls are crap and cant to to much high compression and i love it...i figure its the next best thing to a k-swap and in a 91 ef hatch its hella crazy

 

If you dont like reving out your motor then why are you dealing with Honda's? That's their claim to fame!!! Spoon motors with 10K redlines.... Im baffled by your comment.

 

you do realize it's been over a year since the last post?

 

Thanks for pointing out the obvious! Even though its been over a year you still managed to find your way to the trend and apparently had nothing better to comment on then my post.

 

Like StorminMatt has mentioned, i also have had both the B16a and the B20Z. The B20Z is the winner. There are many reasons for this.Like in many other threads, i have talked about how the B20 is an under rated motor hp wise. I still think its mostly because of the poor exhaust manifold that comes with it, terrible design. Anybody who swaps the engine, uses a header, which for that engine makes a huge increase in power. Stock rating is 146hp and 142 ft lbs tq, i can tell you the with a header is more like 160hp and 146 ft lbs tq......its the torque that owns the B16, and it is a faster engine.

 

what's also obvious is that this thread is over 2 years old...and the OP probably already put the engine in

 

Who cares if the thread is old... Consider it an update.

b20's yeild very usefull power as low as 2krpm; therfore, you really (dont need) to shift alot. I casually pull out of slow turns in 4th like a b16 would in 3rd. Also, a b20 will take a b16 on the highway all day long (both given a b16 trans)... but the b20 cant go faster than 110-115ish...

Personal experience so dont call me out on stating bullshit or being biased.

 

just put the b16 head on tha b20 and u would have both and u will be happy..

 

^bump

 

im dropping in a full swap jdm b16a withaem true timing cams and ITR intake mani with proper tune for $850 inmy ej6 ... please tell me you can get a FULL swapp for less and then maybe JUST maybe I will "like" h22's .. But I would still never consider dropping one in ..

My opinion its a retards motor and if your h22 is such an inspiration for bigger better motors please tell me when you have ever seen ur precious h22 on the track ? And I mean continuously ... ?? K20 and b series are always ALWAYS on tracs. .

ALSO .. Ur brother beat a vette in a quater mile ? What does your brother have done to it ..cuz yout bragging about stock h22s and I highly doubt

and wouldnt you have to UP your h22 to touch a vette? so why are you talking about b16s spending $ to touch a h22 ..

I also want to give your brother congrats on big a "good driver" .. That's what it really boils down to .

And sucking ur bothers TEET .. lmaoo .. H 22s .. HAHA

 

hmm a b16 or a b20???

b18

 

PAGES of post...I didn't even make it past this one..

H's are for WHAT?????


We online, i'm not even gonna do this like you're face to face with me but i'll put it like this, I'll be in California first 3 weeks of the next month, first time my cars been on the west side. I'll have a laptop and 4G phone, i'll log in, tell you where I am (Preferably a track but whatever)...

1 Run I will make you rescind that comment. In fact you'll prolly rock an H motor in your avy after i'm done with you.


H's are for homo's you must've lost your god damn mind man...

 

There is an H Long Block on sale right now on b20 for about 6 and change if i'm not mistaken and another one for like 8 and change and only 1 of them has something wrong with it.


If someone bought my Short Block and Bare Head for $300 together RIGHT NOW...they could spend another $400, and completely assemble stock JDM h22 block and head.

The TYPE S Swap that I have Turbo'd in my EG right now was originally purchased (When I first got it, years ago) for $700 and a set of rims with 77K, Head, Block, needed hardware AND mounts...


Just throwing it out there...H's are out there for cheap, if you buy it or Platform Jump (Finding something like a bare block or something for DUMB cheap to cut the overall cost by buying part by part) with ur spending...you can pull an H off dumb cheap, At B series prices if ur doing the work urself.

 

Just to build on that...


If someone bought my Bare Block + Bare Head...I can direct you to where you can get Type S Pistons/Rods/Crank right now for 275. Type S Camshafts for $200 with caps. 50 on injectors...




You're done. Now go forth with ECU and Harness and lay down 180+ at the wheel...*Lightning crackles* AT A B SERIES PRICE!!