Car - 90 crx si

I had a lot of brake pedal travel and after being stopped with the brakes still on, the pedal would go to the floor.

I swapped the MC out for a reman 90 civic ex 15/16" MC and installed Goodridge SS brake lines all the way around. Pads and Rotors are all relatively new. I bled the lines 3 times. With the car off two pumps of the brake pedal stiffens it right up. Turn the car on and the pedal sinks way down. The pedal still travels way down when braking but doesn't go to the floor.

I was hoping the new MC and SS brake lines would improve pedal travel. Is there something else i'm missing?

 

I would rebleed them. SS brake lines aren't going to help your pedal travel. If you get a Integra booster it will reduce your pedal travel.

 

also try adjusting the rear brakes. that is one of the major things that determines pedal travel

 

youve got a leak somewhere. i wouldnt rule out that remanned MC. especially if youre not losing any fluid in your reservoir.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slomo_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also try adjusting the rear brakes. that is one of the major things that determines pedal travel</TD></TR></TABLE>

adjust what?

 

You probably need the DA BB too.
and might want to bench bleed the MC

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXb18Turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You probably need the DA BB too.
and might want to bench bleed the MC</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would he need the DA BB???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why would he need the DA BB???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agree...he has Civic MC that isn't going to bolt to the DA booster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luciffer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is an automatic adjuster with a star wheel on. turn the star wheel so it pushes that shoes farther out. this can also be accopmlished with by using the e-brake, if it is funtional. also if you never back up, the brakes will not adjust themselves.

 

its a 90 CRX Si, he has disc brakes in the back.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a 90 CRX Si, he has disc brakes in the back.....

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, that's what i was thinking.

So i guess the only valid point made here is to rebleed the brakes?

 

Found this on the net awhile back and saved it.. enjoy.


1. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times. Then press it hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, a brake line, wheel cylinder or master cylinder is faulty.

2. Start the engine with the pedal pressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the booster is working. if the pedal height doesn't vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.

3. Press the brake pedal with the engine running. Then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary for 30 seconds the booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.

4. With the engine off press the pedal several times with normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If pedal height does not vary, check booster check valve. The check valve is the thing in the big vacuum line going to the booster, which is below the master cylinder in the engine compartment

 

I had this procedure from the manual. Everything is fine according to the procedure except that when i start the engine the pedal sinks more then slightly. It goes about half way down before it gets firm.

 

sounds def like a master cyl to me. Usually after prolonged pressure the pedal goes to the floor. Thats the cylinder failing. Youll either be leaking a little bit of fluid at the master cylinder or at your wheel cylinders.

 

the pedal doesn't go to the floor anymore after replacing the master cylcinder.

Ther eis just a lot of travel in the pedal before the brakes are being applied.

 

maybe you need to adjust the brake pedal where it contacts the booster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luciffer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the pedal doesn't go to the floor anymore after replacing the master cylcinder.

Ther eis just a lot of travel in the pedal before the brakes are being applied.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your story is changing.

if your pedal is JUST long, then you need to rebleed the brakes. did you bench bleed the master cylinder before putting it on?

 

story isn't changing read the whole thing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luciffer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The pedal still travels way down when braking but doesn't go to the floor.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

With the new 15/16 MC and SS Lines the pedal no longer goes to the floor. When the engine is off the pedal is very stiff after 1 and a half pumps. Turn the engine on and the pedal sinks about halfway down, but will brake without going to the floor.

I did not bench bleed the master cylinder before installing. I installed it, then filled the resevoir and bled in the order according to the manual until there was no air coming out of each line and then i went around and bled twice more for good measure.

 

bench bleed the master cylinder. its required.

the air trapped in the master cylinder is not going to come out the calipers.

 

i'll try it and then post back.

my thought at the time was only need to bench bleed the mc if you are just replacing the mc, but since i replaced all the lines and all the fluid was out of the lines, I could just bleed the whole system until no air bubbles were coming out of the bleeder screws.

thanks tyson