VTEC problem - REWARD !!!!
Ok. I am going to post this is a coupla forums. Here the problem.
1996 Integra GSR
Can't really notice vtec lately, so decide to investigate this weekend
Put 12V to selenoid. clicks fine.
Getting 12 volts from the Vtec pressure switch, so assume thats ok.
Expect vtec to kick in around 4800 to 5200. Don't really hear or feel a change in that range. So I direct wire the selenoid valve to a switch. Run engine up to 5000
and hit switch. Deifnately hear the pitch change going onto the vtec lobes.
The only thing I found a little strange is I have the 12 volts going to the selenoid
( Previous to the direct wire switch setup) but it does not seem to have enough amps to click on the switch when I get to 5K. Tried this several times with a buddy and we can't hear it click. So here I am 4 days away from a race and I think ok, I just hot wire this sucker. Works great the first time through the 5-6-7-8 K range
On the second run up the engine check light comes on and 6.5K is all she will do.
So, I try this again without the connection going back to the ECM/pressure switch.
Same deal. The code is 22 from the ECM. Well, now I know the vtec has not been working lately which sorta means I have been racing a SSC car in SSB class. So if I can get this solved by this coming weekend I stand a chance of finishing well at Road Atlanta. I am totally stumped. Reward of at least $25 to anyone who knows how to solve this issue, and changing everything doesn't count.
Dave Skultety - SSC car in SSB class.
1996 Integra GSR
Can't really notice vtec lately, so decide to investigate this weekend
Put 12V to selenoid. clicks fine.
Getting 12 volts from the Vtec pressure switch, so assume thats ok.
Expect vtec to kick in around 4800 to 5200. Don't really hear or feel a change in that range. So I direct wire the selenoid valve to a switch. Run engine up to 5000
and hit switch. Deifnately hear the pitch change going onto the vtec lobes.
The only thing I found a little strange is I have the 12 volts going to the selenoid
( Previous to the direct wire switch setup) but it does not seem to have enough amps to click on the switch when I get to 5K. Tried this several times with a buddy and we can't hear it click. So here I am 4 days away from a race and I think ok, I just hot wire this sucker. Works great the first time through the 5-6-7-8 K range
On the second run up the engine check light comes on and 6.5K is all she will do.
So, I try this again without the connection going back to the ECM/pressure switch.
Same deal. The code is 22 from the ECM. Well, now I know the vtec has not been working lately which sorta means I have been racing a SSC car in SSB class. So if I can get this solved by this coming weekend I stand a chance of finishing well at Road Atlanta. I am totally stumped. Reward of at least $25 to anyone who knows how to solve this issue, and changing everything doesn't count.
Dave Skultety - SSC car in SSB class.
O O i can help! i went through EVERY DAMN THING to get my vtec working. ok, this is ripped directly from my helms. (same troubleshooting procedure for all vtec im pretty sure. they all have the same silenoid/connections)
Reset your ECU. (pull battery pos cable/fuse)you might want to hook the solenoid straight up not going through a switch like it is now.
turn ignition off.Disconnect the 2P pressure switch from the solenoid. test for conitnuity between each plug. if there is NO continuity the wire is grouding out somwhere.
turn the ignition to II check for voltage between the same pins.
if no, its grounding out somwhere.
turn ignition off.
take off the vtec 1P connector. check for continuity between the 1pin connector and the neg. batery post. there should be 14-30 ohms.
if its none of those its oil pressure/oil related.
good luck let me know.
[Modified by KAMiN, 4:07 PM 3/24/2002]
Reset your ECU. (pull battery pos cable/fuse)you might want to hook the solenoid straight up not going through a switch like it is now.
turn ignition off.Disconnect the 2P pressure switch from the solenoid. test for conitnuity between each plug. if there is NO continuity the wire is grouding out somwhere.
turn the ignition to II check for voltage between the same pins.
if no, its grounding out somwhere.
turn ignition off.
take off the vtec 1P connector. check for continuity between the 1pin connector and the neg. batery post. there should be 14-30 ohms.
if its none of those its oil pressure/oil related.
good luck let me know.

[Modified by KAMiN, 4:07 PM 3/24/2002]
I got your email Dave. All I was going to suggest was that it was either a bare wire grounding somewhere or it's oil pressure related, but I just got beat to that (above post).
Otherwise I'm no help.
Shultz? Youre quite the pro when it comes to the things that can fail on an Integra. Any suggestions?
Otherwise I'm no help.
Shultz? Youre quite the pro when it comes to the things that can fail on an Integra. Any suggestions?
I've also got code 22 on my ITR and the CEL engages daily at this point. VTEC Solenoid checked out fine and oil level is full. It's been doing this intermittenly for months and now it's daily. The car is out of warranty, but the dealer is agreeing to look at and is 99% sure Acura will cover under warranty since it was in on two prior occasions for the same problem.
My car goes in next tuesday. I'll post the dealer's findings when I hear back from them.
My car goes in next tuesday. I'll post the dealer's findings when I hear back from them.
Trending Topics
OK. This is what I am going to try next.
1. Check to see if screen is clogged
2. Bypass ( jumper) the vtec oil pressure sensor switch
3. If 2 works, I will get a oil pressure gauge and see what pressures are really there. Someone mentioned low oil pressure from a bad pump, dented oil pan, etc. can be just low enough to prevent vtec but oherwise runs fine and no codes.
4. FWIW checked the price on the pressure switch - 62.50 - Acura price. Same part on a 85 chevy is 7.34
5. Gotta figure out if vtec ONLY kick if car is in motion, AND/OR if throttle is pushed past a certain point. A few archives mention this, but I see no proof of this.
6. Anyone near Marietta Ga. that has a GSR care to come over and do some comparing of voltage ouputs, etc. There would be some reward plus a crew pass to Road Atlanta this coming weekend.
7. I really only want to drive this thing. My head hurts from beating it against the wall trying to figure this out.
8. If I can solve this and I really haven't had vtec for the past several months, the boys at Road Atlanta better look out cause I'll be in woopass mode.
1. Check to see if screen is clogged
2. Bypass ( jumper) the vtec oil pressure sensor switch
3. If 2 works, I will get a oil pressure gauge and see what pressures are really there. Someone mentioned low oil pressure from a bad pump, dented oil pan, etc. can be just low enough to prevent vtec but oherwise runs fine and no codes.
4. FWIW checked the price on the pressure switch - 62.50 - Acura price. Same part on a 85 chevy is 7.34
5. Gotta figure out if vtec ONLY kick if car is in motion, AND/OR if throttle is pushed past a certain point. A few archives mention this, but I see no proof of this.
6. Anyone near Marietta Ga. that has a GSR care to come over and do some comparing of voltage ouputs, etc. There would be some reward plus a crew pass to Road Atlanta this coming weekend.
7. I really only want to drive this thing. My head hurts from beating it against the wall trying to figure this out.
8. If I can solve this and I really haven't had vtec for the past several months, the boys at Road Atlanta better look out cause I'll be in woopass mode.
The saga continues. Jumpered out the vtec oil presssure switch and now I can switch it into vtec without getting a cel. So I pick up an oil pressure gauge. Under 7 lbs with no vtec, check, over 60 ( reading 75 ) with vtec on, so oil pressure is not the problem. Go back over diagnostics. Find no 12 volts from A8 pin on ECU which is the vtec selenoid wire. It should have 12v above 5k rpm. So I don't know ALL of the conditions for the A8 pin to have volts. Verified engine coolant temp sensor works fine. Bottom line, can't quite figure it out. May have a bad ECU. Direct switch to vtec with the pressure switch jumpered out will work for now. Now we will see if the driver can handle all this extra high rpm power
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