My setup:

GC.....500F/600R
Koni Yellow.....full soft front, full firm rear
ASR 24mm rear sway + sub brace
Azenis

I still have understeer while we road around VIR. I was getting some (just some, turn 4) wheel hop too but found my engine mounts to be shot and new poly going in soon.

I was thinking of putting an EX front sway on the front vs the stock SI that is in place. I know some are all for illiminating the front sway all together.

Thoughts on the EX? Eventually higher spring rates and Koni Race but this was only our first "real" event.

Link for the heck of it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXb1CFdkxm4
Car is mine but is for both me and my brother to drive. Buddy of mine also ran the car at this event because his was down at the time.

Thanks.

 

I was quite happy with the 22mm ex front and 22mm comptech rear. That beastly 26mm si front you have is the devil...

If you use the ex front, you might have to go with ex front lcas as well. You might be able to keep your si lcas and use the gsr/itr front sway endlinks.

 

What are your alignment settings?

 

Gotcha. The funny thing is I was getting a lot of feedback warning of oversteer......yeah, not the case. I didn't think about the lca's......assumed more of a straight swap.

I thought about a higher rear spring rate but that will just kill my Konis. Plus then I'm just over achieving in one area to treat another.

 

I don't know, car hasn't been aligned in a long time to be honest. No bad wear prior to the track besides camber due to the lack of a camber kit.

I don't know if I should get a kit or just see how close they can get it first.

 

Ends of the sway bar are turned 90deg which is why the endlinks would change.

If you are curious as to how much the front sway is impacting you, disconnect the front endlinks, tape them to the bar to keep them from swinging around and then go for a spirited drive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kommon_sense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you are curious as to how much the front sway is impacting you, disconnect the front endlinks, tape them to the bar to keep them from swinging around and then go for a spirited drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Id disconnect them like stated above, but wouldn't push it to hard on the street.

 

Parking lot...

There's a new road close to me anyway. For some reason its two lanes and they paved for six.....thinking ahead I guess.

*I'm not one to see what I can do on a street. Adjust sure, push, no.

 

Just to be sure:

Have you had an alignment done after installing the listed suspension components?

 

In the video, the car's handling doesn't seem all that bad considering the changes you have made.

You might want to consider tricking the alignment a tiny bit if you absolutely know what you are doing. In other words, zero total toe in the rear, and maybe a teensy bit of total toe out in the nose to get it turning faster. The trouble with doing this with a basically light suspension like yours is that it could make for an uncomfortable unsteadiness when going into threshold braking from high speeds.

But it doesn't look all that bad considering the little bit you've done to it.

I'm afraid the real answer to controlling the tendency to understeer has more to do with trail braking and judicious throttle inputs.

Trouble is, if you're on somebody's behind and assuming he's going to point you in the corner at the apex, and he doesn't...it could make for interesting times.

:-)

 

No need to swap LCA's to put the EX front bar on the car. Just use a DC2 GSR/ITR style front endlink and install it upside down.

It really bothers me when people blindly assume the push is caused by the front bar. There are a ton of factors that play into the whole understeer/understeer equation, the bar actually being the least of them. Furthermore, most of the people that suggest disconnecting the front bar don't fully understand how swaybars work or why they may actually increase front grip and overall grip, even if understeer also increases.

At any rate, no camber kits on the car would lead me to guess that you've got maybe -1.5* of camber up front and -3* of camber out back. You've probably also got a fair amount of rear toe in as well. This will spell understeer, and if I'm right, disconnecting the front bar, while it may increase rotation, will reduce overall grip. I'd suggest getting your rear toe closer to zero and dialing out rear camber. I'd start with a rear camber setting 1 degree less then your front camber setting.

 

Agreeing with poster above not to disconnect or otherwise change front sway just yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
At any rate, no camber kits on the car would lead me to guess that you've got maybe -1.5* of camber up front and -3* of camber out back. You've probably also got a fair amount of rear toe in as well. This will spell understeer, and if I'm right, disconnecting the front bar, while it may increase rotation, will reduce overall grip. I'd suggest getting your rear toe closer to zero and dialing out rear camber. I'd start with a rear camber setting 1 degree less then your front camber setting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

^ +1

alignment will make a huge difference.

Also not taking the time to laod up the suspension correctly can make for understeer. I have the same spring rates as you, so I know how much the car leans over before actually "cornering." In my experience turning with proper technique makes practically any car understeer less. Not saying you're doing it wrong, just putting it out there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tthomass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
GC.....500F/600R
Koni Yellow.....full soft front, full firm rear
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wouldn't that make you way underdamped up front? Koni yellows can only handle about 500lbs springs at the most.

 

You might want to check your tire pressure to make sure its not getting too high!! This last weekend I ran 32 front 30 rear and my car was very neutral. Also, you might want to stiffen up the front shocks a little to get the car to rotate more!! I know when I stiffen up the front the rear gets slide happy!!

 

the push is probably from the car being on track with 3 drivers on street tires.

 

get some real shocks and spring rates

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No need to swap LCA's to put the EX front bar on the car. Just use a DC2 GSR/ITR style front endlink and install it upside down.

It really bothers me when people blindly assume the push is caused by the front bar. There are a ton of factors that play into the whole understeer/understeer equation, the bar actually being the least of them. Furthermore, most of the people that suggest disconnecting the front bar don't fully understand how swaybars work or why they may actually increase front grip and overall grip, even if understeer also increases.

At any rate, no camber kits on the car would lead me to guess that you've got maybe -1.5* of camber up front and -3* of camber out back. You've probably also got a fair amount of rear toe in as well. This will spell understeer, and if I'm right, disconnecting the front bar, while it may increase rotation, will reduce overall grip. I'd suggest getting your rear toe closer to zero and dialing out rear camber. I'd start with a rear camber setting 1 degree less then your front camber setting.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Bang on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some real shocks and spring rates</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can't be serious?

 

You can't be serious?

Yes, I am.

You've hated before so I'm cool with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pmachan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You can't be serious?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Except that he already expressed a wish to hold onto the Koni, and except that it seems pretty clear that the car's a driver, I think that most of your posters would've said the same. :-)

 

"get some real shocks and spring rates "

Can you elaborate that? What is a "real shocks and spring rates". If your talking about Moton style shocks, they are way too expensive....unless he does wheel to wheel road racing with a good budget. Bang for the buck are the Konis! Koni Race would be a good upgrade. As for the spring rates, what he has is good. Obviously, he can go with the 1000 rr and 600 frt (with no sway bars) but, I think he needs to drive it in the street too?

Exactly: check alignment, camber, tire pressure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get some real shocks and spring rates</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that there is a lot of different things that he can do besides changes his shocks!! Driving style, swaybar setup, tire pressure, shock settings, switching the springs f/r. May I ask why you don't like koni's? And for the price, what would you go with??

 

try more (-) camber in the front. do you have camber plates?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You can't be serious?

Yes, I am.

You've hated before so I'm cool with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hated? Hated who, you?
I don't know what you are talking about.

Anyway, your advice isn't so great, but hey, maybe you didn't read much of the thread? He hasn't had an alignment in a long time, no camber adjustment, etc. They might be the most sensible first places to look before buying high dollar shocks and stiffer springs..