Talking about the 1" SFI 45.1 stuff.. Any reason not to buy the Summit brand $14.95 per 3 ft section stuff instead of the Kirkey or Simpson $25 stuff?

About the only difference I can figure out from the descriptions is that the others have adhesive backing and the Summit brand uses velcro. not that either REALLY matters since it'll all be secured with zip ties.

 

Make sure to use the thick zip ties... the thin ones will tear the padding

I used the SFI stuff, bought it from Pegasus, FWIW.

 

As long as it meets the same SFI, no problem!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CagedRuss &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As long as it meets the same SFI, no problem!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

The (good)padding that Summit sells is SFI 45.1 rated. That's what I'm not using on the halo of the CRX and I'm very happy with it. I ordered it from Summit as well.

 

You might want to look at Speedway Motors. They do not give a safety rating in the description, but a phone call could determine that. They have the best price I have seen.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/...t.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure to use the thick zip ties... the thin ones will tear the padding

I used the SFI stuff, bought it from Pegasus, FWIW.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thick zip ties? as in thicker than your standard ones?

thanks for the info guys.. I'll check those few other places before I place my order, just for pricing's sake if nothing else..

 

hey i have a question.

i don't have any padding on my roll bar because i think thats its pretty hard to hit your head or any body part on the bar in my car.

i don't really have a good picture of it but im a shorter guy so my seat sets far up.

and non of my passengers set up against the bar either


here is a pic not the best but you can kinda get the idea.


would you guys suggest still adding some padding and if you would were?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

would you guys suggest still adding some padding and if you would were?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no reason to believe that your head could make contact with that main hoop or cross brace in an accident. However, for the money it would cost to pad that small area I would still do it if it was my brain at risk. I would pad the main hoop behind your seat to where it comes down the b-pillar and also the upper section of the cross brace.

 

alright thanks

 

Do you have rear braces on your rollbar? Maybe it's the angle, but I can't see them. Got any more pics?

It's weird how I get giddy over safety stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Another Drew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's weird how I get giddy over safety stuff.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hopefully you have a seat-back brace on the driver's side...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hopefully you have a seat-back brace on the driver's side...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahaha....good eye. The car is not ready yet

 

We are using the Summit (JAZ) brand and it is just fine in both the 1" and 3/4" thicknesses. You will NOT be removing it anytime soon so the mounting adhesive is not important. I did use tie-wraps as needed in several places just to insure a good bond.
I also found it to be very easy to cut with a razor saw or even a fine tooth hacksaw blade. You will get clean cuts and little waste.

 

holly **** i just noticed that right now. hahaha it fallows the diagnol main hoop brace almost perfectly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We are using the Summit (JAZ) brand and it is just fine in both the 1" and 3/4" thicknesses. You will NOT be removing it anytime soon so the mounting adhesive is not important. I did use tie-wraps as needed in several places just to insure a good bond.
I also found it to be very easy to cut with a razor saw or even a fine tooth hacksaw blade. You will get clean cuts and little waste. </TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly the kind of info i was looking for.. thank you!

 

Mark, you get a cage in 55 yet? Pics?

 

yeah.. it's almost finished.. I'll post pics once I get around to painting it and stuff..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Another Drew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

who did your rollbar?

 

James Evans did the rollbar. The main hoop is so close to body, there aren't many spots where the gap is more than paper thin.

The awful job of painting was done by me I can't believe the overspray floated all over onto the outside of the car. All the interior pieces had to be trimmed around the rollbar to get the trim back in the car.
The interior roof panel is in two pieces, both pieces butted up against the top of the main hoop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Another Drew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">James Evans did the rollbar. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah , makes sense.

looks like his design work.

 

You can also try http://www.longacreracing.com