SHOCK ADJUSTMENT
just wondering the guys iwth adjustable shocks settings are at?
i use tokico adj.
i was thinking using 5 in front and 4 in the rear... for my next autox event...
what are your guys settings and why?
thx
i use tokico adj.
i was thinking using 5 in front and 4 in the rear... for my next autox event...
what are your guys settings and why?
thx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietnameeh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think i need a classying cause i just put these shocks on..i know adj. shock...mite put me in street mod>?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Shocks won't bump you out of your class.
Sorry, I didn't even remember to answer your question:
In my experience with Tokico Illuminas, they aren't nearly stiff enough for the adjustments to matter. What are your spring rates? I'd just make sure that the rear shocks are stiffer than the front shocks, regardless of the settings that you use.
Shocks won't bump you out of your class.
Sorry, I didn't even remember to answer your question:
In my experience with Tokico Illuminas, they aren't nearly stiff enough for the adjustments to matter. What are your spring rates? I'd just make sure that the rear shocks are stiffer than the front shocks, regardless of the settings that you use.
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Your Tokico shocks adjust both compression and rebound adjustment at the same time. As such they are of less use as a tuning tool then if you had separate adjustments or if you had rebound only adjustment. Shocks are an important tuning tool but adjustments to your Tokicos will not dramatically change the handling of the car.
You probably want to adjust them as stiff as possible or until you feel the car skipping or pavement irregularities. Stiffer rear than front will slightly improve turn in but you can probably use tire pressure differences front to rear to a greater extent.
There is no one ideal setup for your shocks. It will vary depending on surface, temperature and course. But, if I were you I would set them and forget them. Concentrate more on driver and course, less on car. You will improve your times best with that approach. Your shock adjustments probably could not effect your times by more that 0.2 at the absolute most.
regards,
alan
You probably want to adjust them as stiff as possible or until you feel the car skipping or pavement irregularities. Stiffer rear than front will slightly improve turn in but you can probably use tire pressure differences front to rear to a greater extent.
There is no one ideal setup for your shocks. It will vary depending on surface, temperature and course. But, if I were you I would set them and forget them. Concentrate more on driver and course, less on car. You will improve your times best with that approach. Your shock adjustments probably could not effect your times by more that 0.2 at the absolute most.
regards,
alan
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your Tokico shocks adjust both compression and rebound adjustment at the same time. As such they are of less use as a tuning tool then if you had separate adjustments or if you had rebound only adjustment. Shocks are an important tuning tool but adjustments to your Tokicos will not dramatically change the handling of the car.
You probably want to adjust them as stiff as possible or until you feel the car skipping or pavement irregularities. Stiffer rear than front will slightly improve turn in but you can probably use tire pressure differences front to rear to a greater extent.
There is no one ideal setup for your shocks. It will vary depending on surface, temperature and course. But, if I were you I would set them and forget them. Concentrate more on driver and course, less on car. You will improve your times best with that approach. Your shock adjustments probably could not effect your times by more that 0.2 at the absolute most.
regards,
alan</TD></TR></TABLE>
The shock dyno for the illuminas showed that they only adjust rebound.
You probably want to adjust them as stiff as possible or until you feel the car skipping or pavement irregularities. Stiffer rear than front will slightly improve turn in but you can probably use tire pressure differences front to rear to a greater extent.
There is no one ideal setup for your shocks. It will vary depending on surface, temperature and course. But, if I were you I would set them and forget them. Concentrate more on driver and course, less on car. You will improve your times best with that approach. Your shock adjustments probably could not effect your times by more that 0.2 at the absolute most.
regards,
alan</TD></TR></TABLE>
The shock dyno for the illuminas showed that they only adjust rebound.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK4civichatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The shock dyno for the illuminas showed that they only adjust rebound.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Generally it is understood that the Illumina changes rebound and compression at the same time. The dyno test that I ran and have posted have that Civic front unit changing only the rebound (which I submit is better than both simultaneously) but I think it should be considered a single or rare application anamole rather than a representative sample.
Until proven otherwise per application, I think the assumptions should follow their marketing that says it changes both as a general rule. This Mustang front and rear test we did shows the Illumina changing rebound and bump simultaneously http://www.koni-na.com/present....html .
Generally it is understood that the Illumina changes rebound and compression at the same time. The dyno test that I ran and have posted have that Civic front unit changing only the rebound (which I submit is better than both simultaneously) but I think it should be considered a single or rare application anamole rather than a representative sample.
Until proven otherwise per application, I think the assumptions should follow their marketing that says it changes both as a general rule. This Mustang front and rear test we did shows the Illumina changing rebound and bump simultaneously http://www.koni-na.com/present....html .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK4civichatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So with that in mind should one make adjustments to feel, or take factors such as spring rates into consideration?</TD></TR></TABLE>
One should always make adjustments to the "feel" or better your preference for the car. People, especially around here, make way to much emphasis on "what spring rate does this match?" as if the spring rates were a seperate consideration to the entire conglomeration of all parts moving down the road that make a car being used. Since we drive cars made of many parts with people in them and we don't just drive a set of spring rates, it is your own preference for how your car responds that should drive your adjustment.
What you might find is that a stiffly sprung car that is generally going to need an increased level of rebound damping but simultaneously gets an additional dose of compression damping to boot, the combination of stiffer impact and ride quality of the higher rate springs and the additional bump damping became simply too much and made the car unpleasant. This is much less noticable on a stock or softly sprung car when the spring rate is not adding that much to the equation so some increase in bump stiffness does not push the car over the top. A friend dropped his Integra engined '85 CRX Si off with me one entire winter for storage and some body work so his car would not have to endure another New Hampshire winter. It had very aggressive aftermarket torsion bars and rear spring with a set of Illuminas. He told to drive and enjoy the car all I wanted. With the spring and torsion upgrade, at the lower settings the car was underdamped and bounced around but the impact ride quality was livable. Once I turne the rebound up for better body control, the added bump put the ride quality over the top and very unpleasant. By tying the two together and putting them with higher rates, to make one good then the other one made the car unpleasant. In the end, I parked the car for the winter because I could not find a point of good damping and livable street ride for our roads.
Back on topic, adjust your dampers so it makes your car the way you like it the best for how you use it.
One should always make adjustments to the "feel" or better your preference for the car. People, especially around here, make way to much emphasis on "what spring rate does this match?" as if the spring rates were a seperate consideration to the entire conglomeration of all parts moving down the road that make a car being used. Since we drive cars made of many parts with people in them and we don't just drive a set of spring rates, it is your own preference for how your car responds that should drive your adjustment.
What you might find is that a stiffly sprung car that is generally going to need an increased level of rebound damping but simultaneously gets an additional dose of compression damping to boot, the combination of stiffer impact and ride quality of the higher rate springs and the additional bump damping became simply too much and made the car unpleasant. This is much less noticable on a stock or softly sprung car when the spring rate is not adding that much to the equation so some increase in bump stiffness does not push the car over the top. A friend dropped his Integra engined '85 CRX Si off with me one entire winter for storage and some body work so his car would not have to endure another New Hampshire winter. It had very aggressive aftermarket torsion bars and rear spring with a set of Illuminas. He told to drive and enjoy the car all I wanted. With the spring and torsion upgrade, at the lower settings the car was underdamped and bounced around but the impact ride quality was livable. Once I turne the rebound up for better body control, the added bump put the ride quality over the top and very unpleasant. By tying the two together and putting them with higher rates, to make one good then the other one made the car unpleasant. In the end, I parked the car for the winter because I could not find a point of good damping and livable street ride for our roads.
Back on topic, adjust your dampers so it makes your car the way you like it the best for how you use it.
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