Check out Fred Meyers for Dry Ice.

Try to get a Styrofoam Box like when you get the meat.

Put the Dry Ice in the Box and coat the bearings/bushings in engine oil to stop condensation and in the box to freeze, place the suspension by a space heater.

Then Press

 

Back from the dead because I finally took this box of busings off my shelf and started putting them in.

I'm finding the same problem, maybe this isn't an issue anymore? My set is circa 2008 or so.

Stock:



Hardrace:

 

so uh, 15 years later, my HardRace bushings are fairly shot, especially the front LCA shock fork bushing, which basically holds the whole weight of the front of the car. Those bushings are deformed pretty bad. But I'll be replacing them again in the future with another set of HardRace. I'd say 15 years ain't bad for rubber bushings.

 

Rear lower arms are just too cheap to spend time on $36/each at this time.

Mostly unrelated but I did ES poly on my front LCAs 10+ years ago and they are still in good condition.

 

 

Just realizing there's been a bug on the mobile site where you upload a pic and it deletes the text from your post. So that last one was without any explanation.

So I've always had trouble finding a home shop-sized (aka Harbor Freight 30 ton) press that can get the front LCA bushings out. My process is this:
- Hole saw & corded drill to remove the rubber core of the original bushings. Apply grease (NLGI4, axle, CV, or similar consistency) to the bushing liberally as you work through it so the hole saw doesn't hang/burn up.
- Air hammer out the metal sleeve.
- Brake cylinder hone to smooth out the bores to make install of the replacements easier.

A couple of years back I gave my press away to a buddy in town. It was taking up precious space in my garage, had already recouped its cost, and I retained usage rights. He was out of town that weekend, so I used a ball joint press from Autozone to install the new bushings. Worked great. I'd still prefer a prss if I had access, but I spent maybe 15 minutes per arm on this job. No regerts.

With the Hardrace stuff, always paint after install. The sleeves are not coated or painted and will rust.

Just removed some parts with bushings installed a few posts up TEN years ago, and they are still in serviceable shape after ~80k of daily driving. Not bad for aftermarket Taiwanese rubber. The TA's are starting to crack and are out to get upgraded to spherical, the toe and camber links will continue on.







That being said, what @theYBLEGAL said about poly is 100% true. If you use the right grease (liberally) and check on them once in a while, poly will absolutely outlast the car and is also a great option.

 

Paint? Never heard of painting HR bushings. Mine have over 100K miles on them over 15 years, and have no rust at all, that I've seen. But I also don't live in the rust belt and don't get a lot of snow with salted roads in winter.

I used a 20-ton press on my front wheel bearings, which wouldn't budge a single millimeter with a slide hammer. Those let loose with a huge bang, but really weren't that hard to do with the press. Don't you think that would be enough for these bushings?

 

Yeah, the midwest is brutal. All my stuff is painted after torquing. The bolts, bushing sleeves, the exposed threads, balljoints, arms, everything gets a coat of black paint. And when I go around and do a bolt check, everything gets another coat of black paint. And every so often, more coats of black paint. Especially inside the wheel wheels/frame rail areas. Even my green Teins are slowly turning black as I address paint flake/nicks/wear/etc.

I usually burn the rubber so it's crispy then holesaw or press the inside out. I use a recip saw to cut a line in the sleeve then flathead and hammer to collapse the sleeve and get it to fall out. I've never had luck trying to press them, they are always sized in there so good.

 

Mine’s never seen snow or ice or road salt, it’s been a Florida or Cali car its entire life. Those toe and camber bushing pictured were from a really old, probably first gen Hardrace set though, totally likely they improved their later products. I didn’t spray those, but they got a little rusty after a couple of years and so I’ve sprayed the rest of my stuff after assembly since then.

it’s only the big front LCA bushings that I’ve ever had trouble pressing out. The rest have always been pretty straightforward. I think if you try applying grease with the hole saw you’ll find that using fire is just an added hazard and adds an extra step to the removal.

 

Seldom check these forums, and here I see a thread that I posted in from 2010. About to do the same thing on a different Integra. Not all HardRace this time. Replacing original bushings on a 1994 RS I've been driving 5-6 years.