hypercoils
Yes, that is what I use on the racecars. They are the best with Eibach being #2 in race springs. Hyperco makes the majority of springs for NASCAR, F1, IRL, CART, etc. They are a bit more expensive but a little bit better. Made in USA too. Most people have not heard of them as they have nmade very few street springs under their own name but make the house brand name springs for several car tuners.
CRX Lee
what kind of coil sleeves can be used with koni yellows and the hypercoils?
what kind of coil sleeves can be used with koni yellows and the hypercoils?
the only issue i have with them is the little notches for the wrench aren't evenly spaced enough... (there are times where i can't reach a notch, and can't use the wrench to get the perch any higher)... does anyone else with the koni hardware have this problem?
the GC look to have evenly spaced rectangular notches, whereas the konis have circular ones NOT evenly spaced. why would the do that?
thanks,
phil
Actually those sleeves (the red anodized ones) are available through any KONI dealer and not just Truechoice, although they sell a good number. I designed them myself in about '96 to make sure that there was a proper fitting sleeve that captures the circlip properly (one end is counterbored). At teh time, Ground Control had not done one and all other brands were really sloppy fits.
I made them to fit a 2.25 ID spring but with a little $2 delrin spacer they fit the more common 2.5 ID spring. This spacer also helps the spring perch spin more smoothly without the spring tail trying to grab it.
I have used them for years myself and sold many hundreds and have not heard the wrench/hole spacing comments before. I did not select the hole spacing, that was done by the company that we have build them for us. Honestly I have never used a wrench before either. Since the sleeve is a slip on and not set-screwed or glued in place (SCCA rules say they must not be attached and I actually had to prove it is post race tech once), if you put much turning force on the perch when there is any preload to the spring, you will just spin the whole sleeve around the shock and go nowhere. I simply jack the car up to let it droop, back off the set-screw that keeps the perch from turning them and reach in with one hand and hold the sleeve in position and reach in with the other hand and turn the perch. This has worked for me for years since with the high spring rates that we run we tend to run, we don't have that much preload at droop. If you have a decent grip, you can do it by hand.
Thanks for the comments, I'll take a look at the spacing and see if if there is anything we can do on future production runs.
[Modified by CRX Lee, 3:30 AM 2/4/2003]
I made them to fit a 2.25 ID spring but with a little $2 delrin spacer they fit the more common 2.5 ID spring. This spacer also helps the spring perch spin more smoothly without the spring tail trying to grab it.
I have used them for years myself and sold many hundreds and have not heard the wrench/hole spacing comments before. I did not select the hole spacing, that was done by the company that we have build them for us. Honestly I have never used a wrench before either. Since the sleeve is a slip on and not set-screwed or glued in place (SCCA rules say they must not be attached and I actually had to prove it is post race tech once), if you put much turning force on the perch when there is any preload to the spring, you will just spin the whole sleeve around the shock and go nowhere. I simply jack the car up to let it droop, back off the set-screw that keeps the perch from turning them and reach in with one hand and hold the sleeve in position and reach in with the other hand and turn the perch. This has worked for me for years since with the high spring rates that we run we tend to run, we don't have that much preload at droop. If you have a decent grip, you can do it by hand.
Thanks for the comments, I'll take a look at the spacing and see if if there is anything we can do on future production runs.
[Modified by CRX Lee, 3:30 AM 2/4/2003]
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