HELP HPDE car O2 sensor code - FIXED
HELP__________________________HPDE car is Over heating/O2 sensor code___________________________HELP
FIXED
after spending countless hours and with the help of you guys thanks.
I jumped fan temp fix I really think its either a relay or bad wiring
O2 sensor there was an open from engine wire harness to ECU
Oh yeah stop cussing on my thread STINKY CHEEZ (mod) or else I will edit and delete
sounds like some one has an anger issue
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_VZdQ92pQc
LINK to Tech area- just in case Stinky cheez lock the Thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...5#post40079715
HPDE Cars specs
1988 Honda CRX Si
D16a6
Once more again trying to get all the bugs worked out any help or insight would help. I am posting here also because I know you guys have torn down you cars and put them back together and this a very active area.
PROBLEM
1. Fan does not turn on so car over heats when idling.
Running water
Stock radiator
think of by passing and making a toggle switch.
2. O2 sensor code 1 - replaced it still get code and resetted the ECU and check grounds and connections.
TESTED
Fan - OK - jump with battery turned on
ECT - OK - heated up car and unplugged and tested for resistance, but the ohms jumped up and down is this normal.
Grounds - OK - but I am going to check again
Relay - hooked up battery to C and D and checked resistance on A and B side of Relay got some resistance to 0.00.
02 - OK - get volatage when warmed up and checked all connections.
Fuel Regualtor - OK - seems ok replace with another need to get a fuel press test gauge.
QUESTIONS
- I am fixing the O2 sensor and I realize the the O2 sensor wire is supposed to be white but mine is black is this normal and I am in the process of getting a ETM
I am in the process of checking all connections any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Need to upgrade to aluminum radiator oversized.
Thanks
Charles
562-219-1144
FIXED
after spending countless hours and with the help of you guys thanks.
I jumped fan temp fix I really think its either a relay or bad wiring
O2 sensor there was an open from engine wire harness to ECU
Oh yeah stop cussing on my thread STINKY CHEEZ (mod) or else I will edit and delete
sounds like some one has an anger issue

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_VZdQ92pQc
LINK to Tech area- just in case Stinky cheez lock the Thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...5#post40079715
HPDE Cars specs
1988 Honda CRX Si
D16a6
Once more again trying to get all the bugs worked out any help or insight would help. I am posting here also because I know you guys have torn down you cars and put them back together and this a very active area.
PROBLEM
1. Fan does not turn on so car over heats when idling.
Running water
Stock radiator
think of by passing and making a toggle switch.
2. O2 sensor code 1 - replaced it still get code and resetted the ECU and check grounds and connections.
TESTED
Fan - OK - jump with battery turned on
ECT - OK - heated up car and unplugged and tested for resistance, but the ohms jumped up and down is this normal.
Grounds - OK - but I am going to check again
Relay - hooked up battery to C and D and checked resistance on A and B side of Relay got some resistance to 0.00.
02 - OK - get volatage when warmed up and checked all connections.
Fuel Regualtor - OK - seems ok replace with another need to get a fuel press test gauge.
QUESTIONS
- I am fixing the O2 sensor and I realize the the O2 sensor wire is supposed to be white but mine is black is this normal and I am in the process of getting a ETM
I am in the process of checking all connections any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Need to upgrade to aluminum radiator oversized.
Thanks
Charles
562-219-1144
Last edited by civichb20; Sep 25, 2009 at 11:40 PM.
When you're on track, your fan isn't doing anything for cooling. Overheating would indicate too small of a radiator, stuck thermostat, plugged/leaking coolant lines, that kind of thing.
Unless you're overheating only while sitting in grid or something...
Unless you're overheating only while sitting in grid or something...
have you seen the fan turn on without jumping it? could be the fan switch. like stinkymonky said, might be a stuck thermostat. This might sound stupid but is the fan wired up right? head gasket problem? you could also have air in the system.
you dont need the fan at all on the track, you could even remove it if you wanted too.... have you checked you rad cap if its holding pressure? try a new rad cap perhaps
Trending Topics
As others have said.
Replace the thermostat, and radiator cap.
Replace the radiator if it's really old.
If that doesn't fix it, wait till it's start to overheat and then do a leak down test with the radiator cap removed. It may be a head gasket.
Replace the thermostat, and radiator cap.
Replace the radiator if it's really old.
If that doesn't fix it, wait till it's start to overheat and then do a leak down test with the radiator cap removed. It may be a head gasket.
Jump the two wires hooking up to the cooling fan switch with a piece of wire, it should come one if its jumped. If it doesn't than i would say the relay is bad.
I jumped the fan it turned on also tested the relay seem ok but I will replace to check.
Thanks everyone.
Thanks everyone.
it runs smooth the fan does not want to turn on normally but I do get some lite foaming in radiator cap area when open. I will do a test as soon I can get the fan to work properly.
well thats new information lol .......you dont need any new parts if its just overheating when idling thats normal
just fix the fan or put it on a switch
just fix the fan or put it on a switch
To add to that, have you tried jumpering the harness plug that connects to the fan switch? If the fan does not turn on then you have a wiring/electrical issue. If it *does* turn on, then you most likely have a bad fan switch or stuck thermostat.
Alright Charles, we're having a problem now. First, you keep editing your thread title to have those ridiculous lines. It's annoying the **** out of me, and accomplishing nothing. I'm changing it again, and if you change it back I'll lock the thread.
The other problem is that you're turning this into a generic fix-it thread. You should consult the Tech/Misc forum for that. The overheating I could've seen as related to RRAX, except that it turns out you were doing that while idling, and not moving (I think...). The O2 issue has nothing to do with RRAX, and really doesn't belong here.
The other problem is that you're turning this into a generic fix-it thread. You should consult the Tech/Misc forum for that. The overheating I could've seen as related to RRAX, except that it turns out you were doing that while idling, and not moving (I think...). The O2 issue has nothing to do with RRAX, and really doesn't belong here.
Alright Charles, we're having a problem now. First, you keep editing your thread title to have those ridiculous lines. It's annoying the **** out of me, and accomplishing nothing. I'm changing it again, and if you change it back I'll lock the thread.
The other problem is that you're turning this into a generic fix-it thread. You should consult the Tech/Misc forum for that. The overheating I could've seen as related to RRAX, except that it turns out you were doing that while idling, and not moving (I think...). The O2 issue has nothing to do with RRAX, and really doesn't belong here.
The other problem is that you're turning this into a generic fix-it thread. You should consult the Tech/Misc forum for that. The overheating I could've seen as related to RRAX, except that it turns out you were doing that while idling, and not moving (I think...). The O2 issue has nothing to do with RRAX, and really doesn't belong here.
I wont to it again and I posted here because you get the most help and I know some of the guys but I will move it if you want.





How do the wires on the o2 sensor look? check for continuity from the o2 plug to the ecu plug. Could be a bad o2 sensor. check for continuity first.