Does anyone here know the rule on this? I have a 97 EJ7 HX that I am considering a swap on. It will be a daily driver, but I hope to get to some events on the weekend. I was thinking of doing a B18b N/A setup, but wanna make sure before i do. If not can I do a B16 setup since it was an option?

 

Street Mod for you.

Street mod rules:
http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/index.shtml


[Modified by CivicSiRacer, 12:13 PM 11/12/2002]

 

Go ahead with your b18 plan as either swap will put you in the street modified class. HTH

-Joel

 

Street Mod is fun!

JOIN US!

You will be free prettymuch to do a lot more mods, until those are dont you will not be too competitive.

But look forward to -
Big brakes, ecu tuning, cams, valvetrain, I/H/E, race seats, cf or fiberglass panels, tower bars, LSD, flywheel, supa-wide wheels and R compounds..... much much more...

 

Join the club of old cars, with blown engines, that upgraded when they blew!


[Modified by mojoGSR92, 4:29 PM 11/12/2002]

 

Also be prepared to spend lots of MOOLA! Yeah you can do motor swaps but others in that class have also added: cams, springs, valves, pistons, turbos, superchargers, big brakes, lightweight wheels, DOT racing tires, LSD, changed the gearings, clutch, flywheel, expensive suspension, carbon fiber everything, lightweight racing seat, and on and on

 

Yep,
Once you move to SM, it becomes an obsession. SM2 = Sold My 2 children for tires.

 

I read through the rules and saw that you aren't required to keep the rear seats, how much else are you permitted to remove?

My hatch has no roof liner and I had planned on gutting the back half and then caging it.

 

im almost 100% sure that you can only remove the rear seat/carpet in sm but i might be wrong

but yes, sm is fun!

 

i took second place by less than .1 seconds every time in SM with my car on street tires.....the other dude had kumho victor racers.....if i had tires i would have owned his cobra....pisses me off!!


hybrids own

 

Most of the interior has to be intact.

• Must comply with section 3.6.6 (3.6.B? There is no 3.6.6) regarding fuel.
  Suspension components are unrestricted as long as they use the original attachment points. Brakes are unrestricted.
• Subframe connectors are allowed, but each connector must be attached individually without any lateral components attaching the two longitudinal frame rails. Subframe connectors may be bolted or welded
• The firewall, roof, doors, rear quarter panels, floor pan, trunk lid (if any) or rear hatch (if any) must remain stock. Holes may be drilled to allow attachment of body kits, etc. This specifically allows replacement hoods, fenders, wings, front & rear fascias, side skirts, and fender flares as per Section 14.
  Except as noted by these rules and the referenced rules, vehicles must be as originally delivered including all road going components such as lights, wipers, interior, heater, etc.
• Rear passenger seat(s) do(es) not need to be retained.
• Wings may only be attached to the rear deck/hatch area and may not extend more than six inches beyond the widest part of the bodywork on either side.
• 18.2. MINIMUM WEIGHTS
• Street Mod (SM)
• Up to 3.0L, naturally aspirated, OHC engines
• Up to 4.0L, naturally aspirated, pushrod engines
• FWD: 1800 pounds
• RWD: 2200 pounds
• AWD: 2400 pounds
• Up to 3.0L, forced induction, OHC engines
• Up to 4.0L, forced induction, pushrod engines
• FWD: 1900 pounds
• RWD: 2400 pounds
• AWD: 2600 pounds
• Up to 3.01 to 6.0L, naturally aspirated, OHC engines
• Up to 4.01 to 6.0L, naturally aspirated, pushrod engines
• Up to 1.5L, rotary engines, all
• FWD: 2000 pounds
• RWD: 2500 pounds
• AWD: 2700 pounds
• Street Mod 2 (SM2), two seat vehicles and underweight SM vehicles
• Up to 3.0L, naturally aspirated, OHC engines
• Up to 4.0L, naturally aspirated, pushrod engines
• FWD: 1500 pounds
• RWD: 1900 pounds
• AWD: 2100 pounds
• Up to 3.0L, forced induction, OHC engines
• Up to 4.0L, forced induction, pushrod engines
• FWD: 1600 pounds
• RWD: 2100 pounds
• AWD: 2300 pounds
• Up to 3.01 to 6.0L, naturally aspirated, OHC engines
• Up to 4.01 to 6.0L, naturally aspirated, pushrod engines
• Up to 1.5L, rotary engines, all
• FWD: 1700 pounds
• RWD: 2200 pounds
• AWD: 2400 pounds
• Street Mod 2 (SM2), over-displacement SM vehicles
• All types/displacements
• FWD: 2000 pounds
• RWD: 2500 pounds
• AWD: 2700 pounds

Remember this online verion might not reflect the currect rules, and the rule book should be consulted.


[Modified by CivicSiRacer, 8:05 AM 11/14/2002]

 

My daily driver/backup autox car is an 86 Civic Si w/D16A1 swap. When I autox, I take out the back seat (65 lbs). My advice is to keep in mind that you're building a street car with autocross capabilities, not the other way around. You're not building a Nationals car, are you?

You might want to sit down and schedule you're mods in phases, so you can get used to your cars behavior at certain points, and not always have something new every autocross. FWIW, more people have the B16 in SM and SM2.

My old engine is fairly weak, but for a light car and Azenis, I can usually place high at the local level.

 

thanks for the info guys, this really helps alot, I will progress in stages, and as mentioned above it will be a street car with autocross capabilities.

 

Steet Mod

most guys in my SM group have older civics and stuff... a few WRXs that are hard to catch, and one civic that consistantly kicks my ***, i got 4th over all this year,

b18 in SM

TORQUE OWNS!!!

 

Um, if I do a B18B swap, what tranny will work best in a autox and street situation b16, gsr or stock ls tranny?

 

SM or do what i did...


D-Mod!

 

b16 tranny gets my vote. cheap, best gearing for accelleration with NA motor setups, easily replaced, easily upgraded... gears, FD, etc.

 

i've got a GS-R tranny on my LS/VTEC, and it does great... 1st and 2nd are all about the same on any B-series, but 3rd 4th and 5th are where most of the difference is

 

okay, but what difference? Higher rpms in those gears? So far I heard that ls trannys, are good for boosting, since the gearing is taller, you're in boost longer. But for N/A B16 or GSR...will freeway rpms be high? sorry for noob type ?'s but I am finally giving serious thought to a swap and want to check all my facts before spending. I just want a good balanced engine that i can have fun with...thanks...