i have an autox evo school this sat and i need to flush/bleed my brake system and im wondering what is the added process in flushing the brake system? is it just regular flush until all the old fluid is out?

also im going to be using my current rotors with new brake pads, ebc green stuff. since new pads needs to be bedded in, what happens when i switch out the old with a new set a few months later? how about when i switch pads around lets say for street and autox pads, is it ok? is there things i need to consider do?

thanks

 

Pretty much any pad that is good for street is good for autox. You want an autox pad that has very high cold bite, most performance pads are terrible at this, and your lap times will suffer. I used to use Hawk HPS or stock for autox and liked both. One of the last things you need to worry about in an autox is brake temps. I have been to a couple where speeds got up to the top of third gear in a ITR (that is what, about 90 MPH?) on a couple of straights and the brakes still were just starting to get up to temp.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch

Yes, flush till new fluid is in.

EBC Green pads should be ok for autox, but nothing more. Dont expect them to last a long time.

 

Word, I use Panther + and I usually drag the brakes up to the line to get the little bit of heat they need in them to not be totally unpredictable. When they're dead cold it's easy to lock them up unexpectedly.

 

how about the rotor question? if i would to switch rotors do i need to do anything or switch it and go?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about the rotor question? if i would to switch rotors do i need to do anything or switch it and go?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont get it...

Why are you putting new rotors on? If you are swapping rotors, you just... take the old ones off and put new ones on...

 

since new pads are suppose to be bedded in with rotors, do i do anything special if i swap rotors that were bedded in with old ones?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since new pads are suppose to be bedded in with rotors, do i do anything special if i swap rotors that were bedded in with old ones?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just go through the bedding procedure again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since new pads are suppose to be bedded in with rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's kind of hard to bed pads by rubbing them on the ground real fast.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i do anything special if i swap rotors that were bedded in with old ones?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Technically, rotors should be seasoned prior to hardcore use, but I think that would come into play more on racetracks rather than auto-x'ing. When I was talking to Tim @ Porterfield, he says you should never bed pads on brand new rotors. As far as new rotors, put em on the car a week before with your street pads, and they'll be fine (of course, this doesn't help you for this weekend, but good information none the less). As for the new pads, bed them the night before, and that should wear the minute layer of residue from your other pads off. If you don't have far to go (home to the event) might as well leave the pads on, as long as you realize your braking distances will be slightly higher (now that I've said that, I realize that the pads you're using for auto-xing shouldn't be straight up racing pads, as they'll never see the temps needed to make them work properly, so ignore that last remark, as your street braking will probably not be effected that much). I went 30 miles back and forth to a track event on my Porterfield R4's with no problems (my braking distances were increased, slightly, due to the compound).

I would, if I were you, as was advised to me by members of this board, have a set of rotors that are your "event-only" rotors, that go with your performance pads, and just swap back to your street setup after the weekend. Seems to make things run (or brake) smoother, last longer.

Good Luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he says you should never bed pads on brand new rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>

I never had any problems doing this. Er, more problems than I usually have....

 

RJ,

I'm not sure if you shouldn't try to set the grain of the metal at the same time as bedding pads, or if it's something else (maybe something to do with the anti-rust cad plating that the rotors come with). I don't know, since the instructions for rotor seasoning that I've read seem to be somewhat similar to bedding pads, though not quite as aggressive.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Er, more problems than I usually have.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Er, same here. I seem to blow through rotors and pads at the same rate, whether I take the time to do a proper bedding/seasoning or not.