When i took my crx on track at the end of august i was having some braking issues after the front straight at summit. when i would get on them hard, it would pull hard right. it didnt appear to be a problem in any of the other brake zones. at the time my car was also overheating and coolant was overflowing the resevoir and getting all over everything, including the wheel well. i assumed that coolant was getting on the tire during the straight causing it to slip some under braking...however, i did notice my braided lines having blue fluid seep up through the lines. im using ATE super blue, obviously since it's blue...i was wondering if this would be a cause for concern and possible the cause for braking issues? it doesnt appear to be doing this on the passenger side, at least not nearly as bad. it's only doing this from the caliper side of the line, you can see in the background the regular color of the lines...

 

The blue line looks like it's going into your caliper, correct?

And the stainless steel braided line looks like just normal A/N line. Most stainless steel braided brakes have a clear plastic over the hose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The blue line looks like it's going into your caliper, correct?

And the stainless steel braided line looks like just normal A/N line. Most stainless steel braided brakes have a clear plastic over the hose.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, the line is going from the inner fender well and into the caliper, just like the rubber hose brake line, just braided steel.

it has clear plastic over the hose. the fluid is seeping in between the plastic and the steel. it had moisture along the outside of the hose where the fluid is, which is why it looks kind of cloudy in the pic

 

I wouldn't drive on it. If that's brake fluid, replace it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't drive on it. If that's brake fluid, replace it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

would this be the lines or like, the caliper siezing though?...well actually, i guess i know the caliper isnt siezed really, i changed out my xp8s after the track weekend and i moved the caliper out some...i guess i need to get some new lines then

 

brake lines, brake pads, brake rotors, brake master cylinder, brake calipers, brake fluid. I'd personally try and freshen these up every season, they are all consumables, some wear faster than others.

 

I had the same problem with 2 sets of these lines. (The ones that have the clear plastic coating). Dont remember the brand, but I switched to Earl's lines and no more problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem with 2 sets of these lines. (The ones that have the clear plastic coating). Dont remember the brand, but I switched to Earl's lines and no more problems.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I HAD Earl's until my axle slowly ground through the steel braids rupturing the lines. I have switched to Russels and am much happier with over all quality. They have the plastic coating on the outside, where my Earl's didn't.

I don't blame the rupture on Earl's, but there appears to be better quality with the russels. The Russles also has the "floating" mount brackets so that I can move the lines a little better and the Earl's brackets had limited movement like the stock ones.

OP, I wouldn't drive that car until you know for sure what is going on. I don't see how the blue could seep through the lines because there is a plastic tube insided the steel lines.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I HAD Earl's until my axle slowly ground through the steel braids rupturing the lines. I have switched to Russels and am much happier with over all quality. They have the plastic coating on the outside, where my Earl's didn't.

I don't blame the rupture on Earl's, but there appears to be better quality with the russels. The Russles also has the "floating" mount brackets so that I can move the lines a little better and the Earl's brackets had limited movement like the stock ones.

OP, I wouldn't drive that car until you know for sure what is going on. I don't see how the blue could seep through the lines because there is a plastic tube insided the steel lines. </TD></TR></TABLE>

from what i can tell it's coming from the eye that attatches to the caliper and seeping into it through there. i've been driving it a little bit and it doesn't appear to be getting worse. it seems that it was happening because of how hard you get on the brakes while on track. and i dont notice any brake bias at all under normal driving. even on track i didnt notice it in any of the other brake zones, only when i got on them good going into turn one.

edit - you can also see in the pic some how it's darker where it's attatched to the caliper and fades to lighter the further away you get.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from what i can tell it's coming from the eye that attatches to the caliper and seeping into it through there. i've been driving it a little bit and it doesn't appear to be getting worse. it seems that it was happening because of how hard you get on the brakes while on track. and i dont notice any brake bias at all under normal driving. even on track i didnt notice it in any of the other brake zones, only when i got on them good going into turn one.

edit - you can also see in the pic some how it's darker where it's attatched to the caliper and fades to lighter the further away you get.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't believe you're still driving the car before fixing this issue. Do you realize how disastrous a complete brake failure will be?

 

I agree, it is irresponsible for you to drive the car in that condition, your life and those traveing around you could be in danger.

 

Have someone keep pumping the brakes, and fine the leak.

As for the frozen caliper, check the slider, thats usualy what freezes up and causes issues. I've had two of mine freeze on my daily driver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't believe you're still driving the car before fixing this issue. Do you realize how disastrous a complete brake failure will be?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

like i said...1. i didnt know it was issue till now, hence me posting this. a ford mechanic was at the track with us and said it wasnt a problem 2. it hasnt been getting worse, so obviously it's not a huge issue, if it was constantly leaking and losing fluid then i would definitely not be driving it, but that's not the case. 3. even if the left caliper stopped working i'd still have my right one and the rears.

it's not like i'm driving every day several hundred miles. i drive to campus and to get groceries, maybe 10 miles a week at &lt;25 in an 1800 lbs car that the engine slows the car down fairly well....

all that's besides the point anyway, i dont plan on driving it now that i know it's an issue. that was the reason i posted this, to see if that was a problem or not. please dont talk to me like i'm retarded. it's not very pleasant


Modified by roppetty at 12:19 PM 9/24/2006

 

Dude, if one hose pops off you lose all 4 brakes. Bad news.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all that's besides the point anyway, i dont plan on driving it now that i know it's an issue. that was the reason i posted this, to see if that was a problem or not. please dont talk to me like i'm retarded. it's not very pleasant</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sorry, although you may not be retarded, you certainly are slow.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like i said...1. i didnt know it was issue till now, hence me posting this. a ford mechanic was at the track with us and said it wasnt a problem 2. it hasnt been getting worse, so obviously it's not a huge issue, if it was constantly leaking and losing fluid then i would definitely not be driving it, but that's not the case. 3. even if the left caliper stopped working i'd still have my right one and the rears.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. Most dealership "mechanics" are just parts changers, so be cautious when taking their advice.

2. Taking chances with the brake system will never lead to anything good.

3. If you spring a leak in the brake system, you'll lose all of your brakes. I don't understand how you think the master cylinder will hold fluid when there's a leak anywhere in the system.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's not like i'm driving every day several hundred miles. i drive to campus and to get groceries, maybe 10 miles a week at &lt;25 in an 1800 lbs car that the engine slows the car down fairly well....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't care how far you're driving. Only a complete idiot would drive that car anywhere until the problem is fixed.

I'm amazed at your stupidity. Every time you drove the car with a known problem, you were risking the safety of not only yourself, but everyone around you. Do you realize how selfish and stupid this is?

 

i realize it is pointless to keep arguing about this, so i'm done now. you have no bearing to call me slow, you dont know me. it's not like i was like hey fluid is leaking out of my lines, i wonder what will happen if i keep driving. it is still contained within the line. i didnt know this was a problem, fluid is not leaking, there is still the same amount of fluid in the resevoir as there was a month ago.

thank you 88 rex for letting me know you had the same issue and that the russell lines appear to solve it, i will order them now.

//end thread, i got what i needed to know, it's a shame none of my other posts give me the information i look for

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have no bearing to call me slow, you dont know me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

All we have to go on is how you carry yourself on the internet:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even if the left caliper stopped working i'd still have my right one and the rears.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It kinda speaks for itself, doesn't it?

Anyway, I'm glad to hear you're not endangering yourself and others by driving it on the street anymore.

 

First, if the fluid level hasn't dropped, then it'd be weird for it to be brake fluid that you're leaking. It's not like that spontaneously regenerates itself.

Second, if you lose one caliper, you lose all the other ones as well. That's essentially one big tube for all the calipers, so if you have a hole/rupture in one, ALL the fluid will be pushed out that hole, leaving none for any of the other calipers. That's just how it works.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First, if the fluid level hasn't dropped, then it'd be weird for it to be brake fluid that you're leaking. It's not like that spontaneously regenerates itself.

Second, if you lose one caliper, you lose all the other ones as well. That's essentially one big tube for all the calipers, so if you have a hole/rupture in one, ALL the fluid will be pushed out that hole, leaving none for any of the other calipers. That's just how it works.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know how hydraulics work...there seems to be confusion in what i was saying. i was asking if it was leaking and/or if it was bad to have the fluid outside the braided steel, but inside the clear plastic tubing surrounding the braiding. there is NO wetness around the outside of the brake line, it is bone dry.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't care how far you're driving. Only a complete idiot would drive that car anywhere until the problem is fixed.

I'm amazed at your stupidity. Every time you drove the car with a known problem, you were risking the safety of not only yourself, but everyone around you. Do you realize how selfish and stupid this is? </TD></TR></TABLE>

While i don't really care if you guys want to hash it out, but you do realize that the greater majority of people driving on the road next to you have cars with problems. Most likely they don't care or won't fix the car until something breaks either. Just thinking thats a tad harsh what you said, but to each there own. I'm guessing since he did a track day and didn't say anything about his break pedal going to the floor, usualy happens when you have a leak, that his breaks are essentialy fine, other then the small leak.

To the original poster, what side was your coolant going everywhere. I'm guessing to the passanger side, which still doesnt explain the car pulling that way.... course with it only doing at that one corner... high speed? Maybe you have to work on your setup some. Toe, and camber...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coneheadsracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
To the original poster, what side was your coolant going everywhere. I'm guessing to the passanger side, which still doesnt explain the car pulling that way.... course with it only doing at that one corner... high speed? Maybe you have to work on your setup some. Toe, and camber...</TD></TR></TABLE>

coolant was overflowing on the driver side. the wheel well was soaked, so i only assume it was getting on the tire as well. at the time i figured the driver side wheel was getting coolant on it and when i got on the brakes it could have caused that tire to have less traction, thus pulling to the other side.

what i'm thinking is happening now, judging from this thread, is that around the crimp on the brake line there is so much pressure when i get on it hard that some fluid is escaping between the outer plastic and the braided steel thus making the driver side caliper not clamp as tight and pulling to the other side.

does that make sense?

it could also be toe/camber i suppose. i did my own alignment using the string method and it doesnt really feel like it pulls any direction on the highway and the tread is worn evenly. camber i havnt messed with. should be negative from a 1-3 inch drop on the ground controls though. i was under the impression camber would only come into effect under cornering and you wanted negative camber so that the tire would roll onto more tread rather than along the sidewall as much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thank you 88 rex for letting me know you had the same issue and that the russell lines appear to solve it, i will order them now.

//end thread, i got what i needed to know, it's a shame none of my other posts give me the information i look for</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not so sure it is your brake lines though. Like I said, the fluid doesn't just weep out of the lines. It may be a loose bolt in the back of the caliper or the other end where it connects to the hardline.

I'd dry off all that coolant you have all over the place, jack the car up, put it on stands, and then have someone push the brakes while you watch. I never had any problems until they just blew on me going 104 MPH at the drag strip. Scared the crap out of me. Brake pedal hit the floor and I had just enough pressure to slow me down and pull off the track.

Needless to say, these guys are just looking out for your safety as well as theirs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know how hydraulics work...</TD></TR></TABLE>

K, then don't say things like:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. even if the left caliper stopped working i'd still have my right one and the rears.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whatever the case, do as 88 rex suggested. Whether it's "contained" in the plastic sleeve or not, brake fluid outside of the line is bad. If it is in fact leaking somewhere past the braided steel part, that means the line is bad and has a split in it somewhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roppetty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

coolant was overflowing on the driver side. the wheel well was soaked, so i only assume it was getting on the tire as well. at the time i figured the driver side wheel was getting coolant on it and when i got on the brakes it could have caused that tire to have less traction, thus pulling to the other side.

what i'm thinking is happening now, judging from this thread, is that around the crimp on the brake line there is so much pressure when i get on it hard that some fluid is escaping between the outer plastic and the braided steel thus making the driver side caliper not clamp as tight and pulling to the other side.

does that make sense?

it could also be toe/camber i suppose. i did my own alignment using the string method and it doesnt really feel like it pulls any direction on the highway and the tread is worn evenly. camber i havnt messed with. should be negative from a 1-3 inch drop on the ground controls though. i was under the impression camber would only come into effect under cornering and you wanted negative camber so that the tire would roll onto more tread rather than along the sidewall as much. </TD></TR></TABLE>

could be something with the line leaking yes, but it could also be, that since you were soaking your wheel you were likely getting it on the brakes too. Coolant is somewhat slimey too, so it is possible that for a bit you were actually not getting any or much bite on that wheel, while your passanger wheel was biting very hard, and thus to the right you go.

I too do the string method, but remember that certain toe adjustments affect your car certain ways under braking and what not. Theres a long thread on adjustments around here, but i'd fix the coolant and brake line first then try again

 

I had a Russell line completely break. Regardless to say, I had a lil skip in my heart.